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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    Fantastic thread. Subscribed
    Am thinking about getting my first saint crispin

    Anyone had tried the deerskin lining? How's the experience? Softer, more comfortable?
     


  2. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Great combination...
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Depends on the tanning but deer skin is, generally speaking, more porous (picks up more dirt among other things) and more stretchy (not, in my opinion a good characteristic for lining).

    Is it softer...marginally so.
     


  4. madtown

    madtown Member

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    Hi guys,
    Just wondering what the current thought is on use of saddle soap for washing your shoes. Does everyone pretty much follow the instructions on Saint Crispin's site for shoe care?

    I've read some posts that say yes, some that say no. I'm getting my first pair of SC's soon and wondering what the people who already own them do. Thanks for your help/experience.
     


  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  6. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    Thanks this is very helpful


    May I ask why from your perspective? Thanks
     


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Because saddle soap is very alkaline ~ph of 9. Leathers protein fibers are ph of around 3-5. Introducing such an alkaline environment for leather will shift the protein fibers from ionic positive to ionic negative which will repel the tanning agents which are also ionic negative.
     


  8. Dan A

    Dan A New Member

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    I'm a PhD student in chemistry in a R1 program, and I'd just like to mention how careful you have to be with scientific concepts if you choose to use them. 1) Proteins don't intrinsically have pHs; they do have pI values associated with them 2) pH of 9 is not very basic. 3) I assume what you're getting at is that the the positively charged amino acids of the leather (namely lysine and arginine) form ionic bonds with tanning agents that are negatively charged, and saddle soap can convert them to anions. The flaw with your argument is that the pKa of lysine and arginine are around 10-12, which means that the solution must be greater than those 2 values. In addition, you need a far, far more basic solution to convert lysine and arginine to anions. The point I want to make is that there are no amino acids where the charges can go from negative -> neutral -> positive in the range of pH of 3 to 9.
     


  9. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Not saying either you or pbooth are right or wrong, but protein charge can indeed change easily with pH and is dependent on their pI. Not to mention denaturation. Let's move this discussion to the shoe care thread.
     


  10. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Exactly, protein fibers are amphoteric and take on the characteristics of either an acid or a base, when they are shifted ionic positive from the introduction of something above an isoelectric point of about a ph of 6 it begins to resist the fatliquors introduced during the tanning process, which are about a ph of about 5 and ionic negative.
     


  12. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    What the hell just happened
     


  13. MoosicPa

    MoosicPa Senior member

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    No idea....
     


  14. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    ...I don't know about you guys, but I think I'm getting some signs of heavy reflux with the occasional acid burp or two inbound.
     


  15. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    One more Q if you don't mind...between kudu suede, kid suede (goat) and janus suede (calf) what are the pros and cons?

    Thx
     


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