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Split Toe Derby

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Does anyone own one of these SpTDs from Paul Stuart? Lars Split Toe Blucher. Made in Italy, blake stitched. Looks nice to me and the price seems good.

View attachment 1462193
Don't own it, but the implementation of a Blake construction will make it light as a feather.

Looks like a Blake version of the Sirio although it is a three eyelet design and stitching is different.
Screenshot_20200920-192544_Chrome.jpg
 
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BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Well as you guys know I'm always waxing poetic about Nicholas Templeman's SpTDs. Here are two pairs made for @jerrybrowne.

This one is the first pair of shoes he made for JerryBrowne and I'm quoting "when he [Templeman] was starting out."
20200928_232901.jpg


The second pair, again quoting, "Nick insisted on remaking them to make them perfect. The result" is the pair below.
20200928_232914.jpg
Screenshot_20200928-232330_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20200928-232354_Chrome.jpg
 

clee1982

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Didn’t he also say the first pair was done remotely?
 

dieworkwear

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One of the interesting things about bespoke split toes, or at least Nick's split toes, is that the center of the apron and split-toe seam are slightly offset from the center of the shoe.

Here's a pair of the EG Dovers pictured above. The apron and split-toe seam go straight down the middle of the shoe.


59C3FCD3-B4AE-44D4-93FB-5992CF622945.jpeg



Here's a pair of Jerry's split toes


Screenshot_20200928-232330_Chrome (1).jpg


If you look closely, the shape of the last goes straight down the middle, but the apron and split-toe seam are slightly angled outwards.

Screenshot_20200928-232330_Chrome.jpg


You can see it here. I've posted two photos because the lines somewhat make it clearer, but it's perhaps also easier to see without the lines.

tumblr_inline_odv70oLAM91qfex1b_540.jpg


This is also in my pair

tumblr_inline_odv70oLAM91qfex1b_540.jpg


As Nicholas explained to me, this is because the facings aren't actually even on a pair of bespoke shoes. One side is slightly higher than the other to account for the actual shape of your foot. If you draw a straight line down from the facings, they align with the split-toe seam and the center of the apron. But the actual last has to look even, so they point straight.

Anyway, not a detail that anyone would notice in real life, but something I found interesting when seeing bespoke split toes.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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One of the interesting things about bespoke split toes, or at least Nick's split toes, is that the center of the apron and split-toe seam are slightly offset from the center of the shoe.

Here's a pair of the EG Dovers pictured above. The apron and split-toe seam go straight down the middle of the shoe.


View attachment 1467428


Here's a pair of Jerry's split toes


View attachment 1467430

If you look closely, the shape of the last goes straight down the middle, but the apron and split-toe seam are slightly angled outwards.

View attachment 1467429

You can see it here. I've posted two photos because the lines somewhat make it clearer, but it's perhaps also easier to see without the lines.

View attachment 1467431

This is also in my pair

View attachment 1467432

As Nicholas explained to me, this is because the facings aren't actually even on a pair of bespoke shoes. One side is slightly higher than the other to account for the actual shape of your foot. If you draw a straight line down from the facings, they align with the split-toe seam and the center of the apron. But the actual last has to look even, so they point straight.

Anyway, not a detail that anyone would notice in real life, but something I found interesting when seeing bespoke split toes.
I'd be scared of the individual who would get close enough or be that curious to detect that.

Must be stated, that Nicholas is great in that he is responsive to what the client wants. He doesn't have a definitive SpTD style (i.e. the Dover). His "style" adapts to his client not the other way around. This is the sort of personalization that is critical towards a successful commission. Moreover, the superior service he offers (based on many of the positive comments posted about his work) and the commitment towards the pursuit of perfection (his personal high standards) is not commonly found.
 

acapaca

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The eyelets look misaligned on Jerry's new shoes, more so on the left one I think. I wonder if that's an artefact of the picture, or if not, if it's something that changes when the foot is inside.
 

saurabh

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Cross post from the Yeossal thread.
Just took delivery of the Yeossal - Thomson shoes (SpTD) and following are the specs:
Last: YC3 with 3 mm reduced instep.
Leather: Chestnut Utah (Hass Utah Grain Leather)
Size: 8UK/42
Sole: Leather (Black/Natural Color) + Metal Toe tips
Sole Shape: Spade
Heel: Tapered
Trees: Lasted shoes trees (Double Barrel Spring).
Extra: slight burnishing and shine on Toe/heel

Please Note pictures posted below are taken inside so they may look slightly darker than when taken outside.

0897EEE5-21AB-40DB-8A0E-454F1A7CD0F0.jpeg
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48BE2667-4B03-4A63-8B57-8DD319E14C60.jpeg
6FB4E864-51FA-4EB1-9137-22FCDE3E649C.jpeg
5158C58F-6637-420B-9190-F7A7D6B3C121.jpeg
2A6753A1-C2B3-43D2-BE32-D9BC7D004252.jpeg
C515BE73-F9C4-41CA-910B-1A7E3CAEF44B.jpeg
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8C6916DC-185E-43EC-90D2-1956408FEF20.jpeg
8DC00BF6-EA6D-4555-A949-9264EC1A6375.jpeg
0F19F910-5FD4-49A2-81BC-1DC295AE883E.jpeg
07D4CC0C-4D91-46BE-827B-3AB01EC53143.jpeg
AC87B200-B16A-4E41-855C-93796C35D91E.jpeg
4B8A9F08-F743-4E3A-B358-F2F80569C293.jpeg





My main concern was the fit and they fit perfect.
Good enough room in toe area and very good fit in length/heel/instep areas.


9B516B7A-689F-45D8-A0E2-C0D3A111CD9A.jpeg

C836890D-43C6-445C-8006-3D3E82CFCCDF.jpeg



I am glad i didn't order the SG65 last as that would have been tight for the toes for sure as i feel the toe area is very tapered on that last and i think YC3 last is better suited for SpTD.
The only negative thing i can say for this order is the burnishing was done darker than what i had asked for.
After wearing for few minutes i feel i am fine with that burnishing and can use some Saphir Reno. conditioner to lighten a bit in future. Overall i am very happy with the shoes and i highly recommend Yeossal Team and Jackson.
These Guys are fantastic !!
I will post more comparison pictures with EG SpTD and G&G SpTD as well sometime soon :)
 

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clee1982

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just realize you choose spade sole, so you went the "Dressier route on this one" (taperd heel/fiddleback/spade sole)?
 

saurabh

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just realize you choose spade sole, so you went the "Dressier route on this one" (taperd heel/fiddleback/spade sole)?
Not sure if I will call spade more dressier but I liked that design. Also, I don’t like round waist and I always like fiddleback waist like G&G more. Tapered heel was offered so why not :)
 

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