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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. madtown

    madtown Member

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    New shoes, 575's.

    [​IMG]
     


  2. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Even as an all black shoes owner I can't see the point in a model like a 575 in black. Has a bit of an identity crisis, imo.
     


  4. Xancatrius

    Xancatrius Senior member

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    Dear gents,

    I just got myself a pair of ST.Cs made up, and would like to know if you guys have any advice for me.

    I went to the Armoury in HK to get measured by Ethan (before he left) and had the shoes shipped to me in Singapore.

    The only reason I tried St C's was simply because of the pegged waist and extremely solid construction.

    You see, I originally was flatfooted, but due to in part I think the insoles and orthopaedics I have been wearing since young, the flat foot has somewhat been addressed. However the flesh has somewhat been forcibly pushed up to form an arch, and due to pronation of my feet, the foot always rolls inward.

    I had always been wearing at least a 7-7.5UK always, but Ethan said I have been wearing wrong sized shoes all my life, and suggested a size 6F. Trusting him I went with it

    The first outing was death for my feet. Absolute death. The cusp was so tight and it felt like I was wearing concrete shoes. I had to take them off after a while for fear of getting a pinched nerve or something, as it really felt that way.

    Ethan suggested that I get lace-ups because the laces would "hold the shoe up and prevent my foot from rolling too much"

    The problem is that lacing it up tight actually presses the top of the shoe down onto my instep.

    Into my 15th or 16th wear and it still hurts like hell all over. When I take my shoes off i can actually hear a "pop" sound like when you pull something out of a vacuum pack. It's that tight.

    Anybody had any similar experiences? I have a very bad feeling Ethan underestimated the actual size of my foot.

    This is the most pain I've been in wearing a pair of shoes and ironically, the most I ever spent on a pair of shoes. I went for the PRET last btw.
     


  5. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Dropping a size and a half seems drastic, but I haven't seen your feet and I've never measured anyone up for shoes before
     


  6. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    What shoes did you wear in UK7? Saint Cripsins have very stiff leather and very hard to break in if the fit isn't perfect.

    Didn't they have stock shoes for you to try on?
     


  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Cusp as in the toe area? Do you have toe wiggle room? Or the upper is pushed against the top of your toes?

    As to instep tightness, does it work for you if its not laced tightly?

    I am usually JL 9EE and G&G 9.5F/G. But I am PRET size 8.5G with extra 5mm width added around the whole small toe area, as measured and recommend by Mr Car.

    The result is not optimal; left and right toe is okay but ring toe is pressed against the edge of the toe and left ring toe is being pressed from the top by the upper.

    It does give me a feeling that the toe box length is not long enough while the arch length is very good.
     


  8. Xancatrius

    Xancatrius Senior member

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    7 in GG actually.

    The thing is I think my feet are somewhat weird, given how my toes arent flat, and somewhat curl up. This leads to the upper actually yes, pressing down on my toes, though i can very grudgingly say that there is toe wiggle room, though extremely minimal. And that only comes after i wear them for a while. Straight out of the shoe trees my left foot's toes are actually squashed in.

    My entire left little toe and the ball of the foot on the side of the little toe is constantly compressed, causing pain. Doesn't matter if im walking, standing or sitting. That issue is always there.

    If I don't lace my left shoe tightly, apart from the little toe, it's usually okay.

    If I lace my left shoe tightly, all hell breaks loose on my left foot.

    If I don't lace my right shoe tightly, the heel cup isn't secure and the heel of my foot ends up rubbing the upper part of the heel cup, causing a very dull pain.

    If I lace my right shoe tightly, the upper presses down onto my instep.

    Any ideas guys?

    I'd visit a trunk show but there are no St C retailers in Singapore. School/Work is an issue and I can rarely ever find time to head to Hong Kong. Even then, there is no guarantee I can go when the trunk shows happen and philip flies down to HK.

    When I told Ethan, he suggested conversing over email. However Ethan, experienced a fitter as he was, is now gone and I am not sure as to how good Alan or Jake are at handling fittings.
     


  9. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    One thing that could cause problem is lacing the shoes too tightly; upper lacing will be pressed hard against the veins on the back of your feet and making them swell, thus causing shoes to feel tighter than they actually are.
     


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think people that have issues wearing shoes isn't so much their sizing in a particular brand, but rather that they ruined their feet when they were younger shrouding them in plush environments all of their lives. I grew up wearing a lot of dress shoes and have no problems. I think it is just conditioning.
     


  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    ^+1

    Not only is the foot physically unprepared for the confinement and various rigidities, the mind itself expects foam...pillows, dancing girls, hookas, and peeled grapes...and gets reality.

    It's an unrealistic expectation and a poor (and unhealthy) standard of comfort.

    --
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Thank you for not posting more pictures of your bang up feet injuries!!

    I grew up wearing a lot of barefoot and have no problems with my bespokes shoes or gemmed shoes.

    The mind just expect shoes cause no pain on feet. Nothing much. Especially shoes fitted by the experts.
     


  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It's not just a question of pain although sometimes for feet accustomed to pillows, it is. It's a whole slew of aspects.

    For instance, I began my career making western boots. Made and wore boots for 35+ years before I started making shoes. First time I put on a pair of my own shoes they rubbed a hole in my sock and skin at the back of the heel, toot sweet. I got blisters, IOW. Why? Because the pull-on boot does not have a heel stiffener that cups the heel of the foot the way a shoe does. My feet were tender at the back of the heel. My feet, my skin, had to "cowboy up"--to toughen up. When they did, I never had another problem...period.

    Feet evolved to walk on rough and uneven terrain with no protection or covering. A "natural foot" would have probably a centimeter of callus on the bottom and sides of the foot.

    Feet that have spent most of their lives walking on marshmallows cannot immediately deal with, and do not expect the vicissitudes of a leather shoe.

    At bottom, the leather shoe is a form of armour to protect the foot from the worst of the environment. A running shoe is a form of swaddling.

    --
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014


  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Just saying. Can't blame the customer when their feet hurting from last adjusted shoes.

    Not hurting customers feet is and should be the common deniminator for proper shoe fit.
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    ^ +1

    All other things being equal, I couldn't agree more. But there are feet than cannot...for whatever reason ...ever be free of pain even with perfectly fitting shoes.
     


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