St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[sdfzs]

While it is a hassel to have them sent back for a resole i look at this from a rather simple perspective. It’s after all shoes of a significant value made to last a lifetime with proper care

So, as I see it
Either you know a good cobbler already that makes half and full resoles of with quality material. They make them by volume and is comfortable making a hidden sole stitch. They are confident to make the sole stitch on a welt cut tight to the upper. When such cobbler turns the shoe and see a waist with wooden pegs you should see admiration in their eyes, not a surprise.

Or you don’t have such cobbler to your availability and then it’s likely a very expensive gamble that firstly might ruin your shoes and secondly will likely void any maker resole or rescue operation.

I spoke to Phil on his last trunk show in Stockholm and we casually touched on resoles and he showed me one of his pair brought with him as sample that has been subject to a resole. On the GE8 sole for the records and a half sole job. The seem between then original sole and the replacement piece was perfectly located on front of the pegged waist and also reinforced with additional pegging across the sole. A beautiful job really. I was unfortunately sloppy with the camera that day so no picture to be shared

 

[andreasky]

Hi, I found this picture of this gorgeous pair of split toe derby:

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Does anyone know the model name, the last, and the upper leather?

Does anyone own them to provide a feedback?

Thank you.

 

[sdfzs]

The model is clearly the 633, the last looks like classic and my best guess of leather would be INC 078. Perhaps the owner is here to correct

 

[andreasky]

Thank you!
What are the differences between Inca and Hatch grain leather?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thank you!
What are the differences between Inca and Hatch grain leather?

Having owned both, I can answer this for you. The difference is the grain pattern. The hatch is slightly less pronounced.. More streaky. The Inca is more pebbled.

The hatch leather will lighten at the creases, and where it is clipped or sratched. The Inca, due to it being pebbled comes off as more rugged (although not heavy), will remain largely as is.

 

[andreasky]

Thank you

Having owned both, I can answer this for you. The difference is the grain pattern. The hatch is slightly less pronounced.. More streaky. The Inca is more pebbled.

The hatch leather will lighten at the creases, and where it is clipped or sratched. The Inca, due to it being pebbled comes off as more rugged (although not heavy), will remain largely as is.

Thank you! Since you own Inca made shoes, is Inca as good as Scotch grain for rainy days?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

My apologies as I was referring to the Sienna grain.

Fortunately, I also own scotch grain.

I would say yes it is solid for rain, but the robustness of the scotch grain makes it superior to the Inca, from my experience. Now this doesn't mean the Inca is bad, but you can't go soaking your feet in water.

A simple brushing, conditioning will bring them back good as new.

 

[andreasky]

My apologies as I was referring to the Sienna grain.

Fortunately, I also own scotch grain.

I would say yes it is solid for rain, but the robustness of the scotch grain makes it superior to the Inca, from my experience. Now this doesn't mean the Inca is bad, but you can't go soaking your feet in water.

A simple brushing, conditioning will bring them back good as new.

Thank you for your helpful advise. In StC website there is also Mountain calf. Do you know about it? Is it as robust as Scotch grain?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thank you for your helpful advise. In StC website there is also Mountain calf. Do you know about it? Is it as robust as Scotch grain?

Sorry, that one I do not know first hand. I do have an Alpine grain which should be similar from Alden. If it is, it is thinner than the other two. It is a good all weather grain, since I have mines from Alden's all weather walker. Never had any issues, and is better than the Sienna in that it does not discolor.

 

[andreasky]

Sorry, that one I do not know first hand. I do have an Alpine grain which should be similar from Alden. If it is, it is thinner than the other two. It is a good all weather grain, since I have mines from Alden's all weather walker. Never had any issues, and is better than the Sienna in that it does not discolor.

Thank you. It seems from old posts that Alpine and Mountain are the same leather, but I need confirmation. Anyway what about creases in Alpine and Scotch grain?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Nothing out of the ordinary. I would say that the Alpine creases slightly more due to it being a thinner leather. That scotch grain I can say is quite the workhorse.

 

[ijustknow]

How do you guys like green for shoes?

It is a little unusual, but I find that this shade plays well with the lines of this pair.
Also pairs well with the burgundy-brown-ish color of the welt and sole.

View attachment 1242643

The answer is who doesn't

 

[sdfzs]

Thank you. It seems from old posts that Alpine and Mountain are the same leather, but I need confirmation. Anyway what about creases in Alpine and Scotch grain?

It's the same leather, have two pairs and in between the two the code/name changed. MOU 078 and ALP 078 are for example the same leather. I'd say it's thinner than INC or hatch grain but can take a proper beating without a doubt and is very sturdy. What appeals to me with ALP/MOU is the very fine grain structure that on the toe and heal gets stretched to a smooth leather when lasted. Got some snaps in my IG feed showing both @sdfzs (Model 620 derby in MOU 078 and Model 601 in ALP 076/Suede)

 

[deez shoes]

I definitely wasn't supposed to buy more shoes... ?‍♂️

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I definitely wasn't supposed to buy more shoes... ?‍♂️
View attachment 1251572 View attachment 1251573

The proverbial rabbit hole strikes again! That's why I always tell people to stick with one brand and one brand only. As soon as you take off the horse blinders, it is all downhill from there.