UrbanComposition
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Soooooo perhaps @kiya can chime in, but on new denim I’ve gotten both types of hems, and they fade more or less the same as you wear it. For longevity a single needle lockstitch is want you want. A chainstitch can unravel but has that wabi-sabi unevenness that is traditional for jeans. A very slight difference as you break it in and it fades.