Split Toe Derby

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

absolutely beautiful and love that last? Is that Utah grain leather?

Should be Horween's Russian hatch grain.

 

[aj2603]

absolutely beautiful and love that last? Is that Utah grain leather?

it is hatch grain

 

[Mallaig]

X-post from the Enzo Bonafe thread.

New split-toes arrived today from @SoleGarb. These have been a long time in the works. One standard trial pair, a fitting with Lorenzo, and two custom trial pairs to refine the last. Lorenzo tells me that Enzo did the work on the last himself. Those of you who have followed me here and on the StC thread will know my feet are long-ish and narrow with a low instep. Pretty much the antithesis of the standard EB fit.

After a lot of effort by a lot of people; I have a pair of shoes that really fit me. Or they will once I break them in Double soles and 270 degree Norvegese stitching makes for some stiff shoes. Will start the break in process tomorrow.

For reference, these are Oxblood Hatch Grain Split-Toe Derbies on 74945. Decided to go with these to dial-in the last before having some shell boots made.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

X-post from the Enzo Bonafe thread.

New split-toes arrived today from @SoleGarb. These have been a long time in the works. One standard trial pair, a fitting with Lorenzo, and two custom trial pairs to refine the last. Lorenzo tells me that Enzo did the work on the last himself. Those of you who have followed me here and on the StC thread will know my feet are long-ish and narrow with a low instep. Pretty much the antithesis of the standard EB fit.

After a lot of effort by a lot of people; I have a pair of shoes that really fit me. Or they will once I break them in Double soles and 270 degree Norvegese stitching makes for some stiff shoes. Will start the break in process tomorrow.

For reference, these are Oxblood Hatch Grain Split-Toe Derbies on 74945. Decided to go with these to dial-in the last before having some shell boots made.

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Great make up and pick up! I like that it looks sturdy (due to the Norwegian stitch), yet the last's shape still provides finesse.

 

[Mallaig]

Great make up and pick up! I like that it looks sturdy (due to the Norwegian stitch), yet the last's shape still provides finesse.

Thanks. Later today, I'll post some photos that contrast these with my Dovers.

 

[Mallaig]

Thanks. Later today, I'll post some photos that contrast these with my Dovers.

The contrast is quite startling.

From the pictures you can see that the stitching of the split toe and the apron are very different between the EG and EB shoes. The Dovers are on the 606 last, so they appear slimmer as you would expect.

What you won't see from the pictures is how much heavier the EBs are. The combination of the hatch grain leather vs suede, the double leather sole vs single rubber, and the Norvegese stitching, all combine to make the EBs about twice the weight of the Dovers. It really is that big of a difference.

Either way, both beautiful shoes.

 

[Phoenician]

managed to pick these up just after midnight in Brooks Brothers big sale. Made by Crockett & Jones and needed a nice casual derby in brown.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

The contrast is quite startling.

From the pictures you can see that the stitching of the split toe and the apron are very different between the EG and EB shoes. The Dovers are on the 606 last, so they appear slimmer as you would expect.

What you won't see from the pictures is how much heavier the EBs are. The combination of the hatch grain leather vs suede, the double leather sole vs single rubber, and the Norvegese stitching, all combine to make the EBs about twice the weight of the Dovers. It really is that big of a difference.

Either way, both beautiful shoes.


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Thanks for the comparison pictures. Both look great and offer different options with which to mix and match outfit opportunities.

managed to pick these up just after midnight in Brooks Brothers big sale. Made by Crockett & Jones and needed a nice casual derby in brown.



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Nice grab ??

 

[ShayaEXQT]

managed to pick these up just after midnight in Brooks Brothers big sale. Made by Crockett & Jones and needed a nice casual derby in brown.

Spoiler: Spoiler

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That's a great deal. Well done.

 

[nikolau]

On this notion of dreaming and to "cheat" the thread a bit, how about these beauties amongst beauties by JP Myhre in a split toe boot. Clearly Bespoke with the proportions, finishing, and last really exhibiting the finest details you would only find on a piece of footwear that has taken hours upon hours to complete.

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As well as our usual split toes by Antoine Grandval who makes a monstrous blind waist and beveled waist with a squared toe. Very interesting.

Folks- I know this post is ancient, but these boots are rather captivating. Would any among you be so bold as to recommend a maker/cordwainer who might be able to make a NST boot of similar beauty to the one pictured in this older post?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Folks- I know this post is ancient, but these boots are rather captivating. Would any among you be so bold as to recommend a Hungarian or European maker who might be able to make a NST boot of similar beauty to the one pictured in this older post?

Oh wow it has been a while since I posted those pictures.

Well JP Myhre is European, but I am guessing you are talking about a boot less than $4000 which IIRC is what these are. In terms of Hungarian, I can't think of one that would offer this kind of finesse on the finishing. Sure there are a few who can do it, however you want both rugged yet refined.

How about Zonkey Boot? I've included both a photo of the boot as well as their SpTD. Here you can envision what the stitching may look like on these boots with that stitching.

I could see some people suggest Enzo Bonafe (EB which would be cheaper), but their boots are not as sophisticated as these are. Others may say Saint Crispin's (StC), however these have just that slight touch of panaché and would be slightly cheaper.

Incidentally, what's the price range?

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

X-post from the Enzo Bonafe thread.

New split-toes arrived today from @SoleGarb. These have been a long time in the works. One standard trial pair, a fitting with Lorenzo, and two custom trial pairs to refine the last. Lorenzo tells me that Enzo did the work on the last himself. Those of you who have followed me here and on the StC thread will know my feet are long-ish and narrow with a low instep. Pretty much the antithesis of the standard EB fit.

After a lot of effort by a lot of people; I have a pair of shoes that really fit me. Or they will once I break them in Double soles and 270 degree Norvegese stitching makes for some stiff shoes. Will start the break in process tomorrow.

For reference, these are Oxblood Hatch Grain Split-Toe Derbies on 74945. Decided to go with these to dial-in the last before having some shell boots made.

View attachment 1399666 View attachment 1399667 View attachment 1399668 View attachment 1399669 View attachment 1399670 View attachment 1399671

Beautiful shoes, congratulations, the STD is one of the patterns I am starting to prefer. One of my "grail shoes" is the EG Dover, I was waiting until a trip to UK can make that happen so I can avoid sizing issues. Maybe I will need to rethink that.

Cheers

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Beautiful shoes, congratulations, the STD is one of the patterns I am starting to prefer. One of my "grail shoes" is the EG Dover, I was waiting until a trip to UK can make that happen so I can avoid sizing issues. Maybe I will need to rethink that.

Cheers

Would be a fantastic shoe. Definitely a grail shoe based on its pricing. I'd suggest continue waiting just to lock in your sizing ??.

 

[nikolau]

Oh wow it has been a while since I posted those pictures.

Well JP Myhre is European, but I am guessing you are talking about a boot less than $4000 which IIRC is what these are. In terms of Hungarian, I can't think of one that would offer this kind of finesse on the finishing. Sure there are a few who can do it, however you want both rugged yet refined.

How about Zonkey Boot? I've included both a photo of the boot as well as their SpTD. Here you can envision what the stitching may look like on these boots with that stitching.
View attachment 1401612 View attachment 1401613

I could see some people suggest Enzo Bonafe (EB which would be cheaper), but their boots are not as sophisticated as these are. Others may say Saint Crispin's (StC), however these have just that slight touch of panaché and would be slightly cheaper.

Incidentally, what's the price range?

$4000 is a bit too steep for me, but frankly I have all the shoes I *really* need.

I was hoping to stay somewhere in St.Crispins/Edward Green territory, but could be convinced to spend less, or possibly a bit more.

I’d also be happy to look outside Europe if you have any suggestions.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

$4000 is a bit too steep for me, but frankly I have all the shoes I *really* need.

I was hoping to stay somewhere in St.Crispins/Edward Green territory, but could be convinced to spend less, or possibly a bit more.

I’d also be happy to look outside Europe if you have any suggestions.

Honestly, you really get two critical points covered with Zonkey Boot.
A great looking boot, and a functional one. Throw in a fair price, and they are tough to beat.

I know Meccariello makes really nice boots, but they look more dressy than rugged. I feel like Zonkey Boot provides both.

I know Winson Shoemakers can make you an excellent boot. It would be MTM at around $600.

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That $2000-$3000 range (if I remember his prices well) would be T. Shirakashi. They are outside the price range, but can provide inspiration ??.

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I would post pictures from their respective IG sites, but I don't have IG ?.