SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[classicoutfits]

Fused and half canvas isn't the same thing though. The difference between half and full canvas is the length/reach of the canvas inside the fabric. None of them are fused however, I believe.

That’s also my understanding

 

[DonRaphael]

But IIRC last year the fully canvas premium fabric suits were the same prices as this half canvas option. I get it inflation and all but that's a tough pill to swallow. I've done a lot of MTM w/ S&M, on the fence about if I'll ever do it again due to the issues w items not being made to spec and just the jankiness of the web interface (why oh why would we want to MTM so many similar bottom tier fabrics?! I think people would buy more if there were fewer, more distinct options).

FW jacketing is always great. But most companies do a tremendous job w/ FW collections. It's in many ways easier to pull off. Having better quality 4-season and S/S stuff is more challenging. I'm looking at stuff trickling out at another (more expensive) AV and it's just meh so far. The SS sportcoats this season for S&M give me some hope.

I agree to some extent. But isn't Crispaire more expensive than Minnis also? That might be a part of it as well in addition to general inflation.

I'm not a SS SC kind of guy, so I couldn't care less for SS offerings tbh, but I get your point.

 

[tmckay2]

I'm about the same build as you and I go for the large. I fit into the medium but it's quite tight and a wash made it unwearable.

Thank you!

 

[St1X]

Fused and half canvas isn't the same thing though. The difference between half and full canvas is how far the canvas extends inside the fabric. None of them are fused however, I believe.

Unfortunately that's not true. If you'll take a half canvas jacket from Spier or Suitsupply, or Pini Parma, or a bunch of other makers and look behind the canvas, you'll see the whole panel where a full canvas should be, covered with a fabric fusing to facilitate drape. That's why half canvased jackets quite often look better than some super 150 full canvased. While I don't mind half canvased jackets, I wouldn't pay more than 300$ for them

 

[TheLawBeard]

Would definitely also like to see “better” options in the MTO section. I know they can source things but it’s also a bit disappointing digging through the MTO offerings. It’d be really great to see more Dugdale, Fox, and other high end mills offered.

But I guess that’s also moot if they don’t get their production/spec issues worked out.

 

[DonRaphael]

Unfortunately that's not true. If you'll take a half canvas jacket from Spier or Suitsupply, or Pini Parma, or a bunch of other makers and look behind the canvas, you'll see the whole panel where a full canvas should be, covered with a fabric fusing to facilitate drape. That's why half canvased jackets quite often look better that some super 150 full canvased. While I don't mind half canvased jackets, I wouldn't pay more than 300$ for them

Interesting. But I'm not sure though that this is the case for all half canvas jackets? Might be for some makers/brands. But technically, there's a difference between fused and canvas. I'll have to check my Spier jackets tomorrow.

 

[Commonbloke]

Unfortunately that's not true. If you'll take a half canvas jacket from Spier or Suitsupply, or Pini Parma, or a bunch of other makers and look behind the canvas, you'll see the whole panel where a full canvas should be, covered with a fabric fusing to facilitate drape. That's why half canvased jackets quite often look better that some super 150 full canvased. While I don't mind half canvased jackets, I wouldn't pay more than 300$ for them

Not an expert but a quick check on this jacket seems to contradict that statement. I was able to pass finger pretty far and did not feel any glue.

My understand as that they use some minor fusing for certain part of the jacket. I might be wrong.

 

[St1X]

Interesting. But I'm not sure though that this is the case for all half canvas jackets? Might be for some makers/brands. But technically, there's a difference between fused and canvas. I'll have to check my Spier jackets tomorrow.

I can't speak about all makers, but Spier, Suitsupply, Pini Parma definitely have fusing in their half canvas jackets

 

[St1X]

Not an expert but a quick check on this jacket seems to contradict that statement. I was able to pass finger pretty far and did not feel any glue.

My understand as that they use some minor fusing for certain part of the jacket. I might be wrong.

Nice! That must be some heavyweight tweed? It doesn't really need neither fusing nor canvas to drape well. Check something lightweight instead. I am not at home to show you photos

 

[blewnote1]

The fused half canvas jackets are the worst thing out there. It's a half way measure that solves no problems, but adds to the cost. For that matter makers can do a quarter canvas and put it around lapels only to facilitate the lapel roll and decrease costs a bit more

This statement is at odds with basically everything I've read about fused vs half vs full. Fused is not ideal, but apparently much better than it used to be. Half canvas offers a significant reduction in cost over full canvas and performs adequately for most people.

What makes you think otherwise?

In regards to the Clissold suit in question, is the fabric significantly more expensive than Minnis fresco lite? The full canvas Minnis suits from last year dropped at $598. This half canvas Clissold is listed at $648. I know prices have gone up, but that seems like quite a jump.

 

[Commonbloke]

Nice! That must be some heavyweight tweed? It doesn't really need neither fusing nor canvas to drape well. Check something lightweight instead. I am not at home to show you photos

You are right. The tweed was Fox Brothers and while it is half canvassed, they did not use fusing.

This is also from Spier but Guabello. I just checked and it is largely fused.

It does seem to vary according to the fabric used.

 

[blewnote1]

Unfortunately that's not true. If you'll take a half canvas jacket from Spier or Suitsupply, or Pini Parma, or a bunch of other makers and look behind the canvas, you'll see the whole panel where a full canvas should be, covered with a fabric fusing to facilitate drape. That's why half canvased jackets quite often look better that some super 150 full canvased. While I don't mind half canvased jackets, I wouldn't pay more than 300$ for them

That's been my understanding regarding construction of half vs full canvas as well. But everything I've read says that while full canvas is definitely the best, half canvas is pretty good as well and not really worth the extra money for full unless you can afford it or are already spending so much money that it makes sense to invest in its potential to last for decades.

 

[JTrent82]

I've got quite a few half-canvased jackets from S&M and I've never experienced any bubbling or any other issues. Obviously full canvas is preferable but for an odd jacket it's just not a big deal to me.

 

[A12321]

But IIRC last year the fully canvas premium fabric suits were the same prices as this half canvas option. I get it inflation and all but that's a tough pill to swallow. I've done a lot of MTM w/ S&M, on the fence about if I'll ever do it again due to the issues w items not being made to spec and just the jankiness of the web interface (why oh why would we want to MTM so many similar bottom tier fabrics?! I think people would buy more if there were fewer, more distinct options).

FW jacketing is always great. But most companies do a tremendous job w/ FW collections. It's in many ways easier to pull off. Having better quality 4-season and S/S stuff is more challenging. I'm looking at stuff trickling out at another (more expensive) AV and it's just meh so far. The SS sportcoats this season for S&M give me some hope.

Agreed. Their MTM fabric selections for suits are pretty awful and its pushing me to strongly consider going to Suit Supply MTM. I visited a showroom the other day and the vast amount of fabric they have just from VBC alone is making me want to place an order. That, along with a 2-3 week turnaround make it difficult not to consider.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

That's why half canvased jackets quite often look better that some super 150 full canvased. While I don't mind half canvased jackets, I wouldn't pay more than 300$ for them

So you're saying that for some situations, half canvas is better than full, but at the same time is inherently worth significantly less? I don't understand.