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Split Toe Derby

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I find these shoes so unattractive. Funny design, but don't like the look. The example you posted looks better than what I've seen before though. I'll admit that!
"Unattractive" is sometimes part of the point.

 

Sutefan

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taxgenius

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I am looking to get a StD to match a "slacks and sports coat" for my eventual return to the office. I was considering the TLB Artista but was wondering whether it is substantially different than the brown Ardmore Split-Toe Single Monk shoes I already have? Are there better options in the same price range? Should I be thinking of burgundy or suede instead? Will this be versatile enough that I can even wear it casually (e.g., jeans)?

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Noblekostas

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I am looking to get a StD to match a "slacks and sports coat" for my eventual return to the office. I was considering the TLB Artista but was wondering whether it is substantially different than the brown Ardmore Split-Toe Single Monk shoes I already have? Are there better options in the same price range? Should I be thinking of burgundy or suede instead? Will this be versatile enough that I can even wear it casually (e.g., jeans)?

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Have you considered Scotchgrain?

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I think it’s great in a multitude of colors if you intend to wear them with jeans etc.
 

konstantis

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My new norwegers form Vass arrived yesterday. I am really happy with them, once I open the box I remembered why I enjoy shoes and love this rabbit hole.

I am glad that some of my money has gone to Vass during these horrible C-19 years. I hope the shoemaking craft we all praise and love will survive when we return to normality.

Model: Norweger
Colour: Antique cognac scotchgrain
Welt: 270
Sole: Vibram Commando
Last: P

The last picture shows my little Vass parade, suede, scotchgrain, calf and calf for backup.


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Hi. May I ask how do you find the norwegers form Vass with commando soles ? Are they much more chunky than the ones with leather soles ? Thanks.
 

norMD

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I am looking to get a StD to match a "slacks and sports coat" for my eventual return to the office. I was considering the TLB Artista but was wondering whether it is substantially different than the brown Ardmore Split-Toe Single Monk shoes I already have? Are there better options in the same price range? Should I be thinking of burgundy or suede instead? Will this be versatile enough that I can even wear it casually (e.g., jeans)?

View attachment 1735868
I think a StD in dark brown suede or grain would be most versatile and complement the smooth leather monks you already own.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I am looking to get a StD to match a "slacks and sports coat" for my eventual return to the office. I was considering the TLB Artista but was wondering whether it is substantially different than the brown Ardmore Split-Toe Single Monk shoes I already have? Are there better options in the same price range? Should I be thinking of burgundy or suede instead? Will this be versatile enough that I can even wear it casually (e.g., jeans)?

View attachment 1735868
I think a StD in dark brown suede or grain would be most versatile and complement the smooth leather monks you already own.
I would agree with @norMD here. A Polo or Darker (not black or dark chocolate) -- preference towards Mink -- sueded SpTD or a softer textured grain (think Utah leather) would be excellent versatile choices. Either would look different enough from those monks as well.
 

dieworkwear

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I am looking to get a StD to match a "slacks and sports coat" for my eventual return to the office. I was considering the TLB Artista but was wondering whether it is substantially different than the brown Ardmore Split-Toe Single Monk shoes I already have? Are there better options in the same price range? Should I be thinking of burgundy or suede instead? Will this be versatile enough that I can even wear it casually (e.g., jeans)?

View attachment 1735868
Unfortunately don't know much about TLB, but those shoes you referenced look nice.

I like rounder, more casual lasts with jeans. For instance, in order of appearance: Crockett & Jones Cornhill, Crockett & Jones Durham, and Paraboot Avignon. A lot of the other split-toe models feel too dressy to me with denim.


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Since I don't know much about TLB, I can't really say how they compare to your Yoessals. However, here are some options around the price point you mentioned, along with some below for sake of inclusion.

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Meermin (about $200): A lot of split toes on the more affordable end of the market look ugly to me, such as Allen Edmonds' Delray. They have a flat, machine-sewn apron that I think makes the shoes look cheap. But given the price point, it's what you can often expect at this price tier.

IMO, Meermin's apron is a little better looking. Most of them are made on the Hiro last, which I think works with jeans or tailored trousers. Many Meermins can feel stiff at first, so expect a longer than usual break-in period.


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Alden ($500-ish, or $300 through Shoe Mart's Factory Seconds): The trad options. They have two versions, including a U-tip and a pointier V-tip. I also think this works with jeans and tailored trousers but the style is very trad. You kind of have to love the sack coat, Ivy casual thing to wear these.


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Crockett & Jones ($550 ish): Lots of options, including the Cornhill, Durham, Hardwick, Balfour, and Wexford. In the past, Ben Silver carried the Cornhill and Durham. Cornhill is part of the handgrade line, so it features a handsewn apron and a channeled sole. I have the Cornhill and think it works with denim, although the Durham is more casual still because it's rounder.


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Enzo Bonafe ($550 ish): Handwelted construction, handsewn aprons, and the ability to customize the design in almost any way you want. I particularly like the reverse split-toe construction shown on the second pair above, where the toe seam is hidden underneath the surface. Just gives the shoes a more discrete look.

These get into a sleeker last that I think works better with tailored clothing, not casualwear or jeans.


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Vass ($750 ish): Just above your budget, but maybe worth including. Their Norweger really gets at the split-toes utilitarian roots (this style used to be a work shoe). Unlike most of the options above, these will be handwelted.

If you like that design, there’s also Crockett & Jones’ Moreton ($700). It differs from Vass in that it’s Goodyear welted, features a slightly cleaner looking apron, and has some decorative stitching around the heel. It’s only available in Japan, however.

Note, my prices may be off, as I haven't shopped for these in a while. But the prices are what I remember from about five years ago.
 

Jmr928

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View attachment 1736687 View attachment 1736689


Vass ($750 ish): Just above your budget, but maybe worth including. Their Norweger really gets at the split-toes utilitarian roots (this style used to be a work shoe). Unlike most of the options above, these will be handwelted.

If you like that design, there’s also Crockett & Jones’ Moreton ($700). It differs from Vass in that it’s Goodyear welted, features a slightly cleaner looking apron, and has some decorative stitching around the heel. It’s only available in Japan, however.

Note, my prices may be off, as I haven't shopped for these in a while. But the prices are what I remember from about five years ago.
Good list overall - an addendum - Vass started selling direct a couple years back. Should be about $550 or so including shipping and trees now.
 

clee1982

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for paraboot avigon is better for casual but as "all purpose" I prefer rousseau
 

kg13

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Hi DWW! Super cool list. What do you think about the Golf Derby? I think it feels pretty similar to the Norweger (but cuter) haha

And how would you wear shell split toes in a round casual last?
 

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