St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    I know that SC does the made-to-order last adjusting program, but how do you derive the measurements/adjustments? Did you travel to Hawaii/LA to be measured/fitted?

    SC can do no wood pegged soles?

    They look truly amazing, especially the double row reverse welt stitching, and remind me of a pair of bespoke Delos boots posted somewhere online.
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    nope :nodding:
     


  3. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Well at least in the Anglo-American world of RTW shoes, Dover looks better than G&G Hove and JL Chambord in my opinion.
     


  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Unfortunately, this was done primarily by trial-and-error. Tom knows my feet pretty well simply by what I've ordered in the past, and our similarly sized and shaped feet. He was therefore able to help me choose the correct adjustments to the custom last. Furthermore, the first couple pair of SCs purchased pre custom last were not perfect fits, but allowed us to make logical choices regarding alterations (I'll probably be selling these BTW). I'm sure there is a more straight-forward way to do this.


    Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.


    Thanks!
     


  5. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Up late, or up early again my friend. Insomnia?
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2012


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    sounds awesome. how is the procedure? i can imagine that this generates some interested parties among the sf crowd.

    imo, this is the advantage of flexible units like e.g. St. Crispins.
     


  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    7 am is not insomnia :happy:
     


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    why?
     


  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Because those shoes are in Norwegian construction.

    [​IMG]

    The top-row of stitching goes through upper leather and insole. The upper leather is then folded out (it doesn't go underneath). The second row of stitching goes through the folded-out upper leather into the middle sole. Then the upper leather is cut-off to form the step that is quite visible in the photograph. On the bottom of the step is a third row of stitching, which connects the middle- with the outer sole. (Although it is possible the second row goes through middle- and outer sole and there is no third row. Difficult to see in the picture.) So you have at least two (if not three) rows of stitching to connect upper to bottom.

    The wood-pegged waist in St Crispin is in place of any stitching. The sole is stitched 'ball to ball' not 'breast to breast'. So the pegs are needed to provide a connection between sole and insole.
     


  10. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Regarding the stitching of the welt to the outsole which Posh seems to take issue with you can clearly see the machine they use for this process in the following video.



    In my opinion this does not diminish the quality of the final product one bit. They are still hand welted and that is the main point.
     


  11. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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  12. b1os

    b1os Senior member

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    This was just one of a few criticisms (mostly shortcuts used and some "carless mistakes"; and some misguiding phrasing on their website, esp. w/r/t the stitching). Anyway, I just posted the link so people can have a look at the "interior" of the shoe and form an opinion themselves, not to discredit St. C in any way.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2012


  13. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    Thanks guys!


    No (at least I did not ask for it). But they feel great!
     


  14. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    +1, totally agree. Great looking shoes by the way. I guess it is the classic last they used when adjusting for your foot?
     


  15. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    but that forces inversion/supination in your foot and that could lead to some serious foot problems.
     


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