Split Toe Derby

[kg13]

Would get a pass from me. Too much uncertainty with what the long term results will be. Heck, no clue what those would look like even a year from now.

I'm not sure about your willingness or how deadset you are about this maker, but you can order the leather yourself. That is if they don't want to order it for you.

DWW posted AACRACK. That is definitely an option. If their quoted price is too much and you want them to order a hide for you, give me a shout. I should be able to quote you a price.

Wow! Thanks a lot! I'm not sure if they'd agree to an arrangement like that. I'll see and follow up here.

 

[dieworkwear]

One minute you've joined Styleforum and before you know it, you're literally buying Crack.

 

[acapaca]

Do you mind sharing a ballpark quote for MTM from Fugashin in that model? And did you get so far as to find out all the specs?

I just learned recently that they are doing more now in the way of MTM/bespoke. I've been following the brand for a little while, having picked up a couple pair of adelaides in their shops (one each in Hanoi and HCM) and being impressed with their lasts and leathers. I'm interested to visit them in person soon and talk to them about something higher end, as their RTW seems to me to be all over the place. I'd be more than happy to ask them anything in person if you like.

On the hatch grain, my understanding is that different makers will do some different kinds of finishing on their own, even when they start with the same Horween hides. For example, I have a pair from October Tenth in the reddish brown color that has a bit of black patina applied from the factory and a pair from Passus in the sienna color that has a dryer, crisper feel. I'm very far from an expert on this, so I may well be wrong, but it seems as though not every pair of shoes in a given Horween color will look and feel the same at any rate. But that said, painting it a whole other color does seem to take it a bit far. But if it means getting a killer price, maybe it's safe enough, and worth it?

Out of curiosity, have you looked into the Vietnamese maker Hephaestus? There is also a startup named, I think, An Huy that is guys from Fugashin, as I understand it, who are breaking out on their own and doing things at very high specs. But those are running around 800 USD, I think, with limited samples to view at present. Definitely keeping an eye on them, though.

 

[kg13]

Do you mind sharing a ballpark quote for MTM from Fugashin in that model? And did you get so far as to find out all the specs?

I just learned recently that they are doing more now in the way of MTM/bespoke. I've been following the brand for a little while, having picked up a couple pair of adelaides in their shops (one each in Hanoi and HCM) and being impressed with their lasts and leathers. I'm interested to visit them in person soon and talk to them about something higher end, as their RTW seems to me to be all over the place. I'd be more than happy to ask them anything in person if you like.

On the hatch grain, my understanding is that different makers will do some different kinds of finishing on their own, even when they start with the same Horween hides. For example, I have a pair from October Tenth in the reddish brown color that has a bit of black patina applied from the factory and a pair from Passus in the sienna color that has a dryer, crisper feel. I'm very far from an expert on this, so I may well be wrong, but it seems as though not every pair of shoes in a given Horween color will look and feel the same at any rate. But that said, painting it a whole other color does seem to take it a bit far. But if it means getting a killer price, maybe it's safe enough, and worth it?

Out of curiosity, have you looked into the Vietnamese maker Hephaestus? There is also a startup named, I think, An Huy that is guys from Fugashin, as I understand it, who are breaking out on their own and doing things at very high specs. But those are running around 800 USD, I think, with limited samples to view at present. Definitely keeping an eye on them, though.

Hi! No, I don't mind at all. Here's what they quoted me.

Made to order : usd 520 + 50
made to measurement + fitting : usd 650+ shipping 50 + 100 fitting

I've been lurking around here for a while now and been obsessively researching split toes. I think this particular Fugashin model has a good balance to it and looks very elegant. The deal breaker for me is the pretty aggressive patina on the leather. I'd rather have a nice, light burnish or a more natural look than what they want to do... Their pricing is pretty much in line with the other handwelted options in the market but the leather selection is lacking. They also don't show the options as elegantly as the other makers. Been back and forth with them via email, maybe 30+ emails in all just to get to this quotation.

I've seen Hephaestus and I think they make great shoes! Just a bit too sleek for my tastes. I'll be sure to check out An Huy!! Thanks for the recommendation

 

[JustPullHarder]

AFAIK some makers like GG will colour hatch while others like AM will patina it. Both are permanent. But applying polish seems lazy and not permanent.

 

[clee1982]

Sure not some lost in translation like they actually mean black “polish”?

 

[JustPullHarder]

The picture doesn't seem particularly uniform like they stripped it down and recoloured it.

I would want clarity before ordering.

 

[kg13]

Sure not some lost in translation like they actually mean black “polish”?

Hi!

This is what they told me

"The Hatch Grain Dark Brown from Horween is light tone , it must be use Black cream pr patina to get color as your pictures"

 

[clee1982]

I mean he says cream but when I say lost in translation I mean non native speaker use bunch things interchangeably even when they’re not.

why not ask them to show you how they do it on video and what “cream” they use?

but yea would prefer just a dark brown hatch grain to start with.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Hi! No, I don't mind at all. Here's what they quoted me.

Made to order : usd 520 + 50
made to measurement + fitting : usd 650+ shipping 50 + 100 fitting

I've been lurking around here for a while now and been obsessively researching split toes. I think this particular Fugashin model has a good balance to it and looks very elegant. The deal breaker for me is the pretty aggressive patina on the leather. I'd rather have a nice, light burnish or a more natural look than what they want to do... Their pricing is pretty much in line with the other handwelted options in the market but the leather selection is lacking. They also don't show the options as elegantly as the other makers. Been back and forth with them via email, maybe 30+ emails in all just to get to this quotation.

I've seen Hephaestus and I think they make great shoes! Just a bit too sleek for my tastes. I'll be sure to check out An Huy!! Thanks for the recommendation

If you’re in that price point have you considered Yeossal? I believe they stock the hatch grain in saddle which looks like this.

and given their variety of lasts you should be able to find something you like shape wise. It’s closer to the $650 point with shipping.

 

[kg13]

If you’re in that price point have you considered Yeossal? I believe they stock the hatch grain in saddle which looks like this.
View attachment 1604306
and given their variety of lasts you should be able to find something you like shape wise. It’s closer to the $650 point with shipping.

Thank you very much for your suggestion. Unfortunately, they stopped replying to me in IG when I was asking about the characteristics of their different lasts...

Awesome leather selection from them though. Would love either saddle brown hatch grain or dark brown utah calf

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thank you very much for your suggestion. Unfortunately, they stopped replying to me in IG when I was asking about the characteristics of their different lasts...

Awesome leather selection from them though. Would love either saddle brown hatch grain or dark brown utah calf

I’d just shoot them an email - They’ve always been super helpful for me on size guidance and working through fit issues.

 

[kg13]

I’d just shoot them an email - They’ve always been super helpful for me on size guidance and working through fit issues.

Ok I'll give that a shot. Thank you!

 

[deadfisheyes]

Do you mind sharing a ballpark quote for MTM from Fugashin in that model? And did you get so far as to find out all the specs?

I just learned recently that they are doing more now in the way of MTM/bespoke. I've been following the brand for a little while, having picked up a couple pair of adelaides in their shops (one each in Hanoi and HCM) and being impressed with their lasts and leathers. I'm interested to visit them in person soon and talk to them about something higher end, as their RTW seems to me to be all over the place. I'd be more than happy to ask them anything in person if you like.

On the hatch grain, my understanding is that different makers will do some different kinds of finishing on their own, even when they start with the same Horween hides. For example, I have a pair from October Tenth in the reddish brown color that has a bit of black patina applied from the factory and a pair from Passus in the sienna color that has a dryer, crisper feel. I'm very far from an expert on this, so I may well be wrong, but it seems as though not every pair of shoes in a given Horween color will look and feel the same at any rate. But that said, painting it a whole other color does seem to take it a bit far. But if it means getting a killer price, maybe it's safe enough, and worth it?

Out of curiosity, have you looked into the Vietnamese maker Hephaestus? There is also a startup named, I think, An Huy that is guys from Fugashin, as I understand it, who are breaking out on their own and doing things at very high specs. But those are running around 800 USD, I think, with limited samples to view at present. Definitely keeping an eye on them, though.

Thank you for the shout out! The name is An Hy though?.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Ok I'll give that a shot. Thank you!

I'd second the suggestion by @Jmr928 concerning Yeossal. A bunch of leather selections, a variety of lasts in which to choose from, and finely made shoes. Perhaps most importantly, they have the leather you want in stock.