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SPRNG SMMR 2K14 FSHN

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    LONDON MENSWEAR 15/06 -18/06

    Done
    MILAN MENSWEAR 22/06 - 25/06

    22/06 - 10:30 • Ermenegildo Zegna 22/06 - 16:00 • Jil Sander 23/06 - 09:30 • Bottega Veneta 23/06 - 10:30 • Trussardi 23/06 - 11:30 • Iceberg 23/06 - 13:45 • Marni 23/06 - 14:00 • Calvin Klein Collection 23/06 - 15:00 • Vivienne Westwood 23/06 - 16:00 • Missoni 23/06 - 18:00 • Prada 23/06 - 19:00 • Moncler Gamme Bleu 24/06 - 14:00 • Etro 24/06 - 17:00 • Umit Benan 25/06 - 10:30 • Giorgio Armani 25/06- 12:30 • Z Zegna
    PARIS MENSWEAR 26/06 - 30/06

    26/06 - 12:30 • Julius 26/06 - 13:30 • Julien David 26/06 - 15:30 • John Lawrence Sullivan 26/06 - 16:30 • Walter Van Beirendonck 26/06 - 18:30 • Haider Ackermann 26/06 - 20:30 • Raf Simons 27/06 - 11:30 • Issey Miyake 27/06 - 12:30 • Rick Owens 27/06 - 12:45 • Jean Paul Gaultier 27/06 - 16:30 • 22/4 - Menswear 27/06 - 17:30 • Yohji Yamamoto 27/06 - 19:00 • Dries Van Noten 28/06 - 10:00 • Junya Watanabe 28/06 - 11:00 • Ann Demeulemeester 28/06 - 12:00 • Maison Martin Margiela 28/06 - 12:45 • ACNE 28/06 - 13:00 • Henrik Vibskov 28/06 - 14:00 • Juun J 28/06 - 15:00 • KRISVANASSCHE 28/06 - 16:00 • Cerruti 28/06 - 17:00 • Comme des Garcons 28/06 - 18:00 • Givenchy 29/06 - 11:00 • Atelier Gustavolins 29/06 - 11:45 • Sacai 29/06 - 12:00 • Songzio 29/06 - 13:00 • Tillman Lauterbach 29/06 - 15:00 • Dior Homme 29/06 - 16:00 • Boris Bidjan Saberi 29/06 - 18:00 • Miharayasuhiro 29/06 - 19:00 • Damir Doma 29/06 - 20:00 • Hermes 30/06 - 11:00 • Lanvin 30/06 - 12:00 • Agnés B 30/06 - 12:45 • Christophe Lemaire 30/06 - 18:00 • Thom Browne 30/06 - 20:00 • Saint Laurent
     
    6 people like this.
  2. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    LONDON MENSWEAR 15/06 -18/06

    LONDON--Looking past the awful shit, the Prorsum biting Prada (nice color blocking tho), the dummies bandwagoning the Givenchy trainwreck, the generic #menswears, the browear Damir-lite, the Tom Ford, the "let's add some random piece of fabric on a shoddy design and call it avant-garde" , . .
    ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Not a fan of the prints overload mid-show or some of the weird tailoring after that but those first few layered looks are great. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] LEE ROACH [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] SHAUN SAMSON The collection as a whole is pretty shit, I save the overalls, the oversize and the platform vans. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] MARTINE ROSE Never disappoints. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] OLIVER SPENCER [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] E. TAUTZ Can't help but feel the collection is somewhat connected to the #menswear appropriation of experimental layering and ethnic garments but the E.Tautz guy looks like he's having fun with his last few collections [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] MARGARET HOWELL Great volumes & color palette. Boring done great. SW&D needs more Margaret Howell. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
    16 people like this.
  3. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    I like some of the Christopher Raeburn stuff. The Margaret Howell is as you say boring, done well. Oliver Spencer is completely inoffensive, but could be from last year or the year before.
     
  4. dwyhajlo

    dwyhajlo Senior member

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    Is that a Haider Ackermann menswear presentation I see on the Paris schedule?:drool:
     
  5. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    yes yes


     
  6. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Like the Margaret Howell. Giving me a 90s vibe (nttawwt).
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
    4 people like this.
  7. LTTP

    LTTP Senior member

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  8. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 19/06 - 20/06

    KOLOR Dries vibes [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  9. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    MILAN MENSWEAR 22/06

    ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Good fit for Pilati [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] JIL SANDER As unfair as it might be, Raf probably ruined Jil by Jil for me. Retrospectively, I think her comeback collection might've been my favorite. Most of it just looks underwhelming and a bit dull and confused, the prints feel out of place. The shorts are great. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  10. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    quite liked some of that Zegna
     
  11. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

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    Thanks for the great posts / thread Sipang. You're right about Kolor aping Dries, but Kolor's pricepoint doesn't make that a very appealing idea. I like some of the prints (the paint splatter thing) from Oliver Spencer but the show as a whole is pretty uninspiring.
     
  12. diniro

    diniro Senior member

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    Jil ss14 is sick imo I don't get the hate. Also wish I was tall so I can just wear all margaret howell.
     
  13. LTTP

    LTTP Senior member

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    I'm curious what was done to the leather at the jil show. If you watch the video it looks like it has been bonded or something; it barely creases when the guy walks.
     
  14. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Glad people liked Margaret Howell. I thought it was nice too. McQueen and Jil both make me want some super baggy shorts. Lee Roach was ok. I get that he's got his signatures (strap/buckle closure on blazer - check!), but I'm already getting a little bored with it. Kolor was great. It really is super Dries-y though in a way that I can't help but feel is just unoriginal. That said, I still like the way it looks.

    I really liked what Pilati did for Zegna. Like sipang said, it's a good fit. He was subversive in a subtle way. The tailoring here, for instance, is really cool and closer in its DNA to something like Damir than traditional Italian whatever. (Just for fun, imagine the look in black with frayed edges.) I'm not expecting anything like the YSL ss10 collection anytime soon, but I do have hope that Pilati will bust out something interesting in the future.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Ackermann did menswear before, I think just as a one-off thing when he was a special guest at Pitti. But if that's any indication, I'm not really super excited for his men's collection this year. It was exactly what you'd expect: iridescent flowing buttonless wrapped everything. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-HACKERMAN/. I think that looks great on women, but it felt a little old (and sleazy) for me on the guys. Maybe just me though.
     
  15. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    Love the Zegna. Not feeling Jil, and I'm usually a fan. Margaret Howell looks awesome, but I think all the positive comments biased me. :)
     
  16. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    It just feels like a mishmash of ideas --none of which are fully developed -- pulling the collection in different directions, she's been pushing prints for the last few collections and it always feel like an afterthought.



    It's in no way not a radical departure from the previous Zegna collections but it's great to see Pilati bringing the subtlety and refinement (and color palette) from his best YSL years (mainly FW07, SS08, FW10, SS11, FW11, SS12) to the label.



    Hackermann = Damir x Hefner

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2013
  17. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    Hackermann = Damir x Hefner

    :laugh:
     
  18. 1969

    1969 Senior member

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    MH appeals to the uniformist in me. Also, I wish it was easier to find pants cut like this

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. futuresailors

    futuresailors Senior member

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    Balenciaga too busy suing to put out a menswear collection?
     
  20. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    It's never been on the runway
     

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