SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN

[sipang]

LONDON MENSWEAR 15/06 -18/06

Done
MILAN MENSWEAR 22/06 - 25/06

22/06 - 10:30 • Ermenegildo Zegna 22/06 - 16:00 • Jil Sander 23/06 - 09:30 • Bottega Veneta 23/06 - 10:30 • Trussardi 23/06 - 11:30 • Iceberg 23/06 - 13:45 • Marni 23/06 - 14:00 • Calvin Klein Collection 23/06 - 15:00 • Vivienne Westwood 23/06 - 16:00 • Missoni 23/06 - 18:00 • Prada 23/06 - 19:00 • Moncler Gamme Bleu 24/06 - 14:00 • Etro 24/06 - 17:00 • Umit Benan 25/06 - 10:30 • Giorgio Armani 25/06- 12:30 • Z Zegna
PARIS MENSWEAR 26/06 - 30/06

26/06 - 12:30 • Julius 26/06 - 13:30 • Julien David 26/06 - 15:30 • John Lawrence Sullivan 26/06 - 16:30 • Walter Van Beirendonck 26/06 - 18:30 • Haider Ackermann 26/06 - 20:30 • Raf Simons 27/06 - 11:30 • Issey Miyake 27/06 - 12:30 • Rick Owens 27/06 - 12:45 • Jean Paul Gaultier 27/06 - 16:30 • 22/4 - Menswear 27/06 - 17:30 • Yohji Yamamoto 27/06 - 19:00 • Dries Van Noten 28/06 - 10:00 • Junya Watanabe 28/06 - 11:00 • Ann Demeulemeester 28/06 - 12:00 • Maison Martin Margiela 28/06 - 12:45 • ACNE 28/06 - 13:00 • Henrik Vibskov 28/06 - 14:00 • Juun J 28/06 - 15:00 • KRISVANASSCHE 28/06 - 16:00 • Cerruti 28/06 - 17:00 • Comme des Garcons 28/06 - 18:00 • Givenchy 29/06 - 11:00 • Atelier Gustavolins 29/06 - 11:45 • Sacai 29/06 - 12:00 • Songzio 29/06 - 13:00 • Tillman Lauterbach 29/06 - 15:00 • Dior Homme 29/06 - 16:00 • Boris Bidjan Saberi 29/06 - 18:00 • Miharayasuhiro 29/06 - 19:00 • Damir Doma 29/06 - 20:00 • Hermes 30/06 - 11:00 • Lanvin 30/06 - 12:00 • Agnés B 30/06 - 12:45 • Christophe Lemaire 30/06 - 18:00 • Thom Browne 30/06 - 20:00 • Saint Laurent

 

[sipang]

LONDON MENSWEAR 15/06 -18/06

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LONDON--Looking past the awful ****, the Prorsum biting Prada (nice color blocking tho), the dummies bandwagoning the Givenchy trainwreck, the generic #menswears, the browear Damir-lite, the Tom Ford, the "let's add some random piece of fabric on a shoddy design and call it avant-garde" , . .

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Not a fan of the prints overload mid-show or some of the weird tailoring after that but those first few layered looks are great.

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

LEE ROACH

SHAUN SAMSON The collection as a whole is pretty ****, I save the overalls, the oversize and the platform vans.

MARTINE ROSE Never disappoints.

OLIVER SPENCER

E. TAUTZ Can't help but feel the collection is somewhat connected to the #menswear appropriation of experimental layering and ethnic garments but the E.Tautz guy looks like he's having fun with his last few collections

MARGARET HOWELL Great volumes & color palette. Boring done great. SW&D needs more Margaret Howell.

 

[ManofKent]

I like some of the Christopher Raeburn stuff. The Margaret Howell is as you say boring, done well. Oliver Spencer is completely inoffensive, but could be from last year or the year before.

 

[dwyhajlo]

Is that a Haider Ackermann menswear presentation I see on the Paris schedule?

 

[sipang]

yes yes

Look who’s joining men’s fashion week in Paris: Haider Ackermann. The Antwerp, Belgium-based designer, who won acclaim for a one-season foray into men’s wear in 2010, is to present what he’s calling a “men wardrobe” for spring 2014 on June 26. Details about the presentation format could not immediately be learned.

Ackermann unveiled his first men’s designs during a coed runway show at Pitti W in Florence, and the collection was immediately picked up by a small group of international retailers, including Barneys New York. The Colombian-born talent founded his label in 2001 and is known for sensual draping and nomadic silhouettes.

 

[Parker]

Like the Margaret Howell. Giving me a 90s vibe (nttawwt).

 

[LTTP]

The funny thing about astrid anderson/man/jw anderson is how... boring it is.



The spencer hart collection had some nice moments. nothing groundbreaking, but a pleasant summation of the casual-loose aesthetic floating around the fashion world right now. Would fit nicely in the 'blazers and suits' thread:

http://thefashionisto.com/spencer-hart-springsummer-2014-london-collections-men/

 

[sipang]

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 19/06 - 20/06

KOLOR Dries vibes

 

[sipang]

MILAN MENSWEAR 22/06

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Good fit for Pilati

JIL SANDER As unfair as it might be, Raf probably ruined Jil by Jil for me. Retrospectively, I think her comeback collection might've been my favorite. Most of it just looks underwhelming and a bit dull and confused, the prints feel out of place. The shorts are great.

 

[hendrix]

quite liked some of that Zegna

 

[A Fellow Linguist]

Thanks for the great posts / thread Sipang. You're right about Kolor aping Dries, but Kolor's pricepoint doesn't make that a very appealing idea. I like some of the prints (the paint splatter thing) from Oliver Spencer but the show as a whole is pretty uninspiring.

 

[diniro]

Jil ss14 is sick imo I don't get the hate. Also wish I was tall so I can just wear all margaret howell.

 

[LTTP]

I'm curious what was done to the leather at the jil show. If you watch the video it looks like it has been bonded or something; it barely creases when the guy walks.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

Glad people liked Margaret Howell. I thought it was nice too. McQueen and Jil both make me want some super baggy shorts. Lee Roach was ok. I get that he's got his signatures (strap/buckle closure on blazer - check!), but I'm already getting a little bored with it. Kolor was great. It really is super Dries-y though in a way that I can't help but feel is just unoriginal. That said, I still like the way it looks.

I really liked what Pilati did for Zegna. Like sipang said, it's a good fit. He was subversive in a subtle way. The tailoring here, for instance, is really cool and closer in its DNA to something like Damir than traditional Italian whatever. (Just for fun, imagine the look in black with frayed edges.) I'm not expecting anything like the YSL ss10 collection anytime soon, but I do have hope that Pilati will bust out something interesting in the future.

Ackermann did menswear before, I think just as a one-off thing when he was a special guest at Pitti. But if that's any indication, I'm not really super excited for his men's collection this year. It was exactly what you'd expect: iridescent flowing buttonless wrapped everything. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-HACKERMAN/. I think that looks great on women, but it felt a little old (and sleazy) for me on the guys. Maybe just me though.

 

[SirGrotius]

Love the Zegna. Not feeling Jil, and I'm usually a fan. Margaret Howell looks awesome, but I think all the positive comments biased me.