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Sport Coats and Jeans

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by An Acute Style, Jul 30, 2017.

  1. orange fury

    orange fury Distinguished Member

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    Prefacing with the statement that I know they’re not the same.

    My suits for the past few years have been some J Crew Factory ones I purchased on deep discount (i needed some quickly) that have been absolute dogshit. Besides the cheap fabric and microscopic lapels, they’ve had atrocious construction and every single one has fallen apart. I’ve ditched all but a navy one and am trying out Spier & Mackay. Relating this back to standard J Crew- most of their suits have seemed pretty similar to the Factory models- maybe slightly nicer fabrics and a touch better construction, but it seems like they can’t/won’t ditch those stupid 1.5” lapels. And I know they’ve got a couple models with 3” lapels now, but I would think that should be standard. The one exception to this rant is the navy velvet shawl collar dinner jacket I got from mainline J Crew a couple years ago- that has become my go-to DJ with black tie during the holidays, and is actually pretty well made.

    Point being, I love old J Crew and hate most of the new stuff
     

  2. Skanstull

    Skanstull Senior Member

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    I am slowly working my way through this rather long thread, but if anyone would like to give me a quick response, it would be appreciated.

    I am considering buying a pair of dark blue jeans. Maybe selvedge - I don't know if it matters. Have been looking at Blackhorse Lane Atelier. I want them to go with derbies, not boots. And maybe sports coat (as that is the subject of this thread), but probably more often with a wool sweater with a tucked in shirt underneath. But...
    • Tapered or straight? I am thinking of tapered to balance the shoes?
    • Turnups or no turnups? If yes, how much extra inseam to allow for tasteful (please define) turnups?
    • Selvedge or organic indigo denim? Does it matter? At least in Blackhorse Lane's offerings, the selvedge jeans look to be a bit darker than those that are referred to as 'Organic indigo denim'.
     

  3. JohnAAG

    JohnAAG Distinguished Member

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    There are no doubt others here more expert on jeans, but I'll help if I can:

    Tapered or straight: personally I prefer slightly tapered. I just don't like extra fabric flapping around below the knee, especially if I'm wearing shoes rather than boots. Different brands define the cut of "straight" and "tapered" differently. In some cases, brand X"s "straight" cut can have more taper than brand Y's slim fit. So I would focus more on the measurements than whatever they are calling a particular cut.

    Turnups? Depends. I like 1" turnups with more faded or broken in jeans. With new or really dark washes I find the band of lighter colored fabric at the ankle distracting so I usually avoid turnups with those jeans. Personally, if you're going with a very dark wash, I would skip the turnups.

    Selvedge: my apologies in advance if I'm saying something you already know. Selvedge just refers to how the denim was made. So you can get selvedge denim in all kinds of washes and finishes, from raw to prefaded and distressed. Likewise, dark "raw" denim does not have to be selvedge. "Raw" simply means the denim hasn't gone through any treatments (normally other sanforization) to change its character. Plenty of companies offer high quality, sanforized, raw non-selvedge denim jeans. So if you're not worried about using turnups (where that exposed strip of selvedge is a nice, if somewhat overplayed, touch) then I would focus more on getting the color you want. Whether that color comes from a dyeing process or the raw state of the denm is up to you. Raw denim will have a longer break-in time (how long depends on the denim weight). But the fades that develop will be uniquely yours. A pair of dark wash jeans will be comfortable off the rack, but probably won't develop the same character over time.

    Hope that helps!
    John
     

  4. flashjack

    flashjack Senior Member

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    Most popular opinion on this thread would be jeans with a higher rise, a bit of a taper.

    W.r.t turn ups, I think that's a bit more of a personal preference. One of my favourite looks was from last year's Drake's A/W lookbook, fairly thick turn up with a pair of shell NST derbies.

    images.jpeg
     

  5. Skanstull

    Skanstull Senior Member

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    05E66685-9280-4D12-BD4B-B376AFF80B60.jpeg
    I like this picture, courtesy The Rake (with Blackhorse Lane denim). The unwashed denim and turnups look good with the mid brown brogues.
     

  6. fastlane

    fastlane Member

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    Love the texture mixes here - fantastic outfit!
     

  7. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    Doing my part today...
    [​IMG]
     

  8. quigleysr

    quigleysr Member

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    0C9023F0-4279-4F4F-B8E0-EADCC1D4B857.jpeg
    Not exactly denim but navy 5 pockets are pretty close. Shirt and tweed from S&M.
     

  9. colHolm

    colHolm Senior Member

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    Same tweed I think. Donegal from last year @quigleysr ?
    44E8C00E-1BBD-4A4D-9A71-C805BE3E274B.jpeg
     

  10. Veremund

    Veremund Distinguished Member

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  11. colHolm

    colHolm Senior Member

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    I would rather have not grown up. But thanks! :cheers:
     

  12. orange fury

    orange fury Distinguished Member

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    Same J Crew tweed from last weekend:
    60E908D8-EECA-4302-B0D9-AF985F863BC9.jpeg

    D9A0F46F-C601-49A1-90D6-A8B17469CA8F.jpeg

    EC42A1E0-964F-4A49-8777-4C44E00FD9C0.jpeg
     

  13. saskatoonjay

    saskatoonjay Senior Member

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  14. jbarwick

    jbarwick Distinguished Member

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    I am moving more towards this mindset. Have less. Have better. Wear the shit out of it.
     

  15. Eli Curt

    Eli Curt Senior Member

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    Has anybody here tried the Wrangler cowboy fit?

    I'm thinking it will work well for a higher rise straight/slim fit. Remove the cowboy boots (or don't) and insert your favorite belt...voila:

    upload_2018-11-13_15-51-47.png

    upload_2018-11-13_15-52-12.png
     

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