SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[FlyingHorker]

Anyone else interested in casual wash and wear suits? I think they'd be perfect in an Ivy cut.

Brooks Brothers used to do this in some decades past in poplin/poly blends, and Drake's sort of does this with their Games' suit (not sure if it's washable though).

S&M has tried this once or twice in the past, but didn't try it again. I do recall there was some cut issues.

 

[alkydrinker]

Anyone else interested in casual wash and wear suits? I think they'd be perfect in an Ivy cut.

Brooks Brothers used to do this in some decades past in poplin/poly blends, and Drake's sort of does this with their Games' suit (not sure if it's washable though).

S&M has tried this once or twice in the past, but didn't try it again. I do recall there was some cut issues.

Yes, I would likely buy that. If it was in an Ivy cut, I'd definitely buy it.

The current crop of chore coats machine wash really well, so similar fabric and unstructured construction in a sport coat shape with available matching pants would be sweet.

Was it last fall that they teased an Ivy sack jacket (see attached pic)? ....oddly it was never released. If they went all out with an undarted sack front for this theoretical wash and wear suit, it might a bit polarizing...although maybe not as long as it fits good.

The vintage wash and wear suits by Brooks, Haspel, etc are really cool overall, although the wool poly blend fabrics on some I've seen can look a bit dated. On the plus side, I feel like the shoulders always look extra good on those because of the avoidance of padding to make them washable.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Yes, I would likely buy that. If it was in an Ivy cut, I'd definitely buy it.

The current crop of chore coats machine wash really well, so similar fabric and unstructured construction in a sport coat shape with available matching pants would be sweet.

Was it last fall that they teased an Ivy sack jacket (see attached pic)? ....oddly it was never released. If they went all out with an undarted sack front for this theoretical wash and wear suit, it might a bit polarizing...although maybe not as long as it fits good.

The vintage wash and wear suits by Brooks, Haspel, etc are really cool overall, although the wool poly blend fabrics on some I've seen can look a bit dated. On the plus side, I feel like the shoulders always look extra good on those because of the avoidance of padding to make them washable.

Yeah I was also looking forward to that Ivy sack jacket, not sure what happened with that one. @SpierTeam ?

S&M did release washed, unstructured cotton suits a couple years ago, but they did look a bit dumpy overall. So either we need a new cut, or embrace that it's not going to drape cleanly.

I'm not against poly if it will help the fabric maintain shape and drape, and not decrease breathability.

Hmm, what looks dated about the wool poly blends on the vintage suits? To me, they look almost too perfect with no wear and tear.

 

[TheLawBeard]

I asked about that one on IG. They said likely release later this season. Shipping and logistics issues messed up their original release timeline on that one.

 

[jermyzy]

What do you guys think of the wide peak lapels? I love the colour of this suit, but not convinced I can pull of the wide peak lapels. I have average body type, 5,8" 145 lbs. When I see the suits that Harvey Specter wears, the lapels are not as wide so it looks good, but this one is quite wide.

 

[cr2596]

It’s all about proportionality. If you’re wirey, it would likely look out of proportion to you and maybe silly. If you have some girth, it might look appropriate.

 

[reidrothchild]

Wearing the stretch cotton suit from a few years ago today. I would love something like this, except completely unstructured and machine washable. It will certainly look a bit frumpier without any canvassing, but I think I’d get more wear out of something more like Drake’s Games suits. Those are listed as machine washable—though I’d never attempt home cleaning in a $1500 suit. If SM could do a $4-500 version though? I’d give it a try.

 

[conak]

Anyone else interested in casual wash and wear suits? I think they'd be perfect in an Ivy cut.

Brooks Brothers used to do this in some decades past in poplin/poly blends, and Drake's sort of does this with their Games' suit (not sure if it's washable though).

S&M has tried this once or twice in the past, but didn't try it again. I do recall there was some cut issues.

I've requested a washable suit a few times here and never got any traction... I suspect the issue is that the technology was abandoned by most manufacturers and so most factories don't have the skills or supply chains to do it. It's probably too much of an upfront investment to take the risk for SM. I have several washable suits that I love (including several full canvas ones), but from discussions with manufacturers, it takes experience. The main problem, I'm told, is the different fabrics shrink at different rates. So the canvas may shrink in one way, the main fabric in another, and the thread in another. Even if the shrinkage is minimal (which the polyester helps to ensure), the difference can throw a suit off enough to give it a very casual appearance (noticeably different from the original appearance that the customer liked when buying the suit, which means more complaints). So the experience comes into play determining not just construction but also what materials to use together for best results.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I've requested a washable suit a few times here and never got any traction... I suspect the issue is that the technology was abandoned by most manufacturers and so most factories don't have the skills or supply chains to do it. It's probably too much of an upfront investment to take the risk for SM. I have several washable suits that I love (including several full canvas ones), but from discussions with manufacturers, it takes experience. The main problem, I'm told, is the different fabrics shrink at different rates. So the canvas may shrink in one way, the main fabric in another, and the thread in another. Even if the shrinkage is minimal (which the polyester helps to ensure), the difference can throw a suit off enough to give it a very casual appearance (noticeably different from the original appearance that the customer liked when buying the suit, which means more complaints). So the experience comes into play determining not just construction but also what materials to use together for best results.

Makes sense on different fabrics shrinking at different rates; that's why people say to always dry clean tailoring.

I'd love for it to take off, even if it may not be feasible. I think it's one of the most versatile options in today's world, a revival of old technology and trends, and shouldn't be too expensive in theory. A suit is also just easy to co-ordinate by definition vs. a sports coat.

I saw that Epaulet did an MTO run very recently for cotton suiting, but it was open for like 2 days and posted in the SW&D forum.

I do recall someone here actually cold washing a S&M sports coat with 0 shrinkage or issues. @zewill possibly?

@reidrothchild did post the batch of washed cotton that I was talking about, and I'm not sure if the scrunchy chest does it for me.

 

[reidrothchild]

@reidrothchild did post the batch of washed cotton that I was talking about, and I'm not sure if the scrunchy chest does it for me.

This suit is actually the half canvas stretch cotton, dry clean only version they released. They also released that same season a 100% cotton completely unstructured suit that I passed on because it wasn't advertised as having any elastane or spandex. The washed cotton version was even more rumpled/scrunchy looking than the one I got. Pics of both in this post:
https://dappered.com/2020/08/spier-and-mackay-25-off-sitewide-sale/
I don't know what it is about the Drake's version that captures the laid back vibe of a casual suit without also looking sloppy, but most truly unstructured suits just look too sloppy. Still, I'd try one if it had decent proportions without breaking the bank.

I was briefly excited to see the knit suit separates until I noticed that the pants come with an elastic waist band and draw string.

 

[marker2037]

Still no fit pics of the high rise cotton double pleated shorts?...

 

[hysteria]

Still no fit pics of the high rise cotton double pleated shorts?...

Interested in this as well. Looks nice.

Also wondering if anyone has ever tried SM's denim shirts or jeans?

 

[wilcthree]

Still no fit pics of the high rise cotton double pleated shorts?...

I know, right?! Someone’s gotta post some pics of them jawns in the wild.

 

[TheShoeru]

Any chance of more Johnny collar polos this summer?

Just got a striped one in in medium and it’s fantastic. Would really love to see some more colors popping up.

 

[sargeinaz]

A spier version of a washable games suit would be pretty cool. Something 3 roll 2 maybe with swelled edges and maybe flap pockets? Pants in the current high rise cut with or without pleats (beggars can’t be choosers). I’d be game for one in like a pale non-yellow khaki or navy or something. I think the fabric needs to be of decent weight so it hangs well. Like cotton or Cotton canvas.