Split Toe Derby

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

The article name from the tannery is Novonappa. Delapre is how EG calls it (Hermes calls it Barenia). Utah is name EG uses for Novonappa with the hatch emboss.
Novanappa is also combination tanned/ veg retan; not a straight veg tan.
The toggle dried horween hatchgrain article you are talking about must be the Arlington. I have seen Stefano Bemer uses a Horsefront leather with hatchgrain emboss, probably exclusive to them.

That would be correct. The Haas products mentioned are double tanned or re-tanned. Which is why Utah can still age unlike the straight Chrome tanned Horween product. Degermann (another French tannery) has similar leathers across their lines.

The Arlington is not however exclusive to SB. Any maker or individual can request the Arlington version from Horween. Just so happens that Italian suppliers have primarily the Arlington at their disposal. Italian makers tend to like it because it is a more open grain and softer temper compared to the standard version.

 

[deadfisheyes]

That would be correct. The Haas products mentioned are double tanned or re-tanned. Which is why Utah can still age unlike the straight Chrome tanned Horween product. Degermann (another French tannery) has similar leathers across their lines.

The Arlington is not however exclusive to SB. Any maker or individual can request the Arlington version from Horween. Just so happens that Italian suppliers have primarily the Arlington at their disposal. Italian makers tend to like it because it is a more open grain and softer temper compared to the standard version.

Yes, I mean the Hatch grain Horrsefront seems exclusive to SB.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Yes, I mean the Hatch grain Horrsefront seems exclusive to SB.

Might be, but I'm sure that can be sourced as well. If you know the tannery, should be relatively easy to obtain.

 

[kg13]

Hi everyone.

Has anyone here tried shoes from An Hy in Vietnam? I'm messaging them now via e-mail and would like to hear more about the brand and the quality of the shoes from those who have experience with them before pulling the trigger. Thanks a lot!

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Hi everyone.

Has anyone here tried shoes from An Hy in Vietnam? I'm messaging them now via e-mail and would like to hear more about the brand and the quality of the shoes from those who have experience with them before pulling the trigger. Thanks a lot!

Other than knowing their name and the country where the shoes are made, I know nothing about the brand.

Having said that for those that have knowledge about the brand, it would be extremely helpful to have more details revealed about the shoes An Hy makes. Details such as construction, materials, MTO options, general pricing etc. would be informative for inquiring minds.

 

[acapaca]

Hi everyone.

Has anyone here tried shoes from An Hy in Vietnam? I'm messaging them now via e-mail and would like to hear more about the brand and the quality of the shoes from those who have experience with them before pulling the trigger. Thanks a lot!

I haven't handled any of the shoes yet, but I spent an hour or so talking with one of the owners/founders in Ho Chi Minh. I definitely want to order a pair, but I'm waiting to see more in the way of sample designs. I can tell you that the specs are very high, I'd say at a notch above the likes of Oct Tenth, Yeossal, etc, and that they seem to really know what they are doing, and really be serious about it.

See if you can track them down through one of the Facebook groups, or ask them directly for some of the information they have shared there. I think they have a series of pictures showing all the handwork that goes into every pair, particularly in the heels and soles. Intriguing, to be sure.

 

[acapaca]

Other than knowing their name and the country where the shoes are made, I know nothing about the brand.

Having said that for those that have knowledge about the brand, it would be extremely helpful to have more details revealed about the shoes An Hy makes. Details such as construction, materials, MTO options, general pricing etc. would be informative for inquiring minds.

I don't know that I can speak to all of these, but some of them I can. The pricing is right around 800 USD, I think, for things apart from exotics and such. (I did see pictures of an impressive example of their work in crocodile.) Handwelted and lasted, of course. Heels are made layer by layer, not prefab. (Not sure what the right terminology is there.) Leathers are from the usual European suspects, and they seem quite knowledgeable about those and can get their hands on things.

They are open to creating any design you like, I believe, but that gets to the rub they have right now, as an aspiring new brand, which is that they don't have a lot of models/examples/samples to show you. Likewise, I don't know much about the lasts. I just sent Dung a message to see if he might have some samples he could show me now. It's been several months since I talked to him last.

Edit: I went through my chat with him from before we met. He says hand welted, hand lasted, hand stitched outsole, hand stacked heels. Aiming for a bespoke level of finishing. Baker insoles, JR outsoles. Du Puy for calf, Zonta or Stead for suede, can source Weinheimer, Ilcea, Annonay. When asked about the difference between him and Xibao, says more handwork. Says only the rough sanding of the edge and heel is done with a sanding machine, the rest fine sanded and hand finished with iron. Then we talked about stock designs and the ability to come up with something new. Nothing much about lasts, though.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I don't know that I can speak to all of these, but some of them I can. The pricing is right around 800 USD, I think, for things apart from exotics and such. (I did see pictures of an impressive example of their work in crocodile.) Handwelted and lasted, of course. Heels are made layer by layer, not prefab. (Not sure what the right terminology is there.) Leathers are from the usual European suspects, and they seem quite knowledgeable about those and can get their hands on things.

They are open to creating any design you like, I believe, but that gets to the rub they have right now, as an aspiring new brand, which is that they don't have a lot of models/examples/samples to show you. Likewise, I don't know much about the lasts. I just sent Dung a message to see if he might have some samples he could show me now. It's been several months since I talked to him last.

That's at least a solid starting point. Much appreciate the nuggets of information ??.

 

[acapaca]

That's at least a solid starting point. Much appreciate the nuggets of information ??.

You bet. And I just popped in some more details on edit that I found in our old chat.

I'm actually in his town this weekend and will update you here if he now has any samples to show!

 

[kg13]

You bet. And I just popped in some more details on edit that I found in our old chat.

I'm actually in his town this weekend and will update you here if he now has any samples to show!

Yes, please do update us! I've seen Thunder Merch make a review of their original split toe derby pattern. They have since updated it by shortening the apron and cleaning up the proportions. I like the new design much better.

I didn't know you could modify a pattern with them? I guess there would be an upcharge with that service?

 

[acapaca]

Yes, please do update us! I've seen Thunder Merch make a review of their original split toe derby pattern. They have since updated it by shortening the apron and cleaning up the proportions. I like the new design much better.

I didn't know you could modify a pattern with them? I guess there would be an upcharge with that service?

I heard back that they have no samples at the moment, I'm afraid. I do get the impression that they are doing this, for now at least, as a side project.

My experience may not be the same as what you'd get if you inquired now, since it's been many months, but in my case they seemed open to any designs I had in mind -- apart from, which I give them great credit for, copying another maker's distinctive design. While the (present) lack of samples/models might be a drawback, I think the flip side of it is that they are happy to work without whatever you have in mind.

Here are some sketches Dung shared with me, as we were talking about possibilities.

 

[kg13]

I heard back that they have no samples at the moment, I'm afraid. I do get the impression that they are doing this, for now at least, as a side project.

My experience may not be the same as what you'd get if you inquired now, since it's been many months, but in my case they seemed open to any designs I had in mind -- apart from, which I give them great credit for, copying another maker's distinctive design. While the (present) lack of samples/models might be a drawback, I think the flip side of it is that they are happy to work without whatever you have in mind.

Here are some sketches Dung shared with me, as we were talking about possibilities. View attachment 1606676 View attachment 1606677 View attachment 1606678 View attachment 1606679 View attachment 1606680 View attachment 1606681

Yes, they did show me these sketches as well. I'm currently deciding between a Dover style split toe or their sketch number 11 which is a pretty similar look to Enzo Bonafe's and JM Weston's (but sleeker than JM's haha).

The thing I'm put off with is that they are asking for 100 percent payment upfront. Most brands do a 50% deposit which I think is more fair. What do you guys think of this?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Yes, they did show me these sketches as well. I'm currently deciding between a Dover style split toe or their sketch number 11 which is a pretty similar look to Enzo Bonafe's and JM Weston's (but sleeker than JM's haha).

The thing I'm put off with is that they are asking for 100 percent payment upfront. Most brands do a 50% deposit which I think is more fair. What do you guys think of this?

Considering the prices are similar, if you like the EB design I would just go to them directly. In fact, they should be cheaper than An Hy.

I've heard 100% up front on MTOs. You are correct in that most of the time it is 50%. You could inquire for the 50%. Certainly couldn't hurt to ask.

 

[TheLawBeard]

So here’s one for the brain-trust here. Alden of Carmel did a run of NST saddle derbies. Has any other maker done that? Or do we know of anyone who’d be willing to do that?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

So here’s one for the brain-trust here. Alden of Carmel did a run of NST saddle derbies. Has any other maker done that? Or do we know of anyone who’d be willing to do that?

Offhand I can't think of anyone that has produced a saddle SpTD other than Alden. Saying that, I can't imagine it is too difficult to produce. You will have to MTO it obviously.

You wanted a uniform appearance, contrast-colored leather, or a different textured piece across the instep?