SSDS "stolen," decision time

[DGP]

So my younger bro was visiting me and spilled beer all over his jeans. He needed another pair, and I offered up my SSDS. Well, big mistake. He'd never had premium jeans before, and said they were the best he'd ever tried. They looked so damn good on him that I told him that if he promised to wear the **** out of them, he could "adopt" them (they'd faded a bit too much for my liking anyhow, without getting any contrast).

So here's the problem: what replacement? I have two pairs of Acne Mic Ridgid, one dressy, one project. I also have RRDS, worn just as knock around jeans. Right now, I am thinking about either another SSDS or KMW 1980. I can't decide which. On the KMW, I absolutely love the denim. However, I like the color on the Nudies a little more. Since I have the Mic ******** up in the wash as a project, these will be left dark. The 32x34 KMW I tried on recently fit perfectly, meaning a 31 would fit perfectly after a week or so. Here's where I'm at:

KMW pros:

Amazing denim
Minimalist design
Darn nice construction
Not everyone's wearing it
Fit through the thigh

KMW cons:

Not quite as dark as I'd like
Back pockets a little low for my liking
Nobody wears it

Nudie pros:

One of the "it" brands right now
Great fit on the SS
Great dark indigo
Fit is not too tight, not too slim, and the shape makes them dressy or casual

Nudie cons:

One of the "it" brands right now
Gaudy stitching on the back pockets takes away from dressiness
Denim just doesn't feel as nice as KMW

I think it has to be one of the two, as I just don't find too many jeans that fit me well. I was at Ron Herman at Fred Segal this weekend and tried on all kinds of jeans and looked at others. I didn't love Jean Shop, nor was I a fan of the other Acnes they showed me. Nothing special about the ES in their stock, and the PRPS weren't really my thing. I also tried the Even Steven, and found the pockets wayyy too low. They didn't have much in Nudie at the time, but interestingly enough, very little of their denim was dry. Maybe a sign of things to come, but I digress.

I'm leaning towards the Nudies because I'll admit I'm a bit more of a fashion head than a denim head, but the quality of the KMW just impressed me so much. I'm sure I'll get people on both sides, and that's exactly what I want, but I just want to hear people's thoughts on the good and bad points of each jean.

I may be indecisive about my jeans, but I am now sure of two things: Rag and Bone needs to make a 31x34, and never loan my brother anything again.

 

[drizzt3117]

I'd get KMW1980 or 5EP LDB Rigid personally. I love my SSDS after they've been tailored but out of the box they are way too loose below the knee IMO.

 

[DGP]

Originally Posted by drizzt3117

I'd get KMW1980 or 5EP LDB Rigid personally. I love my SSDS after they've been tailored but out of the box they are way too loose below the knee IMO.

Yea, my last pair was a bit big below the knee, now that you mention it. I just figured part of that would be corrected by having them tailored. It's too bad that the new Even Steven has such low pockets. That blue/black wash would have been perfect!

 

[afaludi]

i got both and i gotta say go with the 1980s true to size, they just feel so good and the fit is perfect. If you can get over the flashy selvege coin pocket and huge pockets sitting low (compared to the SSDS) your great.

 

[DGP]

Originally Posted by afaludi

i got both and i gotta say go with the 1980s true to size, they just feel so good and the fit is perfect. If you can get over the flashy selvege coin pocket and huge pockets sitting low (compared to the SSDS) your great.

The only thing I really can't get over is how hard it is to dress those pockets up.

 

[Maharlika]

I would go for the KMW. Can't beat that Zimbabwean cotton and natural indigo dye. I have the Rockrr and really liking it a lot. I like that it still has some 'novelty' like 45 rpm Jomon and not everyone has it.

 

[tljenkin]

That was really kind of you to give your Svens to your bro.

If you are concerned about enough people not having thhe KMW, it seems to me that a lot of people are starting to show interest in them thanks to hype from all of our normal distributors, as well as LA Guy. If you'd like something that you could dress up a bit more than a pair of Nudies, you could always get a pair of Flat Heads or Samurai's with the back pocket stitching removed by Gordon. The Sams are the only pair of jeans I have owned that felt completely natural on a bike and a fancy restaurant. Eternals are also a nice bet if the inseam isn't restrictive. Good luck.

 

[KennyGhetzoff]

I'm wrestling with the same questions: KMW or Nudie....

I think I'm gonna do Nudie and remove the stitching on the back to quiet them down some. Nudie just seems to fit me the best though I haven't been able to try on KMW yet.

 

[DGP]

Originally Posted by tljenkin

you could always get a pair of Flat Heads or Samurai's with the back pocket stitching removed by Gordon. The Sams are the only pair of jeans I have owned that felt completely natural on a bike and a fancy restaurant. Eternals are also a nice bet if the inseam isn't restrictive. Good luck.

At these prices, I really, really don't want to go with STF. I am not the denim purist that some are, and I don't want to risk having to go through one pair and then not get the right size until pair number two. So I think I prefer to stick to American and European brands (though I'm delighted by Japanese denim).

 

[drizzt3117]

Originally Posted by DGP

At these prices, I really, really don't want to go with STF. I am not the denim purist that some are, and I don't want to risk having to go through one pair and then not get the right size until pair number two. So I think I prefer to stick to American and European brands (though I'm delighted by Japanese denim).

Honestly @ $150 I think 5EP LDB Raw is a no brainer, although I do very much like the look of the KMW 1980. SDA-103 one wash would also fit your bill more or less perfectly.

 

[Bona Drag]

+1

I'd be up to my ears in 5EP if they made the damn things in my size.

To cloud the issue, however, I'd say that if dressing them up is important to you, I'd get the Nudies and just take out the stitiching.

For me, KMW wins both in terms of fit and denim/construction quality (disclosure: got a pair in the mail now), but I agree with re: the pockets. For me, that's not really an issue, but it sounds like a big deal to you. If the blousiness below the knee doesn't bother you, I think you're better off with the SSDS.

To further cloud the issue, imo Nudie fades nicer than many brands that use "better" denim...

 

[drizzt3117]

Originally Posted by Bona Drag

+1 I'd be up to my ears in 5EP if they made the damn things in my size. To cloud the issue, however, I'd say that if dressing them up is important to you, I'd get the Nudies and just take out the stitiching. For me, KMW wins both in terms of fit and denim/construction quality (disclosure: got a pair in the mail now), but I agree with re: the pockets. For me, that's not really an issue, but it sounds like a big deal to you. If the blousiness below the knee doesn't bother you, I think you're better off with the SSDS. To further cloud the issue, imo Nudie fades nicer than many brands that use "better" denim...
The issue I have with the nudies is that the contrast stitching makes them less dressy as well, along with the big, low pockets. This doesn't obviate me from using them in dressy situations anyways, but I had to have mine tailored and if I had known it would have taken all that effort I would have gone a different route, I think.

 

[DGP]

Originally Posted by drizzt3117

Honestly @ $150 I think 5EP LDB Raw is a no brainer, although I do very much like the look of the KMW 1980. SDA-103 one wash would also fit your bill more or less perfectly.

Yes, I'll have to look around LA to see where I might be able to try some of these, as everyone here seems to be in love with the quality and fit. I happen to really like resin coated jeans, a la RB, so I might have to look out for those.

 

[drizzt3117]

Originally Posted by DGP

Yes, I'll have to look around LA to see where I might be able to try some of these, as everyone here seems to be in love with the quality and fit. I happen to really like resin coated jeans, a la RB, so I might have to look out for those.

Well in that case you might like the LDB in resin more. Personally I like the deeper blue w/o greycast of the 5EPs in raw, but the 5EP resin is extremely nice as well, but fades substantially less and a bit differently. This might be a good choice for you for a dressy jean that stays dark. As I'd mentioned to someone else before, this might be a jean that you might want to take a chance on at $150 sight unseen because it seems very easy to resell them for what you paid in any case. I've resold two pairs of 5EPs in a matter of days so far.

 

[Bona Drag]

Originally Posted by drizzt3117

The issue I have with the nudies is that the contrast stitching makes them less dressy as well, along with the big, low pockets. This doesn't obviate me from using them in dressy situations anyways, but I had to have mine tailored and if I had known it would have taken all that effort I would have gone a different route, I think.

Agree on both points; I was confused - I thought DGP was implying that SSDS don't have big, low pockets, and were thus dressier (I don't own any Nudie). If they're not inherently dressier, KMW wins hands down.

I'd stay on that 5EP tip tho...