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pyunghwa

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There seems to be some confusion here.

This suit has product ID X30089 and is discontinued from the Fresco catalogue. It's an older fabric, which is the same as @jermyzy is referring to. It's a brown fabric with a red undertone. This particular fabric is 310 gms.

This suit however, seems to be mislabeled. If I'm not mistaken, it's product ID 510211 from the Fresco Lite book. This particular fabric features a more pronounced red undertone than the one above (X30089) and is 290 gms.

Here's a pic comparing the two fabrics above.
View attachment 1807994

Minnis offers several brown fabrics. Below are pics of product ID 510382 (290 gms), X30089 (310 gsm) and 510263 (310 gsm).
View attachment 1807992 View attachment 1807993

Below are swatch pics of Minnis' brown fresco selection.
View attachment 1807995 View attachment 1807996 View attachment 1807997 View attachment 1807998 View attachment 1807999 View attachment 1808000

This is incredibly helpful, thank you!

If I'm following correctly, I'm surprised that in your first photo, the x30089 looks lighter than the 510211 despite the sm stock photo showing the opposite. Even @jermyzy 's photo seems closer to the one on the website, so very surprised when juxtaposed it shows the opposite.


I have to say, I definitely am leaning more towards the 510263, it definitely looks more chocolate brown. Would you say that's a fair statement when comparing it to the 510211?
 

DonRaphael

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you!

If I'm following correctly, I'm surprised that in your first photo, the x30089 looks lighter than the 510211 despite the sm stock photo showing the opposite. Even @jermyzy 's photo seems closer to the one on the website, so very surprised when juxtaposed it shows the opposite.


I have to say, I definitely am leaning more towards the 510263, it definitely looks more chocolate brown. Would you say that's a fair statement when comparing it to the 510211?
X30089 is brighter while 510211 is lighter in weight. But as I said, since the suit in the second link seems mislabelled unless it's a special run specifically for Spier and thus not featured in the Fresco books, I can only assume that it's in fact 510211. The suit in the second link is similar to the 510211 swatch I'm seeing in person and it adds up weight wise (290 gsm).

510263 is a true mid/chocolate brown. 510382 is a dark brown with charcoal-ish undertone. The former is 310 gsm and the latter is 290 gsm. I prefer the heavier fabric for my purposes and as a result, will be selling/listing the dark brown 510382 shortly. But they're both great and serve different purposes.
 
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AltNameTK

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Does anyone here have firsthand experience with Spier & Mackay's wide stripe linen shirts? I'm eying this one, as a cheaper alternative to this G. Inglese item, while it's on sale.

I think a 16 slim would work for me, per the on-site measurements, but I'm not sure how precise they are. Some brands make linen shirts looser than their standard measurements, and I'm not sure how to account for shrinkage.
 

MajorDash

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Does anyone here have firsthand experience with Spier & Mackay's wide stripe linen shirts? I'm eying this one, as a cheaper alternative to this G. Inglese item, while it's on sale.

I think a 16 slim would work for me, per the on-site measurements, but I'm not sure how precise they are. Some brands make linen shirts looser than their standard measurements, and I'm not sure how to account for shrinkage.


I did not observe any shrinkage when I have washed any of my S&M linen shirts (I have both the long and short sleeved ones). I think their linen shirts are a good value, especially on sale.
 

blewnote1

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Does anyone here have firsthand experience with Spier & Mackay's wide stripe linen shirts? I'm eying this one, as a cheaper alternative to this G. Inglese item, while it's on sale.

I think a 16 slim would work for me, per the on-site measurements, but I'm not sure how precise they are. Some brands make linen shirts looser than their standard measurements, and I'm not sure how to account for shrinkage.

I ordered a 16, 16.5, and 17 to try and accommodate my large neck, dad bod belly and short arms (17/34), they all seemed to fit the way the measurements suggested. The arms in the 17 were comically long and the waists in the 16 and 16.5 were way too small. FWIW, I bought the only shirt they seem to offer in my size right now, which is a Bengal striped linen button down and it fits nicely (although still a tad slim in the waist in my opinion) and did not shrink noticeably after washing in cold water and hang drying.

The color is great on the blue wide stripe shirt, really wish I could have made it work.
 

SteveMc

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Just curious, how much do your thighs measure? I'm also 81cm and can't decide on the sizing.

This is from a while back :) ... about 54 cm in the widest part

Since then, I've also tried 32. My conclusions:
High-rise dress pants - I take 30. The high-rise are cut a bit roomier, at least to my perception.
Regular rise dress pants, especially the fresco - I take 32. These seems to be cut smaller. Though I have a couple in 30 and they fit just the as good. Other then the waist, I find the differences to be very small
5-pocket- I take 31 if the size is offered. I tried 30. Much depends on tolerance. They can be tight in the waist, and unlike the dress trousers, there's no room to let out.
Denim - I took 31, should've taken the 30..

All contemporary fit (if it wasn't clear)
 

cr2596

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Does anyone here have firsthand experience with Spier & Mackay's wide stripe linen shirts? I'm eying this one, as a cheaper alternative to this G. Inglese item, while it's on sale.

I think a 16 slim would work for me, per the on-site measurements, but I'm not sure how precise they are. Some brands make linen shirts looser than their standard measurements, and I'm not sure how to account for shrinkage.
Yes, I have that shirt from previous seasons, and I have many linen shirts from over the years. I'm consistently a 15.5 slim in all fabrics except Linen. I'm a 15.5 extra slim for all my linen shirts, these days. They seem to run big if I get my normal size. That includes last year, haven't bought anything this year.
 

stubbsj20

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DonRaphael

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Out of curiosity, did you quarter or fully line this jacket?
Quarter. It's thick. And I always use an overcoat. So really no need to have it fully lined.

With that being said, I do have my flannel suits fully lined though, but for other reasons than those mentioned above. It adds to the body of the jacket and creates a better drape. It also prevents the jacket from being caught on my shirt causing ripples. It adds to the suits' formal appearance. Since the jacket above is a SC and not a formal jacket/suit, I kept it unlined.
 

stubbsj20

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Quarter. It's thick. And I always use an overcoat. So really no need to have it fully lined.

With that being said, I do have my flannel suits fully lined though, but for other reasons than those mentioned above. It adds to the body of the jacket and creates a better drape. It also prevents the jacket from being caught on my shirt causing ripples. It adds to the suits' formal appearance. Since the jacket above is a SC and not a formal jacket/suit, I kept it unlined.
Thank you for the quick response and extra detail!
 

AltNameTK

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Yes, I have that shirt from previous seasons, and I have many linen shirts from over the years. I'm consistently a 15.5 slim in all fabrics except Linen. I'm a 15.5 extra slim for all my linen shirts, these days. They seem to run big if I get my normal size. That includes last year, haven't bought anything this year.
Alright! Well I ordered the 16 slim before seeing your message. Hope it works out. 😬
 

Nitrogen

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Quarter. It's thick. And I always use an overcoat. So really no need to have it fully lined.

With that being said, I do have my flannel suits fully lined though, but for other reasons than those mentioned above. It adds to the body of the jacket and creates a better drape. It also prevents the jacket from being caught on my shirt causing ripples. It adds to the suits' formal appearance. Since the jacket above is a SC and not a formal jacket/suit, I kept it unlined.

That's great info. I'm glad I took my next flannel suit also fully lined. Is your tweed jacket fully canvassed?

I'm also wondering how to get the ordering process going for those custom fabrics, seems like S&M doesn't answer emails particularly well (or fast at least).
 

DonRaphael

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That's great info. I'm glad I took my next flannel suit also fully lined. Is your tweed jacket fully canvassed?

I'm also wondering how to get the ordering process going for those custom fabrics, seems like S&M doesn't answer emails particularly well (or fast at least).
All my MTO pieces are fully canvassed except maybe 1-2, which was a mistake on my behalf. I plan to use my MTO pieces for a long time, so it's definitely worth the extra bucks for me since it enhances longevity/durability and drape. And with Spier, there's the occasional opportunity, like now, to actually have the upgrade for free. Including handmade Milanese buttonhole.

The process for the custom fabrics is usually approached in either of the two following ways in my experience: you're asked to purchase a fabric thst is similar to yours or from the same book or similar in cost and add that the order is for another fabric in the notes. Or you're required to email the custom department what fabric you're interested in and specify the details and they'll send you an invoice. They'll let you know how to proceed. My guess is they're clogged up with all the sales going on. Although, I've emailed with them yesterday and today. So they seem fairly quick after all.
 

JTrent82

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All my MTO pieces are fully canvassed except maybe 1-2, which was a mistake on my behalf. I plan to use my MTO pieces for a long time, so it's definitely worth the extra bucks for me since it enhances longevity/durability and drape. And with Spier, there's the occasional opportunity, like now, to actually have the upgrade for free. Including handmade Milanese buttonhole.

The process for the custom fabrics is usually approached in either of the two following ways in my experience: you're asked to purchase a fabric thst is similar to yours or from the same book or similar in cost and add that the order is for another fabric in the notes. Or you're required to email the custom department what fabric you're interested in and specify the details and they'll send you an invoice. They'll let you know how to proceed. My guess is they're clogged up with all the sales going on. Although, I've emailed with them yesterday and today. So they seem fairly quick after all.
Do you know if the full canvas upgrade can be applied to custom fabrics? I'd be really frustrated if the promotion expired while I was waiting on confirmation from CS.
 

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