St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    As I've stated before, I do not have a personalized last though in hindsight I should've requested one.

    I relasted an existing RTW pair to my MTO last adjustement spec, making it shorter and wider but the details would be a clusterfuck to generalize and describe.

    True, and few realizes that different pattern and styles require different adjustments to shoe lasts.
     


  2. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    I was told at The Armoury that I should do a personal last because the normal last was too tight on the vamp for size 5.5F; I hope they're right.

    Do they do different sizing per foot for personal lasts? I think my right foot is bigger than my left one.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2014


  3. cgo

    cgo Senior member

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    Yes this is very true in that different type of shoes fit differently (eg oxford fits differently than derby and double monk)
     


  4. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I'm sure they can. I don't have a personalized last, just pret adjustments, but my right foot is shorter and wider, so Phillip started with a 10.5F for the left foot and a 10G for the right and made differing adjustments to each.
     


  5. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Sorry to hear you didn't get much from the process. I was aware there is a fee, but I didn't know how much. What I really need is just a little more space at the width of the foot. I'm hoping the re-last over the new added pieces does the trick.



    I really like now deep/dark of a burgundy these are! Have they always been like that or do you do anything specific to get that color?


    I wish I fit a standard last, but three pairs in and many many miles later, they're just not as comfortable as I would have hoped.:violin:
     


  6. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Saint Crispin's do a pretty good job of hand finishing, they came like that, my own polishing didn't change it too much.
     


  7. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Aside from the obvious too-shortness of the pants, poor quality alterations are on display here. The amount of material in the pants hem is too much - he's probably got about 4 inches of material folded back into the bottom of the pants, which gives them the stiffer more cylindrical barrel at the bottom of the pant, forcing the break higher up the leg into an unnatural position higher up than the ankle. Looks like crap. I had Saks alter some chinolinos and they did this (3-4 inches folded back inside the pant leg), with the same result. Even though the length was just right, the screwed up break looks like shit.* Had them redo it and remove the excess material. Way better outcome. So BOLO for this. Two inches or less comes out much better. * ...if you want to call it break. Basically going from softer and mishappen to stiffer and more cylindrical for the last 4 inches is what I'm refering to.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2014


  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    How dare you criticize the perfect Armoury NY folks? He must be saving those fabrics for the additional few inches of growth.
     


  9. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    I'm very indignant / irreverant to the SF idols. One of the reasons so many people want me banished.
     


  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    FIFY
     


  11. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    FWIY - the shoes he's got on are very nice...
     


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    I have the same (or similar) pair SC in storage, probably will be purged someday.
     


  13. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Wow! That is so cool!
     


  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  15. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    :)

    Let me fix this for you in SF form.
     


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