St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. Dr No

    Dr No Senior member

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    I think the photo from bengal showing 30 mm toe allowance is from JLP bespoke, and I do think they take that into consideration depending of style of toe.
     


  2. Dr No

    Dr No Senior member

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    No I didn't, but if I did the heel would be too wide and anyway the big toe hit the wall/front.
     


  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A length allowance in front of the toe is an absolutely essential part of a well-fitting shoe. Without it your foot would hit the front of the toe cap with every step. Your Cleverley, Lobb (Paris), Lobb (London) shoes will definitely have an empty space in front of the toes.

    The shoes would not fit otherwise.

    Up into the 1940s three (English) sizes ( 1” or 25 mm), would have been the standard for a ‘West-End’ shoe. These days two sizes (19 mm) is about the average.


    Yes, the necessary toe allowance does depend on the shape of the toe, as this illustration shows:
    [​IMG]

    You can do that very easily with a bespoke last as the length between heel and ball would not change, the ball of the last would correspond with the ball of your foot. (Just as some people of equal height have long waist (torso) and short legs and others have short waist/long legs; so do some people have a short, others a long back foot.) But if you size a ready-to-wear last either up or down the ball/heel length will change as all measurements will change proportionately.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2012


  4. Cornet

    Cornet Active Member

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    Seems like more toe allowance is necessary on the Lobb shoe in order to create a chiseled toe box. Without the extra allowance, the last would be square toed. Unless of course your feet are naturally chisel toed or pointy...
     


  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    My Vibram Five Fingers RTW running shoes has 0mm allowance, closer fit than your SC or bespokes. [​IMG]

    p.s., any fit pictures of your SC vs. JL SJ and JL P?

    Bengal S, thank you for taking your time in laying out this very informative post.

    What's the general guidance on where the top cap line should sit? At the bending point of the big toe or little toe? I do sometimes run into trouble with captoes where the same last in wingtip/plain toe fits great but in cap toe format, my little toe runs into/pressed by the toe cap stitch/stiffener during walking/bending.
     


  6. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Excellent observation! Happy New Year!
     


  7. PiedBeau

    PiedBeau Well-Known Member

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    Bespoke JM Weston ... ? :puzzled:
     


  8. PiedBeau

    PiedBeau Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Dec 31, 2012


  9. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Might be cause of the crazy chisel? Not too sure though I have very short wide feet (Woot Hobbit in Teh House!!!) and I must settle for the extra room; when I go bespoke I'll be sure to answer... [​IMG]...whenever that is :)
     


  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    no, and crazy chisel is not Delos's style.
     


  11. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    mod really need to merge this and the other SC thread...
     


  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  14. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Those were awesome, especially the shoe trees. Thanks.
     


  15. ELG

    ELG Senior member

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    So pretty.
     


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