SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[MellonC]

Already a customer at Sam Hober....

 

[Eli Curt]

Once again, you people are just full of info. Many thanks for the opinions.

Getting back to the lapel width issue, I get that S&M uses 3.5 inch and 4 inch lapels, which is on the new full canvas suits. I personally think pushing 4 inches is a bit much but 1/2 inch won't break many style points, I guess. What about the tie width??? S&M offer ties at 3.1 inch width. Don't you guys think it's a bit narrow for the lapel at 4 inches??? Look at the dude pictured above. He has a rather large lapel, normal width tie (probably matching his lapel width), and a thick large Italian spread on his shirt. Everything works together....

My point, when designers roll out new garments and items, there is a reason why they call it a "collection." They all jive together. Just think about how frumpy you would look with a 4 inch lapel suit and 3 inch inch tie in a full windsor knot. It won't look like this guy above for sure.

Let's switch over to cm, since that's how many European tailoring houses will measure these points.

We're essentially discussing whether the lapels are 9cm or 10cm. Both are done, and depending on who you ask, some may be done more than others. We won't get into that.

With ties, 10cm ties were the standard for a while (think 70's, or think of many vintage Ralph Lauren ties that litter secondhand stores, both brick & mortar and on the web), but when the fashion pendulum swung all the way back to right field, skinny ties were suddenly everywhere and many were, literally, half of that @ 5cm.

Now, it's not abnormal to see ties from top tailoring houses varying between 8cm & 10cm. Just last week I took delivery of 20 ties from a certain Neapolitan tiemaker and they measure 8.5cm. I have ties from Isaia @ 8cm that I'll wear with my S&M Neo suit (10cm lapels) and as long as the tie material and interliner allow you to make a nice knot, it shouldn't look insignifcant, even when paired with a 10cm lapel.

I'd like to hear @vriche weigh in on this issue - I know he has some rules that pertain to lapel, collar & tie proportions.

 

[Viatu]

I like wide lapels. I also have a 52 inch chest.

 

[MellonC]

 

[vriche]

Let's switch over to cm, since that's how many European tailoring houses will measure these points.

We're essentially discussing whether the lapels are 9cm or 10cm. Both are done, and depending on who you ask, some may be done more than others. We won't get into that.

With ties, 10cm ties were the standard for a while (think 70's, or think of many vintage Ralph Lauren ties that litter secondhand stores, both brick & mortar and on the web), but when the fashion pendulum swung all the way back to right field, skinny ties were suddenly everywhere and many were, literally, half of that @ 5cm.

Now, it's not abnormal to see ties from top tailoring houses varying between 8cm & 10cm. Just last week I took delivery of 20 ties from a certain Neapolitan tiemaker and they measure 8.5cm. I have ties from Isaia @ 8cm that I'll wear with my S&M Neo suit (10cm lapels) and as long as the tie material and interliner allow you to make a nice knot, it shouldn't look insignifcant, even when paired with a 10cm lapel.

I'd like to hear @vriche weigh in on this issue - I know he has some rules that pertain to lapel, collar & tie proportions.

I don’t know if I would call them rules per se but just what I like and what looks right to my eyes. But I’m not breaking any new ground here and I didn’t make these things up but I think that your chest size, lapels and tie width should be proportional. For example, my S&M RTW jacket size is a 46, 45 in MTO. So the lapels are probably around 4.25” or so. And I prefer for my ties to be 3.5” to 3.75” at the widest.

So they don’t have to match exactly but they’re less than an inch apart.

 

[Viatu]

View attachment 1297093

I'm more like the Black version of this guy ?

 

[DFWWingnut]

I'm more like the Black version of this guy ?

If Jumbalaya could speak it would sound like Coach O,

 

[up1911fan]

All Spier up top.

0

 

[Johnsson]

My point, when designers roll out new garments and items, there is a reason why they call it a "collection." They all jive together. Just think about how frumpy you would look with a 4 inch lapel suit and 3 inch inch tie in a full windsor knot. It won't look like this guy above for sure.

Sorry, I cringed reading this. What designer collections aren't collections of abominations? I can definitely get behind Tom Ford's opulence, but half of his stuff is whack. I can't think of a designer that we ought to take cues from.

I think there's an ideal proportion of lapel width to chest width, and that lands around 4" on me, typically with a 3.33 - 3.55" tie. It's a sliver wider than average, but I think it gives the lapel room to roll, while hitting the sweet spot between the chest and the shoulder. YMMV.

 

[A.D.]

Regarding the lapels, 4" sounds like a dream for me. I really love the style of wider lapels, and even though they obviously don't equal a higher degree of craftsmanship by default, a wider lapel does carry an air of quality in my opinion, as they are so absent in lower quality RTW.

 

[FlyingHorker]

3.5-3.75" wide lapels are perfect for my small frame. Which is where S&M's standard sport coat cut lies for me.

 

[RyanChiato]

Exchanges: how long has it taken in your experience from shipping back to Spier to receiving your new package? wanted a real world estimation thanks guys

 

[Spaghettimatt]

In this thread: the blind lead the blind.

 

[FlyingHorker]

In this thread: the blind lead the blind.

So open some eyes Plato, posting like a knob is not helping anyone.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

So open some eyes Plato, posting like a knob is not helping anyone.

Neapolitan tailors do whatever the **** their clients want. /thread