St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not a chance! However it is somewhat left field for me.
     


  2. JeffArmoury

    JeffArmoury Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    OK, so there is a bit of a misnomer here and it's probably my fault.

    Split is considered a dirty word in leather, but it's very common to split a hide to make suede - even in high-end shoe shoemaking. When I say split, I'm NOT referring to split grain leather, which is the bad stuff. That's where you strip away the nasty parts of the full grain leather to make it look nice and pretty.

    When creating Nubuck, since the leather needs to be pliable and the nap very fine, they use the grain side of a full grain hide and shave it a bit to create a fine, even texture. To keep it pliable, sometimes they will cut the flesh portion of the hide off. This is how Nubuck is most often created.

    Most other suede is created from the flesh or inner potion of the hide and is usually referred to as reverse suede.

    I hope that helps clarify it. Really it all comes down to if you are working with full grain leather in the first place.

    Jeff
     


  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    This is awesome. Thanks, Jeff.
     


  4. JeffArmoury

    JeffArmoury Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Hey Derek, no problem, let me know if you need any other pictures, I'm happy to help.

    J
     


  5. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Jeff - do you have photos of the other suede options?

    Kudu 76 brown looks nicest to me.
     


  6. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Exciting! I was just planning to look back through your pairs and the others from this thread for inspiration. I've been mulling over which new model to get. It's a good problem to have, but the over-abundance of choices proves to be an obstacle for me.

    My decision has changed a half dozen times over the last 2-3 months and I'm unable to just buy them all. I will say I saw this pair in an email from Drake's and it might be my new first choice.
    [​IMG]

    Particularly with the hand stitching and reverse toe details in @mclassic101 's pair [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I would have to find a subtle way to add croc to it though...

    [​IMG]

    This is my pair (photographed by the Armory) in KUD 076. They're a bit darker in normal light but I am extremely happy with them. They have proven to be my most comfortable pair thus far and my go-to weekend pair. Additionally, the surcharge for KUD was nominal in my opinion.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2014


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not to toot my own horn, well actually yes, to toot my own horn: I sent back some Saint Crispins to get resoled at their workshop and the main finishing guy was very impressed with my skills and inquired as to my methods and products. Just saying. :bigstar:
     


  8. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    He was impressed with your quick method of wearing down soles...? :hide:
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I love my shoes, therefore wear them well.
     


  10. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    That is admirable...
     


  11. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    I wore some of my dress shoes playing impromptu picked up basketball. True story.
     


  12. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Absolutely agree.

    I think I average ~6mi/wear. If they're not comfortable, they tear my feet up. I know there are limits to what's possible with any pair of shoes but, I try to find great looking shoes that are also comfortable. So far my St.C's have been it (with some relasting),and seeing how adjustments can be made to my future pairs, they can only get more comfortable.

    Now I just have to learn how to make them look as good as PB's :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2014


  13. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Yes, taking care of shuus does pay off. Why, just last week I was walking down the street, just generally minding my own business and particularly being myself, while this blue-eyed cherub of a lass yanked my arm and pointed at my footwear. I acknowledged her presence with a calm, "what?", and the girl said she had never seen such beautiful shoes as mine, and asked if I would be so kind as to ravish her and rid her of the shackles of virginity. Well, this was very kind of her and I inquired whether said act might affect the current fine state of my footwear. She assured me it would be sweet and painful, but my shrunken unborn baby kid calf leather brogues would retain their mirror polish. Thus, I agreed and off we went. Which was nice.
     


  14. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Exciting! I was just planning to look back through your pairs and the others from this thread for inspiration. I've been mulling over which new model to get. It's a good problem to have, but the over-abundance of choices proves to be an obstacle for me. My decision has changed a half dozen times over the last 2-3 months and I'm unable to just buy them all. I will say I saw this pair in an email from Drake's and it might be my new first choice.
    Particularly with the hand stitching and reverse toe details in @mclassic101 's pair [​IMG] Great choice I love to see this with a hand stitch apron ala EG Dover.
     


  15. mclassic101

    mclassic101 Affiliate Vendor

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    classic quarter brogue (mod. 503) we've done for a customer!
    Green double monk 505a arriving next week as well!

    VNA999
    Classic Last
    Black Sole with Metal Toe inlay

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


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