SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Eli Curt]

Bought the neo jacket on Black Friday/Cyber Monday......but got sent a "normal cut" jacket. I'll say, I don't mind the core-cut. What do yall think? Do the fabrics match? I think they match well enough for me... @spiermackay or @SpierTeam
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Honestly, as I don my flame marsupialant suit, and slowly back away from the mob, I think I prefer you in this cut to the neo.

I can't quite verbalize my reasoning, but this quite flattering.

It also may be that I can see your face.

 

[pickergc]

Is that the mid grey flannel.

Yes VBC mid grey

 

[dluce76]

Honestly, as I don my flame marsupialant suit, and slowly back away from the mob, I think I prefer you in this cut to the neo.

I can't quite verbalize my reasoning, but this quite flattering.

It also may be that I can see your face.

Ah gotta say I like neo better for @pickergc...but, I'm a die-hard neo convert, so I may be biased.

 

[Ebichuman]

Neo works for some but not others. It doesn’t work for me well - in it, I look like I have child bearing hips. I think pickergc is also better served by the traditional cut.

 

[Eli Curt]

Neo works for some but not others. It doesn’t work for me well - in it, I look like I have child bearing hips. I think pickergc is also better served by the traditional cut.

In some cultures, that's a blessing.

 

[yungchomsky]

Received some of the new OCBDs today, very happy with them. Here’s an ecru OCBD, as well as Spier chinos and jacket.

 

[MellonC]

Either way, the neo cut with wider lapels have been very popular here. If you don’t like them, simply don’t buy them.

Some people do prefer wider lapels.

Thanks for stating the obvious. I thought I’d discuss it a bit as this is a discussion board.

 

[SJR3]

Thanks for stating the obvious. I thought I’d discuss it a bit as this is a discussion board.

I like the aesthetic of relatively wide lapels. Skinny lapels look wimpy and boring to me. I consider anything less than 3.75 inches on a size 40 to be skinny. 4 inches isn't really all the wide. Wider than the lapels on most RTW jackets of the last 5-10 years? Sure. But only because we are barely in the recovery stage from the skinny lapel trend. In other words, S&M is smart to refer to their lapels as "wide" from a marketing perspective, even though all that's really happening is we are leaving behind a previous trend--narrow lapels. Are so called "wide" lapels just the latest trend, or are they a return to a more traditional width? I don't know. I guess time will tell. I'm 31 and have been into classic menswear for less than a decade, so I have limited experience with trends. What is the classical average of lapel widths for the Western suit/jacket since its inception? I'd bet it's close to what you call "wide".

I think S&M has the right approach to lapel size on the Neo and now the full canvas jackets. They extend about two thirds of the way to the shoulder seam. Great gorge placement and notch shape, too. In a time where sports like Crossfit and powerlifting are more popular than ever, and guys in general are hitting the weights and staying in shape, it's about time we ditched the skinny lapels. Those only looked okay on waifish, malnourished runway models. And that look, too, has gone out of style.

 

[Eli Curt]

I like the aesthetic of relatively wide lapels. Skinny lapels look wimpy and boring to me. I consider anything less than 3.75 inches on a size 40 to be skinny. 4 inches isn't really all the wide. Wider than the lapels on most RTW jackets of the last 5-10 years? Sure. But only because we are barely in the recovery stage from the skinny lapel trend. In other words, S&M is smart to refer to their lapels as "wide" from a marketing perspective, even though all that's really happening is we are leaving behind a previous trend--narrow lapels. Are so called "wide" lapels just the latest trend, or are they a return to a more traditional width? I don't know. I guess time will tell. I'm 31 and have been into classic menswear for less than a decade, so I have limited experience with trends. What is the classical average of lapel widths for the Western suit/jacket since its inception? I'd bet it's close to what you call "wide".

I think S&M has the right approach to lapel size on the Neo and now the full canvas jackets. They extend about two thirds of the way to the shoulder seam. Great gorge placement and notch shape, too. In a time where sports like Crossfit and powerlifting are more popular than ever, and guys in general are hitting the weights and staying in shape, it's about time we ditched the skinny lapels. Those only looked okay on waifish, malnourished runway models. And that look, too, has gone out of style.

Many traditional neapolitan tailors generally set their lapels around 3.5".

All of my Kiton, Isaia and Partenopea jackets are 3.5". My S&M are wider, though it isn't a very noticeable difference.

I do have a jacket from Abla (Attolini) that's 4".

 

[SJR3]

Many yraditional neapolitan tailors generally set their lapels around 3.5".

All of my Kiton, Isaia and Partenopea jackets are 3.5". My S&M are wider, though it isn't a very noticeable difference.

I do have a jacket from Abla (Attolini) that's 4".

A few things.

First of all, I'm not saying that "traditional Neapolitan tailors" are the gold standard, be-all and end-all.

Second, I don't know where you get your statistic from that "many traditional Neapolitan tailors generally set their lapels around 3.5." Even if I were to pretend this is the case, there are plenty who don't. Orazio Luciano is just one example that comes to mind.

Spoiler

Any of the Italian brands NMWA carries also feature substantial lapels.

 

[Eli Curt]

A few things.

First of all, I'm not saying that "traditional Neapolitan tailors" are the gold standard, be-all and end-all.

Second, I don't know where you get your statistic from that "many traditional Neapolitan tailors generally set their lapels around 3.5." Even if I were to pretend this is the case, there are plenty who don't. Orazio Luciano is just one example that comes to mind.

Spoiler

Any of the Italian brands NMWA carries also feature substantial lapels.

1. Isn't the cut called "Neapolitan"?
2. This is a sampling of my own experience across multiple tailors. Of course, YMMV.

 

[SJR3]

1. Isn't the cut called "Neapolitan"?
2. This is a sampling of my own experience across multiple tailors. Of course, YMMV.

I'm simply referring to lapel width in my previous rambling. Nothing to do with Neapolitan tailoring, except to say that I generally like the size of S&M's "Neapolitan" lapels--but also their latest "full canvas" suits, and if they want to get away from the Neapolitan marketing label, I think that's a great idea, actually.

 

[sao]

just a product idea request for next winter: Wool down puffer vest

 

[MellonC]

1. Isn't the cut called "Neapolitan"?
2. This is a sampling of my own experience across multiple tailors. Of course, YMMV.

A few things.

First of all, I'm not saying that "traditional Neapolitan tailors" are the gold standard, be-all and end-all.

Second, I don't know where you get your statistic from that "many traditional Neapolitan tailors generally set their lapels around 3.5." Even if I were to pretend this is the case, there are plenty who don't. Orazio Luciano is just one example that comes to mind.

Spoiler

Any of the Italian brands NMWA carries also feature substantial lapels.

Once again, you people are just full of info. Many thanks for the opinions.

Getting back to the lapel width issue, I get that S&M uses 3.5 inch and 4 inch lapels, which is on the new full canvas suits. I personally think pushing 4 inches is a bit much but 1/2 inch won't break many style points, I guess. What about the tie width??? S&M offer ties at 3.1 inch width. Don't you guys think it's a bit narrow for the lapel at 4 inches??? Look at the dude pictured above. He has a rather large lapel, normal width tie (probably matching his lapel width), and a thick large Italian spread on his shirt. Everything works together....

My point, when designers roll out new garments and items, there is a reason why they call it a "collection." They all jive together. Just think about how frumpy you would look with a 4 inch lapel suit and 3 inch inch tie in a full windsor knot. It won't look like this guy above for sure.

 

[Thilgela]

Once again, you people are just full of info. Many thanks for the opinions.

Getting back to the lapel width issue, I get that S&M uses 3.5 inch and 4 inch lapels, which is on the new full canvas suits. I personally think pushing 4 inches is a bit much but 1/2 inch won't break many style points, I guess. What about the tie width??? S&M offer ties at 3.1 inch width. Don't you guys think it's a bit narrow for the lapel at 4 inches??? Look at the dude pictured above. He has a rather large lapel, normal width tie (probably matching his lapel width), and a thick large Italian spread on his shirt. Everything works together....

My point, when designers roll out new garments and items, there is a reason why they call it a "collection." They all jive together. Just think about how frumpy you would look with a 4 inch lapel suit and 3 inch inch tie in a full windsor knot. It won't look like this guy above for sure.

Well, you can get 3.5-3.75 inch wide ties easily if you browse this forum frequently (Sam Hober). The point of matching is not that stringent.

Check out Hugo Jacomet, his lapels almost all touch his shoulder bones, and does he wear a tie as wide as his lapels? No. You can match your tie width with your shirt collar point length as well.

The point is, you need to look at proportions not the exact inches. You can create a great outfit with 4 inch lapels if you know where to look. Same goes for 3.5/5 inch lapels, whatever.

A well studied person won't wear "a 4 inch lapel suit and 3 inch inch tie in a full windsor knot".