SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[FlyingHorker]

Neapolitan tailors do whatever the **** their clients want. /thread

Excellent.

If I ever get the chance, I'll whip it out and tell my tailor to have my lapels longer than my member.

No one will ever expect that I'm over-compensating!

 

[afterthesuit]

Excellent.

If I ever get the chance, I'll whip it out and tell my tailor to have my lapels longer than my member.

No one will ever expect that I'm over-compensating!

not with 4" lapels, that's for sure

 

[induere_to]

 

[Torzano]

Man these full canvas suits hit all the sartorial notes. I have two neo suits in the same colors from v1 and v2. I was thinking those would be my staples for the rest of my life! Now I have to reconsider trading up.

 

[Thilgela]

@SpierTeam will the boxing/Christmas day sale apply to full canvas suits/MTO suits or will they still be excluded?

Trying to gauge if I should pull the triggers now.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Excellent.

If I ever get the chance, I'll whip it out and tell my tailor to have my lapels longer than my member.

No one will ever expect that I'm over-compensating!

Now is also a good time to beat my dead horse and point out, once again, that the “Neapolitan cut” is actually more Florentine.

And those jackets tend to hover around 4”:

Permanent Style

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[FlyingHorker]

Now is also a good time to beat my dead horse and point out, once again, that the “Neapolitan cut” is actually more Florentine.

And those jackets tend to hover around 4”:

Permanent Style

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Interesting, that's good to know.

Is there an actual "Neapolitan" cut?

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Interesting, that's good to know.

Is there an actual "Neapolitan" cut?

I think DieWorkwear has written a lot about this and the answer is basically “no?” As I understand it the modern “Neapolitan cut” is just characterized by a wider lapel, more open quarters, and a soft or unpadded shoulder with pleating in some form (camicia, morbida, insellata, rollino, rigatoni, whatever). But things like lapel shape, gorge height, shoulder extension seem to vary wildly. And my understanding is that the previous comments about earlier Neapolitan jackets (eg Attolini, Rubinacci Sr.) having a more standard lapel width are basically correct: in the 1950s(?) Attolini et al just took the more modest English jacket and ripped all the padding and guts out of it to suit their environment.

Still, I think the Neo cut that Spier produces is closer to Florence. I’ve only ever seen that intense negative belly paired with the hard 3r2.5 on Florentine jackets. I’d guess the “Neapolitan” association comes from Ciongoli’s Eidos (owned by Naples-based Isaia) jacket patterns, which are just riffs on Liverano.

I don’t profess to be an expert on this ****, but that’s my reading.

 

[patliean1]

and a soft or unpadded shoulder with pleating in some form (camicia, morbida, insellata, rollino, rigatoni, whatever).

Any idea which brands or shops offer rigatoni shoulder pleating? Asking for a friend...

 

[norMD]

Any idea which brands or shops offer rigatoni shoulder pleating? Asking for a friend...

You have to ask for the full suit.

Spoiler: Rigatoni suit

 

[induere_to]

Attolini’s tucks would fall into the skirting of a jacket, but Florentine jackets are referenced to not have any darting on the front panel of their jackets at all.

Spier does neither.

Honestly speaking tho, Spier’s Neapolitan cut is actually Chinese ?.

 

[Pepetito]

Sure wish all size 15 oxfords didn't sell out within days....

 

[Claghorn]

What I wore from last week. New jacket, Neapolitan lapels but not shoulders

 

[dluce76]

What I wore from last week. New jacket, Neapolitan lapels but not shoulders

View attachment 1297458

Nice! Was this MTO or MTM? What kind of shoulder is it, the same as non-neo? I was thinking of doing that for my next MTO jacket.

 

[yungchomsky]

Love wearing the brown cord suit as separates — today in the ecru OCBD and brown cord trousers.