SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[tmckay2]

Alright gents I got my first suit from spier and if the fit is on I'm getting a few more. I went 38s contemporary navy hopsack and slim 32 pants. The pants are perfect just need them hemmed. Fit snug but with movement and taper a little from knee down. The jacket I think I like. It might need the sleeves lengthened just a tad, it could be a smidge snugger around the midsection but I'm afraid a slim would be too tight around the chest. The back has little to no bubbling. Lapels seem to lie flat. I have good movement in it. I feel like the arm holes are a smidge low such as when I raise my arm but maybe that's just the style. I'm fairly new to suiting and know I need to take it to the tailor but what do you guys think?

I apologize for the bad pics. I couldn't find a mirror with decent lighting so had to use the workout room in the basement.

This one is virtually unstructured. If the next two have full lining and lightly padded shoulders anything I need to seriously consider in how the fit might be different?

 

[Rafael Loh]

Alright gents I got my first suit from spier and if the fit is on I'm getting a few more. I went 38s contemporary navy hopsack and slim 32 pants. The pants are perfect just need them hemmed. Fit snug but with movement and taper a little from knee down. The jacket I think I like. It might need the sleeves lengthened just a tad, it could be a smidge snugger around the midsection but I'm afraid a slim would be too tight around the chest. The back has little to no bubbling. Lapels seem to lie flat. I have good movement in it. I feel like the arm holes are a smidge low such as when I raise my arm but maybe that's just the style. I'm fairly new to suiting and know I need to take it to the tailor but what do you guys think?

I apologize for the bad pics. I couldn't find a mirror with decent lighting so had to use the workout room in the basement.

This one is virtually unstructured. If the next two have full lining and lightly padded shoulders anything I need to seriously consider in how the fit might be different?

It's a great fit! Just need to alter the jacket sleeves longer.

 

[tmckay2]

It's a great fit! Just need to alter the jacket sleeves longer.

That's what I felt too but as a newbie I wanted to see what more experienced guys thought before I lock it down. Thank you for the input!

 

[Imperatores]

Alright gents I got my first suit from spier and if the fit is on I'm getting a few more. I went 38s contemporary navy hopsack and slim 32 pants. The pants are perfect just need them hemmed. Fit snug but with movement and taper a little from knee down. The jacket I think I like. It might need the sleeves lengthened just a tad, it could be a smidge snugger around the midsection but I'm afraid a slim would be too tight around the chest. The back has little to no bubbling. Lapels seem to lie flat. I have good movement in it. I feel like the arm holes are a smidge low such as when I raise my arm but maybe that's just the style. I'm fairly new to suiting and know I need to take it to the tailor but what do you guys think?

I apologize for the bad pics. I couldn't find a mirror with decent lighting so had to use the workout room in the basement.

This one is virtually unstructured. If the next two have full lining and lightly padded shoulders anything I need to seriously consider in how the fit might be different?

You definitely do not need a short size, as that jacket is clearly too short. Have you pulled up your trousers properly? You want the jacket to cover your seat at a minimum, and visually split you into two fairly equal halves. A 38R would also lower the buttoning point closer to your natural waist, making you look slimmer and longer in the process. The sleeves would be much closer to where they should be as well. It looks like a solid fit beyond that, though. Chest, shoulders and waist looks great. It's tough to give a more detailed analysis without pictures from the back. The back can often be the trickiest part to get right on a RTW jacket/suit, but from what little I can see from the side profile it looks pretty good. The lighting makes it hard to judge how the sleeves drape. It looks like there might be some issues with the sleeve pitch, but I can't quite tell from these pics.

The new Neapolitan cut jackets/suits from this FW21 season has a slightly higher armhole on the contemporary model. Looks like those might be ideal for you.

As for the regular cut suits (with padded shoulders etc.), I've only tried them once. Didn't like the fit at all, even though the Neo cut fits me very well. I don't remember in detail what made it different, but the cuts aren't necessarily interchangeable for everyone. Someone else can probably give a more detailed answer about this.

 

[tmckay2]

You definitely do not need a short size, as that jacket is clearly too short. Have you pulled up your trousers properly? You want the jacket to cover your seat at a minimum, and visually split you into two fairly equal halves. A 38R would also lower the buttoning point closer to your natural waist, making you look slimmer and longer in the process. The sleeves would be much closer to where they should be as well. It looks like a solid fit beyond that, though. Chest, shoulders and waist looks great. It's tough to give a more detailed analysis without pictures from the back. The back can often be the trickiest part to get right on a RTW jacket/suit, but from what little I can see from the side profile it looks pretty good. The lighting makes it hard to judge how the sleeves drape. It looks like there might be some issues with the sleeve pitch, but I can't quite tell from these pics.

The new Neapolitan cut jackets/suits from this FW21 season has a slightly higher armhole on the contemporary model. Looks like those might be ideal for you.

As for the regular cut suits (with padded shoulders etc.), I've only tried them once. Didn't like the fit at all, even though the Neo cut fits me very well. I don't remember in detail what made it different, but the cuts aren't necessarily interchangeable for everyone. Someone else can probably give a more detailed answer about this.

Yeah I'm curious about the more structured fitting correctly or not. Sometimes it doesn't take much to make a difference. As far as the short, it does cover my rear. If I smooth it down with my hand it just covers the bottom curve. I measured regulars I had that were clearly too long and they matched up with the same length of regular in spier. The issue is my legs are a good 3 to 4 inches longer than my torso and I have somewhat long arms for my height. But it's easier to let out the sleeves a smidge than taking them in in my not so experienced opinion. The undershirt is also a 34 sleeve and I usually wear a 33 so that could also make a difference.

The back looks good. Sorry I didn't get a pic. No bunching or anything across the shoulders. It feels comfortable and I moved around in it and have good range of motion.

I did consider the neopolitan cut but it was a little more outside my experience and I was already struggling with fit as I have a fairly small waist but reasonably broad shoulders and chest and then my torso length issues. Maybe I'll try one though just to compare. The higher arm holes would be good. It's not a deal breaker but I can tell when I raise my arms even a little.

 

[Imperatores]

Yeah I'm curious about the more structured fitting correctly or not. Sometimes it doesn't take much to make a difference. As far as the short, it does cover my rear. If I smooth it down with my hand it just covers the bottom curve. I measured regulars I had that were clearly too long and they matched up with the same length of regular in spier. The issue is my legs are a good 3 to 4 inches longer than my torso and I have somewhat long arms for my height. But it's easier to let out the sleeves a smidge than taking them in in my not so experienced opinion. The undershirt is also a 34 sleeve and I usually wear a 33 so that could also make a difference.

The back looks good. Sorry I didn't get a pic. No bunching or anything across the shoulders. It feels comfortable and I moved around in it and have good range of motion.

I did consider the neopolitan cut but it was a little more outside my experience and I was already struggling with fit as I have a fairly small waist but reasonably broad shoulders and chest and then my torso length issues. Maybe I'll try one though just to compare. The higher arm holes would be good. It's not a deal breaker but I can tell when I raise my arms even a little.

Are you sure it covers your seat? It doesn't look like it in your pics, but it's possible that you're wearing your trousers very low. That's why I asked if you've pulled them up properly. As it looks now, you're either wearing them too low or the jacket is too short. I suspect it's both, but I could be wrong. You may fall into the same camp that I'm in, where a short is too short but the regular is too long. I need to go MTO for the correct jacket length. It's actually easier to shorten sleeves than to lengthen them btw, as long as the sleeve buttons are non-functional. Since you mentioned your shirt sleeves, I would point out that your shirt cuffs appear to be a bit too loose. Move the button a bit to make them tighter. That will allow the shirt sleeves to rest at the correct length.

There's very little difference between the regular sportcoat cut and the Neo cut in terms of fit. It's mostly down to style. The Neo has slightly wider shoulders, slightly longer in the body and now a slightly higher armhole. It's definitely worth a try, if you don't mind experimenting a bit.

I hear you about the armholes. It's one of those things that you can sort of deal with, but is always an annoyance. A high armhole (that isn't high enough to be constrictive, obviously) just greatly enhances the feel and general look of a jacket. It makes it feel like your own.

 

[tmckay2]

Are you sure it covers your seat? It doesn't look like it in your pics, but it's possible that you're wearing your trousers very low. That's why I asked if you've pulled them up properly. As it looks now, you're either wearing them too low or the jacket is too short. I suspect it's both, but I could be wrong. You may fall into the same camp that I'm in, where a short is too short but the regular is too long. I need to go MTO for the correct jacket length. It's actually easier to shorten sleeves than to lengthen them btw, as long as the sleeve buttons are non-functional. Since you mentioned your shirt sleeves, I would point out that your shirt cuffs appear to be a bit too loose. Move the button a bit to make them tighter. That will allow the shirt sleeves to rest at the correct length.

There's very little difference between the regular sportcoat cut and the Neo cut in terms of fit. It's mostly down to style. The Neo has slightly wider shoulders, slightly longer in the body and now a slightly higher armhole. It's definitely worth a try, if you don't mind experimenting a bit.

I hear you about the armholes. It's one of those things that you can sort of deal with, but is always an annoyance. A high armhole (that isn't high enough to be constrictive, obviously) just greatly enhances the feel and general look of a jacket. It makes it feel your own.

Oh I see what you mean regarding the pants from the front. Yes I was wearing them at my "jeans" waist as I was focusing just on the jacket. Apologies I should have clarified. No when I wear them at the hip bone the jacket end crosses right about where the crotch is. The dress shirt has a few problems honestly but I have a bunch of my work shirts in the wash so I just grabbed one. It's too long and half a size too large in the neck so don't put too much into it.

I'm down to give the neo a try for sure. Sounds like it could be a good fit for me. It's sort of a pain to return to spier so I may just get a neo in a different style vs returning and replacing in hopsack. I also need to talk to my tailor anyway and get his opinion when it's all put together.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Evacipator]

Few pics of the moleskin field jacket in the wild. I say in the wild, but I was actually just playing around with a new camera I'm trying to learn to use, so it was only on to give me something different to shoot. It was not weather appropriate at all, so it didn't last long.

 

[XxLogo]

So what’re your opinions on the VBC Flannel Trousers? Versatile for dressing down?
Also, what would get more use, medium gray or mixed brown?

 

[Huxley]

Saw this. Interesting that they have a C16 Full Italian Spread Collar. Does anyone have any IRL pics of this collar style? Wanting to see how it compares to the C13 Italian Spread usually offered on rtw.

My photo isn’t quite as good as the other posted but hope this helps.

 

[wilcthree]

My photo isn’t quite as good as the other posted but hope this helps.
View attachment 1692869

Helpful! Many thanks.

 

[reidrothchild]

My photo isn’t quite as good as the other posted but hope this helps.
View attachment 1692869

I have the regular Italian collar and don't really like it because, as others have pointed out, the angle is such that the points don't rest beneath my lapels. This one, though, looks great.

 

[SteveMc]

Few pics of the moleskin field jacket in the wild. I say in the wild, but I was actually just playing around with a new camera I'm trying to learn to use, so it was only on to give me something different to shoot. It was not weather appropriate at all, so it didn't last long. View attachment 1692838 View attachment 1692839 View attachment 1692840

Nice! looks a lot more army green than the website photos.

 

[CasuallyWorked]

Few pics of the moleskin field jacket in the wild. I say in the wild, but I was actually just playing around with a new camera I'm trying to learn to use, so it was only on to give me something different to shoot. It was not weather appropriate at all, so it didn't last long. View attachment 1692838 View attachment 1692839 View attachment 1692840

looks really good! how did you size?

 

[Evacipator]

Nice! looks a lot more army green than the website photos.

Yes, there's actually quite a bit of play in the colour, under different light. The website photos seem pretty accurate indoors, in moderate lighting - a more subdued olive. Whereas in brighter conditions it can become a bit more vivid, a more mossy green or something. It's a little hard to describe, but I like it.