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Split yoke / collar stays

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by office drone, Oct 10, 2006.

  1. office drone

    office drone Senior member

    Messages:
    126
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2006
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Hi guys, sorry for the noob questions, but here goes:

    1) From reading your posts, it appears split yokes on shirts are preferred. Why is this? I would have thought the back of the shirt looks more clean and simple with a one-piece yoke.

    2) I just realized my Maxwell shirts (www.maxwellsclothiers.com) have collar stays permanently stitched in, and I don't remember them asking me if I wanted them removable when they measured me and took my order.. Now I'm thinking they're gonna get bent (feel like thin plastic) when I wash the shirts, then I'm screwed. Am I overreacting? Can a tailor convert my shirts so the collar stays are removable? Do most of you that order custom shirts have the stays removable?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    From reading your posts, it appears split yokes on shirts are preferred.

    Split yokes add nothing to the fit of a shirt.

    Maxwell shirts have collar stays permanently stitched in ,Can a tailor convert my shirts so the collar stays are removable? Do most of you that order custom shirts have the stays removable?

    A shirtmaker could make the necessary repair, which would be preferred as I can see no reason to have permanent stays.
     
  3. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

    Messages:
    2,547
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    Mar 12, 2006
    I have come to my own conclusion for split yokes after my own observation. Split yokes IMO more appropriate Pattern Matching for Striped Shirts. The Upside down V not only looks good from the back, but most importantly, from the side, the stripes seem to stretch from sleeve up to neck. E.g. Picture [​IMG] Single Yoke Cleaner look for solid colored Shirts, looks kind of odd on Striped shirts IMO. Esp. when viewed from front/side, the stripes seem to wrap the shoulders and face forward
     
  4. TyskJohan

    TyskJohan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2006
    Location:
    Oslo, Norway
    Split yokes
    IMO more appropriate Pattern Matching for Striped Shirts. The Upside down V not only looks good from the back, but most importantly, from the side, the stripes seem to stretch from sleeve up to neck.

    E.g. Picture
    [​IMG]


    That's sharp.
     
  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    There are several ways to prepare non-removable stays. I have a feeling that yours are sewn in place. Wash your shirt as normal. Next time you order shirts ask for removable stays.


    In most cases a split yoke is only for show, or for the shirt cutter to save a little fabric.

    Carl
     
  6. Ivan Kipling

    Ivan Kipling Senior member

    Messages:
    2,114
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2006
    A longheld belief is that split yokes allow a bit more room, for comfort and movement. Of store bought brands, it seems like POLO still uses this technique. Land's End, is quite proud of its split back yokes. The most expensive shirts I've bought in ready to wear . . . don't have them. [​IMG]
     

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