SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[ericgereghty]

Surely if the armhole is cut so high that it precludes you from wearing thicker shirts that it's a sign that perhaps the armhole is getting too high, especially so for individuals with larger upper arms. I know that the regular sport coat cut has lower armholes, but so many of the more interesting fabrics are made with the neo cut. I ordered a sport coat with the new neo cut and even with my arms at my side the armholes would dig into my armpits and wrinkle the upper sleeve. MTO is the way to go for me from now on, I suppose.

I’m curious to know what constitutes a thinner/thicker shirt. I have a reasonable wide upper body (at least by SF skinnyboi standards), and should be receiving a suit in the new Neo cut. Will report back if it feels distinctly more restrictive. @DonRaphael eho I believe is also on the beefier side, said that while he did notice the change, it wasn’t THAT glaring.

Hi all,

Been a year or so since I looked at S&M. I'm looking to make a new suit acquisition soon but am surprised at the lacking offering from Spier at the moment. There aren't a lot of RTW suits, and the ones I'm interested in are out of stock in most sizes.

So my question is... what is going on? I loved this brand from 2017-2019. Is this just bad timing? Between seasons? Or has Spier fallen victim to the current global situation given the pandemic, supply chain issues, China, economy, etc.? I'm vexed.

All the above I’m thinking. I’m curious, what sorta suit are you in the market for?

 

[Riva]

You mean people don't wear suits out even during a pandemic?

What does CM stand for nowadays? Casual menswear?

Sure they wear suits during pandemic like this:

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EWsJkz0WoAMhU5N?format=jpg&name=small

No way. It'll take 3 years from now for Fok to change that "CLASSIC MENSWEAR" dropdown up there.

 

[DonRaphael]

I’m curious to know what constitutes a thinner/thicker shirt. I have a reasonable wide upper body (at least by SF skinnyboi standards), and should be receiving a suit in the new Neo cut. Will report back if it feels distinctly more restrictive. @DonRaphael eho I believe is also on the beefier side, said that while he did notice the change, it wasn’t THAT glaring.

All the above I’m thinking. I’m curious, what sorta suit are you in the market for?

Much has been said about the higher armholes featured on the new Neo jackets. As I've said before, the average Joe won't notice any difference. But for me, I did notice a difference. And it was restrictive. It has nothing to do with the cut itself. It's just my natural build causing it.

Here're pics to demonstrate that. I'm usually a size 15,5" in dress shirts, but I need to go MTM/bespoke. This is a RTW fit from another maker which I took a shot at during sale. The measurements for this shirt are the exact same as Spier's size 15,5" dress shirts. Needless to say, the cut didn't fit me. Evident from the pics, it's not difficult to figure why I am having trouble with the higher armhole for the new Neo jackets.

 

[FlyingHorker]

We've had the quad and crotch shots, now arm shots.

Now we just need the glute shots and the bodybuilding revival on styleforum will be complete.

 

[XxLogo]

We've had the quad and crotch shots, now arm shots.

Now we just need the glute shots and the bodybuilding revival on styleforum will be complete.

That will come when the underwear comes don't worry lmao

 

[DonRaphael]

We've had the quad and crotch shots, now arm shots.

Now we just need the glute shots and the bodybuilding revival on styleforum will be complete.

Well, I'm getting the question once a week. And everytime I've explained that the average Joe probably won't notice any difference and the reason I notice the difference is because I'm borderline sizes or something along those lines. Still yet, the question pops up. So I might just add context by visualising what I mean when I say that it's restrictive for me but that the average Joe won't notice.

If it helps someone, great. If not, move on.

 

[MrFingers]

Well, I'm getting the question once a week. And everytime I've explained that the average Joe probably won't notice any difference and the reason I notice the difference is because I'm borderline sizes or something along those lines. Still yet, the question pops up. So I might just visualise what I mean when I say that it's restrictive for me but that the average Joe won't notice.

Thankfully most of the crowd should just be ready to chalk up 15 bucks to return them if they don’t fit. Kind of scared of the new cut as I’m also towards the wider on shoulder/chest vs small waist side. A 42 already feels good as is but I can see how it could affect me personally with the higher armholes as my shoulders are fairly sloped

 

[FlyingHorker]

Well, I'm getting the question once a week. And everytime I've explained that the average Joe probably won't notice any difference and the reason I notice the difference is because I'm borderline sizes or something along those lines. Still yet, the question pops up. So I might just visualise what I mean when I say that it's restrictive for me but that the average Joe won't notice.

If it helps someone, great. If not, move on.

Oh for sure man, I understand the intent, it makes sense.

I'm just being a smart ass and having some fun.

 

[wilcthree]

Was reading about higher armholes, construction, drape through the chest, restriction, etc., etc… One thing that stuck out to me is that if the armhole is raised or high, then there needs to be extra room/wideness on the sides of the armholes, that is in the chest and rear shoulder blades, for it to allow true ease of movement and no restriction. I wonder if SM accounted for this when constructing the new armhole configuration, as I often experience restriction/tension in the side of chest and upper bicep area.

 

[Devis4u]

Well, I'm getting the question once a week. And everytime I've explained that the average Joe probably won't notice any difference and the reason I notice the difference is because I'm borderline sizes or something along those lines. Still yet, the question pops up. So I might just visualise what I mean when I say that it's restrictive for me but that the average Joe won't notice.

If it helps someone, great. If not, move on.

Don't sweat it, they're just 'mirin

 

[wilcthree]

Surely if the armhole is cut so high that it precludes you from wearing thicker shirts that it's a sign that perhaps the armhole is getting too high, especially so for individuals with larger upper arms. I know that the regular sport coat cut has lower armholes, but so many of the more interesting fabrics are made with the neo cut. I ordered a sport coat with the new neo cut and even with my arms at my side the armholes would dig into my armpits and wrinkle the upper sleeve. MTO is the way to go for me from now on, I suppose.

True. One dimension of the armhole is it’s height (if we’re thinking about an oval, how far the south pole is raised up). The other is its wideness (east and west pole). For me, depending on the shirt material, the interplay between shirt, armhole, cleanness of drape of suit coat sleeve isn’t as clean as I’m used to, and thus I experience more noticeable restriction when wearing a thicker shirt (i.e., fine twill) in the areas I mentioned in the last post.

 

[MidwestWanderer]

Hi all,

Been a year or so since I looked at S&M. I'm looking to make a new suit acquisition soon but am surprised at the lacking offering from Spier at the moment. There aren't a lot of RTW suits, and the ones I'm interested in are out of stock in most sizes.

So my question is... what is going on? I loved this brand from 2017-2019. Is this just bad timing? Between seasons? Or has Spier fallen victim to the current global situation given the pandemic, supply chain issues, China, economy, etc.? I'm vexed.

I honestly just assumed that they were out of stock on most items simply because they’re updating the entire catalogue for Fall/Winter. I do see that the new Drago suits are appearing.

 

[Vestīmenta Optimae]

Much has been said about the higher armholes featured on the new Neo jackets. As I've said before, the average Joe won't notice any difference. But for me, I did notice a difference. And it was restrictive. It has nothing to do with the cut itself. It's just my natural build causing it.

Here're pics to demonstrate that. I'm usually a size 15,5" in dress shirts, but I need to go MTM/bespoke. This is a RTW fit from another maker which I took a shot at during sale. The measurements for this shirt are the exact same as Spier's size 15,5" dress shirts. Needless to say, the cut didn't fit me. Evident from the pics, it's not difficult to figure why I am having trouble with the higher armhole for the new Neo jackets.
View attachment 1698942 View attachment 1698943 View attachment 1698944 View attachment 1698949

Leave some bicep and pecs for the rest of us!

 

[IKant]

Well, I'm getting the question once a week. And everytime I've explained that the average Joe probably won't notice any difference and the reason I notice the difference is because I'm borderline sizes or something along those lines. Still yet, the question pops up. So I might just add context by visualising what I mean when I say that it's restrictive for me but that the average Joe won't notice.

If it helps someone, great. If not, move on.

I think it's very helpful. Perhaps it might also help if you or someone would illustrate with the actual jackets - arms up and touch shoulders with old and new Neo cuts.

 

[noverbeck]

Does anyone have any pictures of this sport coat?

Abraham Moon - Brown/Orange Gun Check | Spier & Mackay

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com