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UncommonSequel

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Anyone have experience with last years seersucker field jacket? Fit, fabric, etc?


Wondering if it's best to wait for the newly previewed minnis model, styling looks very similar between the two.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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Lots of new outerwear in previews. I've never even heard of a teba jacket before...

That's because you're not a member of Spain's pre civil war landowning aristocracy, at least according to the heritage lore provided by Mark Cho.

Jokes aside, why does this thing need to exist? We already have chore coats, work shirts, and overshirts; how granular do we really need to get in the space between sportcoats and t-shirts, really?
 

UncommonSequel

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No but I got a linen version from last year and the armholes were too low.
Ahh, that's a shame to hear. Hopefully they've fix it for this year!

Although I noticed that the linen field jackets had a different size chart, so perhaps they were cut with lower armholes than the other field jackets.
 

espen

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That's because you're not a member of Spain's pre civil war landowning aristocracy, at least according to the heritage lore provided by Mark Cho.

Jokes aside, why does this thing need to exist? We already have chore coats, work shirts, and overshirts; how granular do we really need to get in the space between sportcoats and t-shirts, really?

Because Spier isn't about doing a couple things well, rather it wants to do everything below par.
 

St1X

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Because Spier isn't about doing a couple things well, rather it wants to do everything below par.
You can't do well at their price point. They offer best value for the money and their full canvas jackets/suits are phenomenal at those prices. But they cut corners to get down to that pricing level
 

ericgereghty

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Because Spier isn't about doing a couple things well, rather it wants to do everything below par.
This is just silly.
You can't do well at their price point. They offer best value for the money and their full canvas jackets/suits are phenomenal at those prices. But they cut corners to get down to that pricing level
This is certainly less silly, and has some obviously needed nuance. I'm curious, since this sounds to be both critique and praise (decidedly more of the latter), where do you find that SM cuts corners? Assuming we're talking tailoring/tailoring adjacent gear here. I've no experience with their casual goods, so couldn't comment one way or the other.
 

espen

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I’m not suggesting Spier cuts corners. But is now beholden to odd whims of fancy with product lines that are neither pushing the brand forward, or challenging customers with new original ideas. I guarantee a Teba or Harrington will not be their defining piece even in 2 years.
 

ericgereghty

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I’m not suggesting Spier cuts corners. But is now beholden to odd whims of fancy with product lines that are neither pushing the brand forward, or challenging customers with new original ideas. I guarantee a Teba or Harrington will not be their defining piece even in 2 years.
1. you'll note that reply wasn't directed to your comment.
2. The above is hardly unreasonable. Hell, I agree. It is, however, decidedly less silly than "they just do everything bad."
 

espen

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Completely fair point. I may have over reached a little bit, but as a long-time S&M buyer, the last couple of years have felt like the plot has been lost. It’s truly a bummer—quality and customer service issues are two things I’ve never experienced to be clear. My concern has always been product mix. The ethos behind the mix now feel like an attempt at being the “everything” store.

No doubt this goes with the territory, but it feels like Spier has been caught appealing to IG posts, and the echoes of this forum wanting X for less. It’s a twofold problem (what’s the worst thing about the Grateful Dead? The fans)
 

sydneycider

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I’m not suggesting Spier cuts corners. But is now beholden to odd whims of fancy with product lines that are neither pushing the brand forward, or challenging customers with new original ideas. I guarantee a Teba or Harrington will not be their defining piece even in 2 years.
Yeah... S&M has the best value for money in tailoring, their knitwear so far has been fantastic IMO, and they do some pretty solid shirts and trousers.

But then they just add bloat like down vests, harringtons, tracksuits, wax jackets, and elastane drawstring trousers. The market for these products is already completely saturated. I shop at S&M because it was so hard to find southern Italian tailoring, oxford shirts with a 3.5 inch collar, and classic knitwear anywhere else.

That being said, the teba is overdue. The Armoury's City Hunter jacket rocks and a teba is the perfect middle between tailoring and casualwear, moreso than a chore coat IMO.
 

DapperPhilly

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S&M mto SC, New linen/cotton oxford, S&M pants. Kent Wang grenadine tie

fullsizeoutput_1d06.jpeg
fullsizeoutput_1d0a.jpeg
 

gimpwiz

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I have a wool field jacket. Size "XS," rather than 34/36/38/etc. From a few years ago, they don't make that color anymore, but it seems about the same as the current field jackets in terms of construction. I haven't tried the cotton/seersucker/linen field jackets.

The armhole is in fact oddly low. Not just the bottom of the armhole, but the top, too. The armhole size is totally fine and I get a good range of motion, but I regularly try to put my arm in ... above where the hole actually is. Used to be every time when I got it, now it's more like once every three or four wears, I try to put my arm in where it can't go.

But other than that, I've been rocking mine for much of the winter, and enjoying it.

Would I buy one in linen? No. Seersucker? Also no. I feel like wool is the right choice, for me. For someone else, no real opinion.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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Completely fair point. I may have over reached a little bit, but as a long-time S&M buyer, the last couple of years have felt like the plot has been lost.

Yeah... S&M has the best value for money in tailoring, their knitwear so far has been fantastic IMO, and they do some pretty solid shirts and trousers.

But then they just add bloat like down vests, harringtons, tracksuits, wax jackets, and elastane drawstring trousers. The market for these products is already completely saturated. I shop at S&M because it was so hard to find southern Italian tailoring, oxford shirts with a 3.5 inch collar, and classic knitwear anywhere else.

The first things I got from SM were of course a suit, a sweater, and some MTO shirts and polos, back when this was all they had. They were incredible bang for buck...but then things kinda went sideways after COVID. It's almost as if they caught lighting in a bottle with the traditional tailoring and broke the "good-cheap-fast choose two" model but are having trouble repeating the formula for anything else. At this point, most of their non-tailoring inventory, except for sweaters, is, to put it bluntly, just a knockoff of something that I can get the brand-name version of for like $50 - $100 more.

Other tailoring-centric shops that popped up following the #menswear crazy, e.g. Armoury, don't bother are not boxed in by the "cheap" constraint and have more room to maneuver given their less price-sensitive clientele, and are thus able to pivot less awkwardly.

That being said, the teba is overdue. The Armoury's City Hunter jacket rocks and a teba is the perfect middle between tailoring and casualwear, moreso than a chore coat IMO.

I wonder if Mark Cho knows that he's basically SM's creative director at this point... Jokes aside, if I were Rick and I had to pick someone to knock off, it'd def be Armoury / Drake's, simply because they've gotten so overpriced that any alternative is instantly more appealing. Between an SM wax jacket vs the brand name B-word one that costs $80 more, I might be inclined to go with the brand name, but an SM teba for $200 when Armoury wants like $1200 for a glorified shirt and, well, sorry Mark I'm not making oligarch level money yet.
 

sydneycider

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The first things I got from SM were of course a suit, a sweater, and some MTO shirts and polos, back when this was all they had. They were incredible bang for buck...but then things kinda went sideways after COVID. It's almost as if they caught lighting in a bottle with the traditional tailoring and broke the "good-cheap-fast choose two" model but are having trouble repeating the formula for anything else. At this point, most of their non-tailoring inventory, except for sweaters, is, to put it bluntly, just a knockoff of something that I can get the brand-name version of for like $50 - $100 more.

Other tailoring-centric shops that popped up following the #menswear crazy, e.g. Armoury, don't bother are not boxed in by the "cheap" constraint and have more room to maneuver given their less price-sensitive clientele, and are thus able to pivot less awkwardly.



I wonder if Mark Cho knows that he's basically SM's creative director at this point... Jokes aside, if I were Rick and I had to pick someone to knock off, it'd def be Armoury / Drake's, simply because they've gotten so overpriced that any alternative is instantly more appealing. Between an SM wax jacket vs the brand name B-word one that costs $80 more, I might be inclined to go with the brand name, but an SM teba for $200 when Armoury wants like $1200 for a glorified shirt and, well, sorry Mark I'm not making oligarch level money yet.
Yep, I shop at S&M because I want to look like I shop at Drakes / The Armoury without the hefty price tag. Drakes in particular has really lost the plot with pricing ($400 AUD for an OCBD? c'mon Mark).

Mark Cho is a really amazing creative director though, and I'm glad his influence has trickled down to more affordable brands. The prices that he charges though are just ridiculous, I guess you pay for the styling and creative process.
 

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