SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Imperatores]

MTO question-- does going from contemporary to slim affect anything other the measurements listed, like armhole, sleeve width, sleeve taper, etc?

I wear 40L contemporary RTW but think 41L slim will require the least amount of shoulder/chest/waist/length adjustments, as long as those are the only differences. Thanks.

I'm pretty sure that going from 40 to 41 would mean larger/lower armholes and wider sleeves as well. I've asked Rick about this in the past, and the contemporary and slim patterns have the same armhole height. I've tried both 38 contemporary and 39 slim as the basis for MTO jackets, and the 39 slim definitely has lower armholes and wider sleeves.

These are the high rise contemporary fit trousers from SM using the Brisbane Moss quest cotton in the color khaki. They are a size 38 and I let the seat out about 3/4 of an inch.

Wow, those are the high-rise cut? Are you some sort of giant? I didn't say anything, but I actually thought those trousers bordered on too low-rise to work well with a jacket. Really shows how much different body proportions influences rise. The high-rise cut almost comes all the way up to my belly button. I guess it could be influenced by the jacket being a bit shorter than your usual as well.

 

[Genericuser1]

Zoomer girl at checkout counter: "Hey I really like your outfit! It has that whole Dark Academia vibe."
Me (confused): "I don't know what that means."
Zoomer: "Wow, because you're really nailing it."

😂

We need pictures of said outfit so we can google Dark Academia and see for ourselves.

 

[jclonin7]

I'm pretty sure that going from 40 to 41 would mean larger/lower armholes and wider sleeves as well. I've asked Rick about this in the past, and the contemporary and slim patterns have the same armhole height. I've tried both 38 contemporary and 39 slim as the basis for MTO jackets, and the 39 slim definitely has lower armholes and wider sleeves.



Wow, those are the high-rise cut? Are you some sort of giant? I didn't say anything, but I actually thought those trousers bordered on too low-rise to work well with a jacket. Really shows how much different body proportions influences rise. The high-rise cut almost comes all the way up to my belly button. I guess it could be influenced by the jacket being a bit shorter than your usual as well.

Hahaha! Not a giant. 6 foot 3 with a prominent backside. Also they had kinda fallen down as it was the end of the day. I also have very long legs and a high hip bone. I have never had any pants that could come close to my belly button.

 

[jclonin7]

I'm pretty sure that going from 40 to 41 would mean larger/lower armholes and wider sleeves as well. I've asked Rick about this in the past, and the contemporary and slim patterns have the same armhole height. I've tried both 38 contemporary and 39 slim as the basis for MTO jackets, and the 39 slim definitely has lower armholes and wider sleeves.



Wow, those are the high-rise cut? Are you some sort of giant? I didn't say anything, but I actually thought those trousers bordered on too low-rise to work well with a jacket. Really shows how much different body proportions influences rise. The high-rise cut almost comes all the way up to my belly button. I guess it could be influenced by the jacket being a bit shorter than your usual as well.

This would be my typical cut. Same dimensions on the order.

 

[Imperatores]

Hahaha! Not a giant. 6 foot 3 with a prominent backside. Also they had kinda fallen down as it was the end of the day. I also have very long legs and a high hip bone. I have never had any pants that could come close to my belly button.

I also have a prominent backside, but not the height unfortunately...

This would be my typical cut. Same dimensions on the order.

That looks brilliant. You'd have to go full bespoke to have any hope of meaningfully improving on that fit. I can understand how you'd be disappointed to receive a jacket with all the measurements a bit off when you had your fit dialed in to this extent.

Great taste in cloth as well! I've been considering ordering a jacket in that exact cloth for a while now.

 

[jclonin7]

I also have a prominent backside, but not the height unfortunately...



That looks brilliant. You'd have to go full bespoke to have any hope of meaningfully improving on that fit. I can understand how you'd be disappointed to receive a jacket with all the measurements a bit off when you had your fit dialed in to this extent.

Great taste in cloth as well! I've been considering ordering a jacket in that exact cloth for a while now.

Thanks! Very kind words. The cloth is excellent. It has a very soft hand for a tweed and is very versatile. Most of my customs have been spot on. Just weird the latest wasn’t. Although it is sporty so short is t the end of the world.

 

[Imperatores]

Thanks! Very kind words. The cloth is excellent. It has a very soft hand for a tweed and is very versatile. Most of my customs have been spot on. Just weird the latest wasn’t. Although it is sporty so short is t the end of the world.

That's good to hear. I've imagined that cloth to be quite versatile for a grey jacket, but reality isn't necessarily always as you expect. It's especially appealing to me that it still works so well (maybe even optimally) with mid grey flannels, unlike most grey sportcoats. I can see it working very well with beige/cream, olive and brown trousers as well. Maybe even navy. How do you typically wear it?

 

[jclonin7]

That's good to hear. I've imagined that cloth to be quite versatile for a grey jacket, but reality isn't necessarily always as you expect. It's especially appealing to me that it still works so well (maybe even optimally) with mid grey flannels, unlike most grey sportcoats. I can see it working very well with beige/cream, olive and brown trousers as well. Maybe even navy. How do you typically wear it?

I typically wear mine with cream jeans, tan or stone cavalry twills, green cords, and grey flannels. It has looked good with every pair of pants I've ever tried lol.

 

[Imperatores]

I typically wear mine with cream jeans, tan or stone cavalry twills, green cords, and grey flannels. It has looked good with every pair of pants I've ever tried lol.

Other than the cream jeans, those are the exact trousers I've imagined myself wearing it with lol.

 

[C_kimlin920]

I just received mine after returning the 44. I wear a 44 jacket but I suggest sizing up to get the length and fit right on the washed jacket. It’s actually very nice and the collar is great.

did you go up to a 46?

 

[jclonin7]

did you go up to a 46?

Yes. I went up to a 46 which is an XXL. I think the washed version is a little smaller than the raw one. Maybe due to shrinkage idk. But the 46 fits great.

 

[Wrenkin]

FYI I received my grey herringbone tweed. No photos for the moment, but the pocket on a 38S lines up exactly with my shirt pocket (a recent Brooks Brothers OCBD). It seems fine to me.

One other thing I will say is that it is not a super heavy-weight or fluffy tweed, like this one (the brown guncheck, which I also have). I bought the grey herringbone to replace a similar 10-year old Brooks Brothers jacket that's grown too small, and Spier's fabric is maybe 60% of the weight. The fact that it is unlined and lighter probably makes it a bit more versatile, but it feels less bulletproof.

 

[XxLogo]

FYI I received my grey herringbone tweed. No photos for the moment, but the pocket on a 38S lines up exactly with my shirt pocket (a recent Brooks Brothers OCBD). It seems fine to me.

One other thing I will say is that it is not a super heavy-weight or fluffy tweed, like this one (the brown guncheck, which I also have). I bought the grey herringbone to replace a similar 10-year old Brooks Brothers jacket that's grown too small, and Spier's fabric is maybe 60% of the weight. The fact that it is unlined and lighter probably makes it a bit more versatile, but it feels less bulletproof.

Is this the Custom Harris Tweed one? If so, maybe Spier requested it not be as thick as a normal Harris Tweed fabric, due to it being custom for them?

 

[iloveplaid]

These are the high rise contemporary fit trousers from SM using the Brisbane Moss quest cotton in the color khaki. They are a size 38 and I let the seat out about 3/4 of an inch.

Cheers! Are they pleated or do they not come pleated?

 

[jclonin7]

Cheers! Are they pleated or do they not come pleated?

These are single reverse pleats.