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SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Umit always good.

    What's with raf and shorts? isn't this the 3rd or 4th season with a disproportionate amount of them?
     
  2. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

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    What didn't you like about Raf? I don't think it was his all-time high or anything, but it seems well executed and in line with his recent offerings.


    To me it seems like a callback to the school uniform inspired stuff he did in the 90s.

    Or maybe it's just a token concession to the fact that it's a spring/summer show.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  3. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    And the square toes.

    I was the first to defend (still do) the last collection but this I don't know man. There are some interesting stuff in there, stuff that calls back to the early collections but it's marred by all the flashy colors and the prints and... Not to beat a dead horse but this is so slick to the point of being sterile, maybe that's the industrial designer in Raf. On the topic of shorts and school uniforms, Fall 2012 (which I grew to really like) offered a much more convincing interpretation.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  4. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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    raf seems to have stopped caring about his own line some while ago
    just seems like children playing dressup in boxers and parents' shirts

    so much on the last page all just looked the same, scrolling up and down quickly i couldn't tell the collections apart.

    i hear plockhov holds promise this year
     
  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Umit direction is a natural fit for him and given current events, delivers some semblance of meaning beyond just formal shapes or shock value.

    the chunky loafers are kinda fugly, but I like the idea. some kind of velvet slipper would be cool with that tunic-under-suit thing.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  6. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    stop being so blasé





    The masks are a stroke of genius, they manage to imbue the collection with fantasy while anchoring it in reality at the same time.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    The video of the umit show is great. Turkish music playing as those masks walk toward you is perfect. Turkey is also kinda the ideal inspiration for east-meets-west. Thought it all worked really well together.

    Z, there must be something you're excited about other than Yohji, no? I'm really curious to see if Boris stays on this slightly more polished course. I really liked fall and would love to see the grungy urban warrior costume stay away!
     
  8. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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    yup i think i mentioned to you there are a couple kids that were asked to go show in paris, though it's not on the schedule here. let's see how that pans out.

    i thought ann ss13 was a disaster but she came back in full glory for fall so i have high hopes. dries as well.
    really interested to see what marvielab does, summer collections are usually great. i almost went to the GBS show, it's private but they're so nice to let anyone in really, even blasé stragglers like myself. he's a bit eccentric and politicized but i am really fond of his work. and, in contrast to the article you linked, it really echoes with an earlier era placing the wearer there. same with PH which is on the hype train express.

    boris had a very interesting and solid collection few shows back, it got a bit too caught up in the current mood for my tastes but who knows, he does weird things. speaking of fabrics and treatments, i think he did great work with the translucent leather, as disgusting as it was. maybe these fellows should look more to hire materials scientists.

    goes without saying but CCP collection is on the horizon (if you ask when it comes out, "we're working on it" is the reply you get hehe) and i expect nothing but horrifying abstractions and nightmares materialized.

    edit: i forgot to add missoni, i liked that one :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  9. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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  10. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    All four of those guys would get crucified in WAYWT

    edit - wait was that the point of the second video? [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  11. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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    [​IMG] (* don't worry i don't think this work was such paradigm shift as it's portrayed but certain libs/academics i just thought of it seeing the show -- reminded me of old illustrations from euro painters having traveled eastward)

    i still liked the collection, longer blazers with kurtas = what former user the shah, RIP, would have worn :cool:
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  12. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Umit is Turkish and grew up mostly in Istanbul. Do you think he's guilty of exoticism in this case? He's not really an outsider with a fantasy of the east.

    Edit: not being argumentative, just wondering
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  13. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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    Would really depend on where in Istanbul and in what kind of family, so without assuming anything I don"t think he is, but I think those that embrace his fantasies and parade him [and good work] around like a peacock, along with those who consume, are. But then again that's the entirety of fashion, in a matter of speaking :p

    On the other hand, and this may be politicizing, but given the state of Turkish society, I think this may be a more a dream of memories past, and being an antiquarian myself, I appreciate it even more.

    Either way, ignoring Said, I think this is a much better approach than, say, Thamanyah.

    Edit: I know, you're too kind to be argumentative hehe ;-)
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  14. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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  15. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    The video I watched of his show started with an interview where he talked about exactly this. It was a nostalgic, and probably romanticized, view of Turkey.

    Rick was a snooze. I think it was about showing off the sneakers.
     
  16. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    rick show was literally the 3 same designs shown over and over again
     
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  17. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    he's taking queues from Raf
     
  18. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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    seems many are turning to short shorts for this paris showing

    Ann's Vineyards, the show collection seemed nice, not as dramatic a return to her former self (as seen by my inexperienced eyes) as FW13 but better than what was shown this time last year. some of the candy stripes etc were silly but i guess that was her intent.

    cutaways galore, hello pppp :)
    this first one is so victorian i love it

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  19. zapatiste

    zapatiste Senior member

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    Dries florals :inlove:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    * last one is ss93 , really floral 20 years ago
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2013
    7 people like this.
  20. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    excerpt from cathy horyn's appreciation of raf. i could be totally off, but I feel fairly certain this first sentence isn't true. can't imagine a 16-year-old, "fashion boy" or not, connecting with these clothes. but who knows, maybe cathy horyn knows a lot of 16-year-olds.

    http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/06/27/raf-simons-who-do-we-respect/

    feel like ann, dries, and yohji are all good but not great. all the collections are like extensions of previous work, which isn't a bad thing. it's good for designers to develop ideas over a longer period of time than a single season. but, as a result, there's no shock of the new, so to speak. i do really like the cream/beige looks from yohji and will be anxiously waiting to see some of the fabrics up close. I like a bunch of the footwear and coats from ann. with dries, the silhouettes and proportions are great as always, but the prints are too much for me. always happy to see new collections though. still plenty coming too!
     
    1 person likes this.

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