Split Toe Derby

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

for paraboot avigon is better for casual but as "all purpose" I prefer rousseau

I actually think that Paraboot Avignon is too casual. I'll concede it works with jeans, but not much else. Well, at least, not how @taxgenius plans on using them.

It does beg the question, why not purchase multiple SpTDs to serve multiple purposes (if the budget allows it)?

 

[kg13]

I actually think that Paraboot Avignon is too casual. I'll concede it works with jeans, but not much else. Well, at least, not how @taxgenius plans on using them.

It does beg the question, why not purchase multiple SpTDs to serve multiple purposes (if the budget allows it)?

That's a good point! I think one in a dressier leather + soft square / shapely round last and one in a casual style + round last would work really well ?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

That's a good point! I think one in a dressier leather + soft square / shapely round last and one in a casual style + round last would work really well ?

That was my thought.

If the budget was say $700 (which could be a stretch as Taxgenius mentioned the TLB and that is priced much lower than my proposed budget number), a CJ SpTD in a grain and the TLB in a suede may work. With sales or purchasing near mint second hand pairs should significantly lower the final outlay thereby allowing the purchase of multiple pairs.

 

[taxgenius]

Unfortunately don't know much about TLB, but those shoes you referenced look nice.

I like rounder, more casual lasts with jeans. For instance, in order of appearance: Crockett & Jones Cornhill, Crockett & Jones Durham, and Paraboot Avignon. A lot of the other split-toe models feel too dressy to me with denim.


View attachment 1736673 View attachment 1736674 View attachment 1736678

Since I don't know much about TLB, I can't really say how they compare to your Yoessals. However, here are some options around the price point you mentioned, along with some below for sake of inclusion.

View attachment 1736680


Meermin (about $200): A lot of split toes on the more affordable end of the market look ugly to me, such as Allen Edmonds' Delray. They have a flat, machine-sewn apron that I think makes the shoes look cheap. But given the price point, it's what you can often expect at this price tier.

IMO, Meermin's apron is a little better looking. Most of them are made on the Hiro last, which I think works with jeans or tailored trousers. Many Meermins can feel stiff at first, so expect a longer than usual break-in period.


View attachment 1736682 View attachment 1736681

Alden ($500-ish, or $300 through Shoe Mart's Factory Seconds): The trad options. They have two versions, including a U-tip and a pointier V-tip. I also think this works with jeans and tailored trousers but the style is very trad. You kind of have to love the sack coat, Ivy casual thing to wear these.


View attachment 1736673

Crockett & Jones ($550 ish): Lots of options, including the Cornhill, Durham, Hardwick, Balfour, and Wexford. In the past, Ben Silver carried the Cornhill and Durham. Cornhill is part of the handgrade line, so it features a handsewn apron and a channeled sole. I have the Cornhill and think it works with denim, although the Durham is more casual still because it's rounder.


View attachment 1736686 View attachment 1736685


Enzo Bonafe ($550 ish): Handwelted construction, handsewn aprons, and the ability to customize the design in almost any way you want. I particularly like the reverse split-toe construction shown on the second pair above, where the toe seam is hidden underneath the surface. Just gives the shoes a more discrete look.

These get into a sleeker last that I think works better with tailored clothing, not casualwear or jeans.


View attachment 1736687 View attachment 1736689


Vass ($750 ish): Just above your budget, but maybe worth including. Their Norweger really gets at the split-toes utilitarian roots (this style used to be a work shoe). Unlike most of the options above, these will be handwelted.

If you like that design, there’s also Crockett & Jones’ Moreton ($700). It differs from Vass in that it’s Goodyear welted, features a slightly cleaner looking apron, and has some decorative stitching around the heel. It’s only available in Japan, however.

Note, my prices may be off, as I haven't shopped for these in a while. But the prices are what I remember from about five years ago.

Thank you for such a detailed response. It does appear to me that it may not be possible to get one StD that would be both appropriate for slacks and sports coat and also jeans. I think the TLB Artista will fit the bill for dressier occasions but I will need something rounder and perhaps with some grain to pair with jeans.

 

[clee1982]

I actually think that Paraboot Avignon is too casual. I'll concede it works with jeans, but not much else. Well, at least, not how @taxgenius plans on using them.

It does beg the question, why not purchase multiple SpTDs to serve multiple purposes (if the budget allows it)?

is that what happened to you ?

 

[clee1982]

I dislike (or indifferent) to shell but here is paraboot rousseau in shell

Shell cordovan paraboot rousseau shoes brown derby splittoe 8,5/42,5 norwegian | eBay

Norwegian welted. Pair of Paraboot derby shoes, model 'Rousseau'. Paire de chaussures derby fabriquées en France par Paraboot, modèle"Rousseau".

www.ebay.com

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

is that what happened to you ?

Sadly yes. One quickly turns to 5 ??‍.

 

[konstantis]

Hello Kostas, not very chunky.

Regards

Thank you sir.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

As part of my Christmas presents I recieved these norwegers from A Fine Pair of Shoes. Berwick is building their reputation with solid made shoes in entry point prices. I own 4 pairs and find the brand highly recommended, their Madrid store is very nice.

I owned a pair in size 10UK (they where a tad snug) but gave them to my brother. Some weeks later I saw him wearing them and hurry for a pair in 10.5UK

Model: 2369-k1 (Norweger Derby)
Last: HO128
Welt: 360 but not as protruding as other country shoes
Sole: Vibram Commando (they call it Mountain)

Also pictures of comparison with Vass Norwegers, as you can see the Berwick have more vertical space.

 

[konstantis]

Hi , i am going to purchase a Vass Norwegers pair . I have a hard time to decide between their antique cognac scotchgrain and their dark brown suede. May i ask which one do you think would be more versatile and which one of those two leathers pairs better with the Norwegers style ? Thanks.

 

[Eucris]

Hi , i am going to purchase a Vass Norwegers pair . I have a hard time to decide between their antique cognac scotchgrain and their dark brown suede. May i ask which one do you think would be more versatile and which one of those two leathers pairs better with the Norwegers style ? Thanks.

Antique cognac scotchgrain

 

[konstantis]

Antique cognac scotchgrain

Thank you.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

As part of my Christmas presents I recieved these norwegers from A Fine Pair of Shoes. Berwick is building their reputation with solid made shoes in entry point prices. I own 4 pairs and find the brand highly recommended, their Madrid store is very nice.

I owned a pair in size 10UK (they where a tad snug) but gave them to my brother. Some weeks later I saw him wearing them and hurry for a pair in 10.5UK

Model: 2369-k1 (Norweger Derby)
Last: HO128
Welt: 360 but not as protruding as other country shoes
Sole: Vibram Commando (they call it Mountain)

Also pictures of comparison with Vass Norwegers, as you can see the Berwick have more vertical space.

View attachment 1741358 View attachment 1741359 View attachment 1741360 View attachment 1741361 View attachment 1741362 View attachment 1741363 View attachment 1741364

Nice to see something other than the usual suspects here. Moreover, not many have firsthand experience with the lesser known brands within the entry price point. ?

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

Hi , i am going to purchase a Vass Norwegers pair . I have a hard time to decide between their antique cognac scotchgrain and their dark brown suede. May i ask which one do you think would be more versatile and which one of those two leathers pairs better with the Norwegers style ? Thanks.

The antique cognac scotchgrain is quite versatile. Eventhough some SF members point out that suede can be used in any weather, I find scotchgrain more resistent to water and stains. I wouldn't go with suede shoes to watch a football match in a bar.

 

[konstantis]

The antique cognac scotchgrain is quite versatile. Eventhough some SF members point out that suede can be used in any weather, I find scotchgrain more resistent to water and stains. I wouldn't go with suede shoes to watch a football match in a bar.

Thank you very much.