1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    I would be so pissed if the vamp of my shoes was made of "fat wrinkles"...

    It's like going to one of the best steakhouses in New York...ordering a Ribeye...and getting a plate full of fat trimmings and gristle! A $1700 plate!
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2014
  2. NickInTO

    NickInTO Senior member

    Messages:
    438
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2013
    Location:
    Toronto
    Didn't see this answered - I interviewed Phillip Car for a tv piece once, he told me the reason they decided to produce the shoes in Romania is because it'ss one of the few countries that still has existing schools for shoemakers.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    It's also cause they can pay them next to nothing...
     
  4. Farhad19620

    Farhad19620 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,109
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2007
    Location:
    UK
    I have listed these for sale in the SC anyone interested please send me an email, I have just never had a chance to wear these. [​IMG]
     
  5. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

    Messages:
    1,630
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    Location:
    right here, for now
    now Ian . . . . don't be so harsh. the man is clearly more intelligent & 'better' than the rest of us,
    particularly if you are a stoopid amerikan. let go of the rope, sit back and allow Geronimo the opportunity to
    school us on class or conduct one or just perform a mental masturbation dance

    either way, grab your popcorn, watch the show
    . . . . s/he'll tell us everything we need to know in due time. suggestion over now
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

    Messages:
    794
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Thanks for keeping me in check @SoGent

    Popcorn in hand :lurk:
     
  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,241
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    As a general rule, yes. But I've seen smaller skins with fat wrinkles...depends on the animal. The moment the animal is up and moving around (after birth) fat wrinkles begin to set in as the neck and shoulder are moved. Short of what Thornton termed "milk calf" I suspect that the leather derived from any grazing animal...at any age...will have some degree of fat wrinkling.

    Now having said that, I reiterate...best practices dictates that the vamps be cut from the prime areas, which, again amount to only a third of the hide not including the shoulder.

    So, it begs the question, doesn't it? If one pair of vamps is cut from the kidney area (prime) and another pair (or two) is cut from marginal leather, does a maker charge less for shoes made from non-prime areas such as the shoulder? Do they make it clear to the customer?

    To be fair, shoulder isn't necessarily waste. If I were making a pair of shoes for knock-around usage, for myself, I wouldn't hesitate to use carefully inspected shoulder for the quarters and maybe even the vamps. For instance, I have some left over Annonay French Calf that has already had a prime cutting removed--a pair of clear, pristine vamps for whole cut oxfords. What's left is over the rib cage and in the shoulder and does have fat wrinkles, but is otherwise pretty good quality leather.

    Personally, I don't think I could, in good conscience, even offer that leather to the customer...much less charge him like it was prime. But seeing as how I paid exactly the same dollars per square foot for the shoulder as the butt I am not going to throw it away either. I'll use it...if only for fitter's models.

    Of course cutting for maximum usage of the hide (regardless of quality) is common practice in all factory work. The marginal leather is paid for at the same rate as the prime. And throwing leather away is exactly the same as throwing money away. You can't afford to do that when you're trying to maximize profit and keep prices competitive with other makers who occupy the same niche.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
    2 people like this.
  8. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

    Messages:
    757
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011

    You can ask them to lay some heavy antiquing on it and it will be much darker...I chose that route.
     
  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,995
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    To be honest, I think virtually all well-known brands will not use only prime parts for their RTW or MTO shoes.
     
  10. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

    Messages:
    579
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Received these yesterday :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  11. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2011
  12. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

    Messages:
    8,333
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Location:
    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Those are beautiful @gusvs , congrats!
     
  13. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

    Messages:
    579
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    



    Thanks guys! I'm very satisfied with how they came out!
     
  14. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

    Messages:
    468
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2012
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Yes of course you are correct. It was meant to be a kind of joke. For me the St.C's will be much nicer than my existing collection (to include some MTOs I'm still waiting for) so it's easy to think I should just offload everything else and make them the new standard. I'll try to hold out until I receive my first order before ordering anymore, maybe.
    Thank you. So did you order a pair in 611 and ask for the antiquing or did you just mention wanting a final color and let them decide how to provide it for you? Also would you mind linking me to a photo of it?
     
  15. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    Very cool combination!!!
     
  16. meister

    meister Senior member

    Messages:
    7,321
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    beautiful loafers! Love the mild spade sole.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014
  17. Dagon

    Dagon Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Great smoky brown colour.
     
  18. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    Those are very elegant loafers...I really like the hand stitching and contrast stitching of the apron...I like that apron in general...and the shape of the last is very good for that loafer.

    Is it the classic last?

    I would buy those shoes...
     
  19. Farhad19620

    Farhad19620 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,109
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2007
    Location:
    UK
    


    Thank you Giannni, the only problem buying these makes of shoes is when it comes to selling them no one wants to know! Not like my JL, EG or C&J which sell within minutes! LOL
     
  20. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    Yesterday I had not seen ... I'm really beautiful and I like the proportions much.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by