SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    

    It just feels like a mishmash of ideas --none of which are fully developed -- pulling the collection in different directions, she's been pushing prints for the last few collections and it always feel like an afterthought.



    It's in no way not a radical departure from the previous Zegna collections but it's great to see Pilati bringing the subtlety and refinement (and color palette) from his best YSL years (mainly FW07, SS08, FW10, SS11, FW11, SS12) to the label.



    Hackermann = Damir x Hefner

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2013


  2. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

    Messages:
    8,474
    Likes Received:
    10,352
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Location:
    Canada
    Hackermann = Damir x Hefner

    :laugh:
     


  3. 1969

    1969 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,712
    Likes Received:
    991
    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    MH appeals to the uniformist in me. Also, I wish it was easier to find pants cut like this

    [​IMG]
     


  4. futuresailors

    futuresailors Senior member

    Messages:
    626
    Likes Received:
    1,183
    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2012


  5. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

    Messages:
    5,358
    Likes Received:
    4,431
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    It's never been on the runway
     


  6. lmaozedong

    lmaozedong Senior member

    Messages:
    3,457
    Likes Received:
    4,048
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    I bought a ton of MHL one year and none of it fit me--it felt like everything was falling off of my body, and not in a cool, slouchy, way, but in a six-sizes-too-big kind of way. I wish I was big and tall like sipang so that I could wear all Margaret Howell all day. Same with Oliver Spencer, it's pretty tragic.

    Kolor and Zegna are both great. Obviously, everyone's doing prints these days, but those two shows hit the sweet spot for the right mix of prints.
     


  7. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    The first part of Tim Blanks's review of the E Zegna show: "There was something so languid about Stefano Pilati's first outfit in his debut show for Ermenegildo Zegna today—the casually closed, double-breasted jacket, the light topcoat—that it could only feel like a manifesto. Almost confrontational, in fact. The suits that followed were broken—jackets and trousers not matched, reflecting Pilati's conviction that a man whose closet is filled with suits isn't about to wear them as convention dictates. The proportions—the long jacket, the placement of the notch on the lapel, the high button—were equally discombobulating. But that is something that Pilati has always excelled at. He reconceptualizes the familiar. So he rolled and tied and slung the heart of Zegna into something that married today and tomorrow." http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014MEN-EZEGNA
     


  8. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

    Messages:
    8,474
    Likes Received:
    10,352
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Location:
    Canada
    I'm going to have to go against the grain and start some controversy. I didn't like mhl.
    I like the idea of smocks and trousers but more in a raeburn/techy way. That looks like Eddie Bauer (sub shah)
     


  9. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

    Messages:
    8,474
    Likes Received:
    10,352
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Location:
    Canada
    I'm going to have to go against the grain and start some controversy. I didn't like mhl.
    I like the idea of smocks and trousers but more in a raeburn/techy way. That looks like Eddie Bauer (sub shah)
     


  10. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

    Messages:
    8,474
    Likes Received:
    10,352
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Location:
    Canada
    Lol , the quadruple post shows how controversial I am :D
     


  11. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009

    MILAN MENSWEAR 23/06

    MARNI Posting for the ponchocoats [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] MISSONI Feels a bit more classic and less sportswear than the previous collections, color palette is fantastic as always. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] PRADA Prada Sleazy/Seedy 2014. Weird shit. I quite like the 90s volumes, dropped shoulders, wide trousers + fitted jackets. Prada being Prada this is high concept stuff, something similar delivered by a lesser/gaudier label would've no doubt fared much worse. Then again, it probably wouldn't be all that similar. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013


  12. Cyber7Punk

    Cyber7Punk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    76
    Likes Received:
    61
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
    EZegna and ZZegna by far the best collections for me

    I think Pilati should try it with a own label and hit the avant garde road![​IMG]
    Remember the collection he did for atelier NY
     


  13. LTTP

    LTTP Senior member

    Messages:
    159
    Likes Received:
    58
    Joined:
    May 3, 2012
    It's also going to be in Paris. ;)
     


  14. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

    Messages:
    2,343
    Likes Received:
    3,851
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Ziggy Chen, Song for the Mute pics can be found here. Ziggy Chen seems cool from the pics so far.
     


  15. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    some relevant reading. more interested in kolor after reading this. would love to have a look at some of it in person.

    "One designer who has always exemplified this East-West tradeoff in his work is Junichi Abe, the man behind the brand Kolor, Pitti Uomo’s guest menswear designer for SS14. Abe’s schooling at BUNKA college in Tokyo and the years spent behind the scenes at Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe have distilled an inherent sense of the avant-garde in his work – albeit one that shines through in construction and fabrication rather than superfluous embellishment and wild asymmetries.
    ...
    "'His design and his concept of fashion is about the design itself – he’s not one of these designers who draws his inspiration from an era, or a feather or an object or a movement. It’s all about how he starts developing fabrics. He makes the fabrics himself, he develops new ways of putting two threads together that don’t belong together. He manipulates polyester into silk, boils it, to make totally new textures”. An ice blue mackintosh that billowed out behind its wearer highlighted this technique, as did blazers ruched down the front and sleeves. “His work is all in the details. Like the nylon trench”, continued Hetta “it’s a fabric that is never used for clothing, and it is shrunk from three times the size to create the scrunched effect. For me as a stylist today, I see there are some designers who are more like stylists – picking a reference from an era and a look then mixing it and matching it together. What Junichi does is very ‘inclusive’ design – maybe you don’t need to wear a total look of Kolor, but I think men out there just want to see something that isn’t forcing you into an era or an idea or a mood, but something that is technically well done as a garment.'"
    http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/2820/Kolor_at_Pitti_Uomo_2014
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by