Split Toe Derby

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I would counter DieWW's commentary. Certain individuals intentionally want people's eye level to focus on their shoes.

I have a co-worker who purposely prefers brighter shoes so that the focal point of his outfit are his shoes. He does this because he feels insecure about the lack of quality in his sport coats, so he purchases more expensive shoes. As well as, purchasing brighter pocket squares.

A friend of mines likes brighter shoes because he just prefers the look. He claims it is a "Caribbean" thing. He is from Haiti.

Having said that, I find walnut and light tan shoes extremely difficult to wear. My clothing is New York City inspired, read of the darker persuasion. Sadly, my Alden whiskey cordovan's do not see the light of day.

Speaking of Alden, here is a beefier split toe option.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Top three split toes (in no specific order) in RTW models and chosen primarily because I'd have my leathers textures (smooth leather, hatch grain, suede) covered:

1. Edward Green Dover 606 last in Dark Oak.. Obviously biased since I have been pushing the DOAKs

2. Saint Crispin's RUS 075 on the Riva last in medium brown . Whilst I love that EG hand sewn apron, SC does a mighty fine machine sewn one.

3. Carmina in Polo Suede (Model 757) in the Soller Last because I can wear it three seasons, with jeans, and light colored odd trousers.

 

[aj2603]

Top three split toes (in no specific order) in RTW models and chosen primarily because I'd have my leathers textures (smooth leather, hatch grain, suede) covered:

1. Edward Green Dover 606 last in Dark Oak.. Obviously biased since I have been pushing the DOAKs

2. Saint Crispin's RUS 075 on the Riva last in medium brown . Whilst I love that EG hand sewn apron, SC does a mighty fine machine sewn one.
View attachment 1217096

3. Carmina in Polo Suede (Model 757) in the Soller Last because I can wear it three seasons, with jeans, and light colored odd trousers.
View attachment 1217089

nice selection

 

[Wingtip77]

Thanks for taking the time to add all of this really useful information. I wish this had been available sooner!

Like I said earlier, I went with a pair of Vass (non Kaan) and a pair of EG Dovers on the 606 last. However if I was choosing again I would seriously consider the Meccariello or St Crispins options, but my shoe budget is lower than it once was, so I’m happy to stick with what I’ve got.

 

[aristoi bcn]

It's bespoke but...

 

[aj2603]

Thanks for taking the time to add all of this really useful information. I wish this had been available sooner!

Like I said earlier, I went with a pair of Vass (non Kaan) and a pair of EG Dovers on the 606 last. However if I was choosing again I would seriously consider the Meccariello or St Crispins options, but my shoe budget is lower than it once was, so I’m happy to stick with what I’ve got.

both r great shoes...

EG Dover is on my list as well..

Hopefully this list might help someone in the market for a split toe ...

 

[amiga505]

great thread.

I'd like to mention another quite decent (in my opinion and experience so far) budget option - this was my entry into a split-toe derby world and the only pair I own so far.

Loding:

 

[aj2603]

Speaking of some what budget options.. There is loake as well. Their Ealing is a good model for a budget concision buyer

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Wingtip: Like I said earlier, I went with a pair of Vass (non Kaan) and a pair of EG Dovers on the 606 last. However if I was choosing again I would seriously consider the Meccariello or St Crispins options, but my shoe budget is lower than it once was, so I’m happy to stick with what I’ve got.

You made fantastic choices Wingtip. The Dover, to me, is the best looking RTW split toe I had seen. In fact, that was the shoe that made me even consider a split toe.

The SC is still, again imo, the best looking DERBY I have seen.

great thread.

I'd like to mention another quite decent (in my opinion and experience so far) budget option - this was my entry into a split-toe derby world and the only pair I own so far.

Amiga glad you mentioned budget. The Dover is an extremely expensive shoe. I believe $1600 off the shelf at retail. The SC about $1400. We are talking an absurd $3000 for a set of shoes (if you bought both).

The best looking split toe, imo, at a fair price (have seen it as low as $235) would be the Sons of Henrey split toe. The construction is essentially the same as the Dover with an interesting leather (if one were to purchase the Utah grain).

 

[aj2603]

The Dovers are extremely expensive and in all honesty if u look at it objectively, they are absolutely not worth the price.

But then if u r on this thread, u love shoes and have thrown out the objectivity out the window a long time back.

Subjectively, for me they are like the best looking split toe. Very expensive : YES. but then i am saving up to buy them soon.

But if u want something in between which has a slightly more round (not very chiseled) last then i think u should look at Miyagi Kogyo .

They look quite similar to the SC but at almost half the price (around 700 to 750 USD)

Miyagi Kogyo

skomakerdagestad.no

 

[Thomson]

So I guess there are basically two variants: One which is basically a standard derby construction where the rear parts of the uppers overlap the front parts, see the Loakes above. And a second where the side panels of the uppers are basically one piece which is sewn together at the front and the back of the shoe, see the bespoke shoes above or the Dovers.

To my mind, the second version looks more special than the first. I have bought a split toe a couple of weeks ago and chose the Dover on the 202 as I prefer a more rounded toe. Apologies for the substandard snaps.

 

[aj2603]

I like the 606 last on the dover more.. but thats just me...

I think that slightly square sole tip give another added dimension to the design ...

 

[dieworkwear]

It's bespoke but... View attachment 1217099

These look like they combine all the worst elements of split toes. The machine-sewn seam, the extended toe seam, the plain quarters, the single leather sole, and the band-aid color.

 

[aristoi bcn]

These look like they combine all the worst elements of split toes. The machine-sewn seam, the extended toe seam, the plain quarters, the single leather sole, and the band-aid color.

A split-toe has not to be rustic per se. Sometimes you just want a simple thing done right. And this Marini is well done. It's a shoe that's been in the shop window for around 50 years, hence its colour.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

The Dovers are extremely expensive and in all honesty if u look at it objectively, they are absolutely not worth the price.

But then if u r on this thread, u love shoes and have thrown out the objectivity out the window a long time back.

Subjectively, for me they are like the best looking split toe. Very expensive : YES. but then i am saving up to buy them soon.

But if u want something in between which has a slightly more round (not very chiseled) last then i think u should look at Miyagi Kogyo .

They look quite similar to the SC but at almost half the price (around 700 to 750 USD)

Miyagi Kogyo

skomakerdagestad.no

I absolutely concur with the Dovers being too expensive. I would argue that both objectively or subjectively they are an exorbitantly priced pair of good year welted shoes. As you mentioned though, when one is in the market for the Dover there has already been price awareness and price acceptance (begrudgingly perhaps). The Dover is most definitely not budget friendly, but (as I have reiterated a few times) it is to my eye worth every penny. The last, leather, and feel of the shoe is incomparable, imo.

You wish to purchase the Dover..objectivity has not only been thrown out the window, but it rolled down the street, and into the sewer. The heart wants what the heart wants. Anyone on this thread looking at the Dover surely wants what the heart wants.

Great that you are saving up for it. Or anyone reading this on the fence about saving up for it. You will not regret it, as I am sure Wingtip does not regret it. Obviously, I do not regret it haha.