• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Sport Coats and Jeans

orange fury

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
4,143
Reaction score
14,492
New pics. I think I’ve made a decision, but I want to hear feedback to see if it matches what I was thinking.

39R
A3143489-8CA3-44FC-A998-EDAAB91AD150.jpeg


85290A2D-4780-4A51-912E-BC333AD52B4D.jpeg


942A3528-8ECD-4401-9DA8-F7C0C01D48DB.jpeg


40R
11819358-4247-404B-925D-26535E91480C.jpeg


37CEABA9-863A-4632-BDEB-820E4FE0F95D.jpeg


1249AECE-24EB-45F9-B2E6-32A63636A9AF.jpeg


Interestingly, these were the measurements:

39R:
Shoulder- 18”
Chest- 20.5”
Length (BOC)- 30”

40R:
Shoulder- 18.5”
Chest- 21”
Length- 29.75” (!)

My 40R from last year:
Shoulder- 18”
Chest- 21”
Length- 30”
 

Riva

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
3,715
Reaction score
2,245
New pics. I think I’ve made a decision, but I want to hear feedback to see if it matches what I was thinking.

39R
View attachment 1080086

View attachment 1080087

View attachment 1080089

40R
View attachment 1080088

View attachment 1080091

View attachment 1080090

Interestingly, these were the measurements:

39R:
Shoulder- 18”
Chest- 20.5”
Length (BOC)- 30”

40R:
Shoulder- 18.5”
Chest- 21”
Length- 29.75” (!)

My 40R from last year:
Shoulder- 18”
Chest- 21”
Length- 30”
Back looks cleaner on the 40 but front is better with the 39 imo.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
12,623
Reaction score
27,922
Both look too short to me, tbh. It just feels like one of those things you'll wear a couple of times and then re-sell.

Between the two, I like the 40 more, fwiw. The 39 looks shrunken all around, whereas the width on the 40 looks OK, but it's still kind of cropped.

FWIW, the two side-by-side and made brighter.

11819358-4247-404B-925D-26535E91480C.jpg
 

Riva

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
3,715
Reaction score
2,245
Both look too short to me, tbh. It just feels like one of those things you'll wear a couple of times and then re-sell.

Between the two, I like the 40 more, fwiw. The 39 looks shrunken all around, whereas the width on the 40 looks OK, but it's still kind of cropped.

FWIW, the two side-by-side and made brighter.

View attachment 1080110
I'd wear the fit of the left daily but maybe for formal events it should be the right pic.
 

saskatoonjay

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2016
Messages
1,050
Reaction score
1,082
Both look too short to me, tbh. It just feels like one of those things you'll wear a couple of times and then re-sell.

Between the two, I like the 40 more, fwiw. The 39 looks shrunken all around, whereas the width on the 40 looks OK, but it's still kind of cropped.

FWIW, the two side-by-side and made brighter.

View attachment 1080110
What a difference with the pics shrunken so they fit on my screen! The jackets ARE too short.
 

Riva

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
3,715
Reaction score
2,245
What a difference with the pics shrunken so they fit on my screen! The jackets ARE too short.
This is probably the only time I agree. They're too short for your long legs and the formal occassion.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
12,623
Reaction score
27,922
What a difference with the pics shrunken so they fit on my screen! The jackets ARE too short.
I'm not really one for rules, but you can sort of tell in the original photos because the jacket isn't long enough for his fingers to easily cusp. The real "rule of thumb" here is that the hem of the jacket should roughly bisect the wearer halfway between the collar and the floor, but the idea that the jacket should cover your butt or roughly hit around your first/ second knuckle is easier for most people to judge.

IMO, the problem with all those short, slim, and deconstructed jackets nowadays is that they're often not very flattering. OP has a better build than most, so that J. Crew jacket is less egregious. But when you cut a jacket short, it emphasizes the hips in a weird way, which often gives the wearer a pear-shaped silhouette. Versus if the jacket is longer, it can actually be slimming. Yves Saint Laurent wore very long jackets that emphasized his slim build.


tumblr_inline_pdxdaaalg51qfex1b_500.jpg
tumblr_inline_pdxda1SDic1qfex1b_500.jpg



If you take out the structure in the chest and shoulders, you can similarly get that pear-shaped silhouette. The shoulders become narrow; the chest too tight. So unless your shoulders are naturally broader than your hips, the widest part of your silhouette ends up being around your hips.

In the two side-by-side photos I posted above, the 40 is on the left ,the 39 is on the right. Assuming OP's measurements are right, the upper half of the two jackets is only a 0.5" difference, but I think it makes an important impact. The 40 gives his shoulders and chest a bit more breadth, and if you cover up the bottom half of his outfit, the 40 gives him more a flattering V-shaped figure.


Screen Shot 2018-11-28 at 8.51.46 PM.png



Again, OP has a much better natural build than most. This effect is worse when you see guys who aren't in the best shape -- even worse if they in fact have a pear-shaped body.


11819358-4247-404B-925D-26535E91480C-1.jpg



But then if you extend the OP's photo all the way down, the jackets to me just look shrunken. I don't like using age or gender descriptions in clothes cause they feel so loaded, but to me those sort of jackets just look like you're wearing a women's or a boy's jacket. The effect feels more masculine to me if you have that V-shaped figure at the top with the broad shoulders and fuller chest, and a longer length.

It's hard to sell that stuff in stores though cause guys think it's fusty, old fashion, and out of date. So if you're shopping at more affordable stores, it's all going to be this shrunken, Thom Browne-esque tailoring. Sometimes that stuff can look fun in J. Crew ads, but it's less good in-real-life and on real people.

Some examples of longer jackets with slightly fuller chest/ shoulders area:


tumblr_mmm2ikivpU1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg

20180510214635407_500.jpg

1000.jpg

tumblr_mi28rsLKbF1rynjwuo1_1280.jpg
 
Last edited:

orange fury

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
4,143
Reaction score
14,492
I really appreciate all the advice and feedback- I promise I’m not trying to bombard the thread with my questions lol. I do have a question though, since the jacket is sold out online (no chance at a 40L)- would the effect of the shorter jacket be lessened by slimmer pants? The ones I’m wearing are pretty wide, which makes the whole thing look a bit bottom heavy imho

Edit: actually, I just tried on both jackets with much slimmer pants from one of my Spier & MacKay suits, and it completely changed the effect in my eyes. I’ll take some pics tomorrow evening and repost
 
Last edited:

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
12,623
Reaction score
27,922
I appreciate all the advice and feedback. I do have a question though, since the jacket is sold out online (no chance at a 40L)- would the effect of the shorter jacket be lessened by slimmer pants? The ones I’m wearing are pretty wide, which makes the whole thing look a bit bottom heavy imho
You can wear a short jacket if you do it in a very obviously casual way. Some SWD brands cut short jackets that are meant to be used more like casualwear. Here's an example from Barena:

tumblr_mzbp1pISEQ1qa2j8co1_500.jpg



That jacket is likely knitted from a jersey. It has revers and a three-button closure, but it's more obviously meant to be worn like casualwear (like you would with a field jacket or bomber). But the whole outfit has to be very casual and not CM-y, I think. In the J. Crew ad you posted, you can see the person wearing with jeans and a t-shirt (although, I also generally feel that, if a look seems like it could come from a J. Crew or Ralph Lauren ad, you should probably avoid it because it looks affected -- basically like you copied a J. Crew or Ralph Lauren ad).

I think tailoring is a little more forgiving if you don't fasten the coat. It's easier to tell when a jacket is too tight or short when you button it. And it's easier to get away with a contemporary cut in casualwear. Doesn't mean you can't wear wool trousers, but everything has to look very casual.

I sorta feel like this is easier to do with actual SWD brands though, like Barena, rather than J. Crew, which is meant for a more contemporary-classic look (so CM-y).
 

Riva

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
3,715
Reaction score
2,245
I really appreciate all the advice and feedback- I promise I’m not trying to bombard the thread with my questions lol. I do have a question though, since the jacket is sold out online (no chance at a 40L)- would the effect of the shorter jacket be lessened by slimmer pants? The ones I’m wearing are pretty wide, which makes the whole thing look a bit bottom heavy imho

Edit: actually, I just tried on both jackets with much slimmer pants from one of my Spier & MacKay suits, and it completely changed the effect in my eyes. I’ll take some pics tomorrow evening and repost
Short jackets must always be worn with slim pants. Otherwise you'll look like a bonsai plant.
 

sugarbutch

Bearded Prick
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Messages
16,875
Reaction score
20,706
If @orange fury is planning to wear the jacket with jeans, then I think the length is about right. If the plan is to wear it with tailored pants, then mo length mo betta.
 

Featured Sponsor

What's your favorite type of loafer?

  • Tassel loafers

  • Penny loafers

  • Horsebit loafers

  • Kiltie loafers

  • I hate loafers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
420,554
Messages
9,033,070
Members
190,180
Latest member
nabilalif

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top