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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. meister

    meister Senior member

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    QED. I honestly reckon those and the pics below on the same page are of some of the best looking shoes I have seen on SF and that's talking as a total shoe tragic BTW. The patina and lasts and semi Bestetti toe treatment are just a knock out. I have been thinking of taking a holiday in Hawaii where I have not been for years but on second thoughts that could lead to rapid bankruptcy.
    There is no way a crease should be forming half an inch into the toecap. They are at least a full size too big IMO. Sorry to spoli your day but you paid a lot for those shoes.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2012


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    That's Ethan Desu. He likely did not pay for those shoes. Strange that there is creasing on the toe cap.
     


  3. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    After reading some of the sizing advice from the last couple of days-to size down one- i became worried that i had sized incorrectly with my 104 utility boots (same as ezlau's fit pic). So then earlit this evening, I tried them on again and the fit is perfect. They are marked UK11.5F and I'm a tts12D. Snug and comfortable throughout. A little extra room at the tip but nothing major
     


  4. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    This is hot as f*ck! No spoil pics on this baby.
     


  5. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    ^ I know right? Surprised how good they look with denim, especially a pair that straddles dad jeans in color
     


  6. PiedBeau

    PiedBeau Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your concern but the person in this picture isn't me, it's one of the guy from The Armoury.
     


  7. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    ezlau, I agree with all the others, your pair is an absolute winner.
    Not only is the style of your pair fantastic but it also seems to fit you very nicely.
     


  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do not know if Saint Crispin or Philip Car believe a toe allowance (the empty space between the end of the toes and the end of the shoe) as short as 1/4” (6 mm) to be a good fit, but to me this is extremely short and likely to cause a sub-optimal fit (resulting in grown-in toe nails and bunions) .

    Here is the other extreme, a fitting by Lobb, Paris with a toe allowance in excess of 30 mm

    [​IMG]

    Here is the full photo feature

    http://openers.jp/fashion/fashion_special/photo_tokyo_elements10.html

    and here the discussion in this forum a few years back

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/61535/photos-of-jlp-bespoke-fitting

    Too short and too wide is also the most likely explanation for the crease forming within the toe cap here.


    The end of the (relatively long) toe cap exceeds the point where the toes bend which is in turn defined by the position of the ball line. The length from ball to heel is one of the most important measurements in shoe fitting.

    Presumably like all things in life, the golden rule is moderation, which would be a toe allowance of somewhere between 16 – 22 mm. If you are happy with 6 mm toe allowance, good for you. But it’s really not something one “should try at home”.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2012


  9. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Awesome

    Gorgeous looking boots and they go really well with those jeans.

    Well done.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2012


  10. Dr No

    Dr No Senior member

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    I agree with bengal here, the creasing on toecap is due to a short shoe and the ball is too far front in the shoe.
    The creasing is likely also due to width and leather or lasting issue.
    Optimally it should not crease like that.
    The reason a shorter toe allowance works withSC is the higher toe box a la eastern europe, in a JLP or other more low last, the toe would hit the roof/ front much earlier.
    The key is to have your ball of the foot and the shoe ball to align.
     


  11. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    yes,
    the st crispin little big on man here.
    it not matter,
    it rtw,
    rtw fit funny and play many trick
    to big shoe sometimes happen in this case.
    it fit him good so it good. :slayer:
     


  12. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    To me the explanation of bengal stripes makes more sense.
    Why should a shoe which is too long crease in the toe box, afterall there is nothing in there which could bend.
     


  13. Dr No

    Dr No Senior member

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    Thats what I said
     


  14. Dr No

    Dr No Senior member

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    I tried the 1/2 sizing down. It didnt work, sqeezed my toes to death!
     


  15. Dr No

    Dr No Senior member

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    Well toe allowance must depend on last toe shape. A pointier last must have allowance, whereas a rounded last could work with shorter allowance.
     


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