SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[dapperclassic]

Last years Moon houndstooth - I think if I hadn‘t have got this, then I’d be up for this years Harris tweed, or the Ethomas houndstooth that’s currently sitting in MTO.

 

[wilcthree]

Agreed. I think the breast pocket is also high on the standard gorge SC too, could benefit from 1cm lower on standard gorge and more on the lower gorge, IMO.

Agreed. The breast pocket on the new Neo cut is noticeably higher.

 

[An Acute Style]

fellas I am ordering brown tweed MTO and am thinking of going with 3 working button holes instead of the default 4? would any of you argue against it?

Anyone arguing about the number of buttons on a jacket sleeve doesn't have a leg to stand on. Anything from 1 to 5 is acceptable in various spheres. 2 to 4 being the most common. I'm personally a fan of two. Do what makes you happy.

 

[MidwestWanderer]

Alright, Gentlemen, just received the Ulster I had ordered, I absolutely love the garment, but I honestly feel like it fits like a bag. Shoulders are great (even when wearing a sportcoat underneath) but thats about it. I ordered the same size as my other Suits from S&M at a 46R. (Context, 6ft tall, and 210lbs, 44” Chest, 38” at natural waist, 46 coats due to big shoulders)

I know that the sleeves need to be adjusted, but other than that, how does this fit look to you? Should I exchange and size down?

 

[FlyingHorker]

Alright, Gentlemen, just received the Ulster I had ordered, I absolutely love the garment, but I honestly feel like it fits like a bag. Shoulders are great (even when wearing a sportcoat underneath) but thats about it. I ordered the same size as my other Suits from S&M at a 46R. (Context, 6ft tall, and 210lbs, 44” Chest, 38” at natural waist, 46 coats due to big shoulders)

I know that the sleeves need to be adjusted, but other than that, how does this fit look to you? Should I exchange and size down? View attachment 1687906
View attachment 1687907

View attachment 1687909

Looks like an actual overcoat to me, I'd keep it as is.

With that said, if you don't feel comfortable, you can size down. Another alternative is having the waist taken in.

 

[1st Step]

Last years Moon houndstooth - I think if I hadn‘t have got this, then I’d be up for this years Harris tweed, or the Ethomas houndstooth that’s currently sitting in MTO.

View attachment 1687843 View attachment 1687844

I Love It, Makin It Easy! Great Combo...

 

[dogjaeja]

I know that the sleeves need to be adjusted...

I actually have been wondering about the forum's overcoat sleeve preference...

For example:
For trim overcoats without tailoring - I sometimes shorten the sleeve to the wrist like a sport coat.
For overcoats over tailoring - I'll usually leave them longer so they don't ride up when I have my arms up.

Does anybody else have a similar preference?

 

[MidwestWanderer]

Looks like an actual overcoat to me, I'd keep it as is.

With that said, if you don't feel comfortable, you can size down. Another alternative is having the waist taken in.

Waist taken in, as well as adjusting the button position on the belt may actually work. The fit in the shoulders is spot on, with plenty of room to move around. Chest is a smidge bigger on initial try on with sport coat and without, but that I can live with because of layering.

I actually have been wondering about the forum's overcoat sleeve preference...

For example:
For trim overcoats without tailoring - I sometimes shorten the sleeve to the wrist like a sport coat.
For overcoats over tailoring - I'll usually leave them longer so they don't ride up when I have my arms up.

Does anybody else have a similar preference?

I do the middle ground. Between my wrist and first knuckle/joint of my thumb in the meaty part of the palm. Not sure if that is the best way to describe it.

 

[zurich64]

I actually have been wondering about the forum's overcoat sleeve preference...

For example:
For trim overcoats without tailoring - I sometimes shorten the sleeve to the wrist like a sport coat.
For overcoats over tailoring - I'll usually leave them longer so they don't ride up when I have my arms up.

Does anybody else have a similar preference?

Yes, topcoats usually have sleeves like a jacket, and overcoats should cover the sleeves of the jacket underneath. Overcoats are also more likely to be used with gloves and the main point is to keep one warm, so sleeves that are a couple of cm longer than regular jackets work better.

 

[zurich64]

Alright, Gentlemen, just received the Ulster I had ordered, I absolutely love the garment, but I honestly feel like it fits like a bag. Shoulders are great (even when wearing a sportcoat underneath) but thats about it. I ordered the same size as my other Suits from S&M at a 46R. (Context, 6ft tall, and 210lbs, 44” Chest, 38” at natural waist, 46 coats due to big shoulders)

I know that the sleeves need to be adjusted, but other than that, how does this fit look to you? Should I exchange and size down? View attachment 1687906
View attachment 1687907

View attachment 1687909

This fits like a bathrobe. Perhaps due to your larger shoulders rest of the coat proportions are way off for you. sleeves may be too wide and there is just too much fabric hanging everywhere.

It could worthwhile for you to have it custom-made as overcoats last a long time. If the coat fits well, you are more likely to actually use it.

 

[Kangnamstyles]

Custom ecru ocbd with donegal trousers from SM. Paired with camel hair cardigan and clove suede EG dovers.

 

[wilcthree]

Custom ecru ocbd with donegal trousers from SM. Paired with camel hair cardigan and clove suede EG dovers.


View attachment 1687953 View attachment 1687954 View attachment 1687955

Comfy.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Alright, Gentlemen, just received the Ulster I had ordered, I absolutely love the garment, but I honestly feel like it fits like a bag. Shoulders are great (even when wearing a sportcoat underneath) but thats about it. I ordered the same size as my other Suits from S&M at a 46R. (Context, 6ft tall, and 210lbs, 44” Chest, 38” at natural waist, 46 coats due to big shoulders)

I know that the sleeves need to be adjusted, but other than that, how does this fit look to you? Should I exchange and size down? View attachment 1687906
View attachment 1687907

View attachment 1687909

Nip and tuck sir. Bring to alterations tailor and let her/him pin you up and go to work.

 

[Imperatores]

I don't really get the fascination some of you guys have with super long overcoats. They're not very flattering to my eye. Makes you look short and stocky. The polo coats looks more balanced and wearable. Particularly that camel ulster coat is going to be overly dramatic and attention-grabbing, imo. Just needs a fedora for the full-on 40's noir detective cosplay.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I don't really get the fascination some of you guys have with super long overcoats. They're not very flattering to my eye. Makes you look short and stocky. The polo coats looks more balanced and wearable. Particularly that camel ulster coat is going to be overly dramatic and attention-grabbing, imo. Just needs a fedora for the full-on 40's noir detective outfit.

whynothaveboth.jpg

I like coats above the knee and below the knee.

I had a coat that reached to my lower calf. It ended up touching the ground when sitting and my car's nasty sideskirt in winter too often.

I had it shortened to upper calf, and this hit the perfect middleground for me.

The main appeal is it has the dramatic swish due to the longer length, and more warmth for your lower legs. IMO it looked more balanced and complete as an overcoat. I do love my polo coat, but not a fan of its length.

I admit I feel more cool when wearing a longer coat.