SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[wilcthree]

The only caveat was mine was in store MTM and @DonRaphael is using the online MTO. So certain adjustments are available in MTM vs MTO but I know Rick is working in incorporating some of these adjustments in MTO (as @DonRaphael mentioned).

Ah, gotcha. Appreciate the update. Would still be good to learn about both, as I could see myself making a trip to their store within the year.

 

[DonRaphael]

@JayDee90 @DonRaphael Please do post pics and provide explanations/insights when you receive your MTOs. The tweaks and requests you two have made on the Neo cut sound interesting and are in line with some things I’d been thinking about. I’ve got a medium gray Neo MTO coming in October or November, with jetted pockets, on which I was contemplating what a very lightly padded shoulder would look like.

I've asked for jetted pockets on my orders as well. I'll make sure to report back.

 

[DonRaphael]

I noticed this too on three of the Neo suits I ordered this past season. The solaro and grey fresco were rolled more to the second as your navy. The navy fresco I ordered looks more like your grey Glen check in terms of where the lapel rolls to. I’d been wondering about this and thought it was just me.

Just asked Rick and provided the same pics I posted here. He says that there's no difference between the two. Says it might just be the ironing.

 

[JayDee90]

Ah, gotcha. Appreciate the update. Would still be good to learn about both, as I could see myself making a trip to their store within the year.
[/QUOT
I just threw on the jacket with what was closest to me so keep in mind I won't be wearing these as seperates and with a denim shirt (unfortunately, it seems like these disclaimers need to be made recently). I too chose to go with jetted pockets. I have long legs in proportion to my torso so i think the lower buttoning stance helps balance me out a bit (nothing wrong with lengthening your legs a la @wilcthree who I am certain is 7 ft tall). Denim shirt is slightly long so take the jacket sleeve length with a grain of salt however I will have to triple check that this isn't too short...

 

[wilcthree]

This is clean, my friend. I like the wider standard lapel. This should be an option on MTO. How wide did you go on the lapel?

 

[DonRaphael]

This is clean. How much padding did you ask for? How did you go about specifying this shoulder in combination with the Neo cut? Any reference like order# or anything else one could use in discussions with Spier?

 

[JayDee90]

This is clean, my friend. I like the wider standard lapel. This should be an option on MTO. How wide did you go on the lapel?

Thanks! I will have to measure when I am back home but I don't think it was meaningfully different than the standard.

 

[JayDee90]

This is clean. How much padding did you ask for? How did you go about specifying this shoulder in combination with the Neo cut? Any reference like order# or anything else one could use in discussions with Spier?

Let me dig up the details when I am back home. Should have a reference#. Tbh it was lots of pics for reference and discussions with Rick. He tried to steer me away from going to crazy with the rope which I think we accomplished here. Noticeable but not too crazy.

 

[DonRaphael]

Let me dig up the details when I am back home. Should have a reference#. Tbh it was lots of pics for reference and discussions with Rick. He tried to steer me away from going to crazy with the rope which I think we accomplished here. Noticeable but not too crazy.

Looking forward to it. There seems to be a fair amount of shoulder extension as well.

 

[wilcthree]

Just asked Rick and provided the same pics I posted here. He says that there's no difference between the two. Says it might just be the ironing.

Duly noted.

 

[wilcthree]

Has anyone here done a Spier tuxedo via MTO or MTM? Hoping to slate one (maybe a 3-piece, high rise trews, and pleats), a dinner jacket of an alternative color/fabric, and an additional pair of black tuxedo trews.

Also, I’d REALLY like to see a dark or navy blue pinstripe suit in Neo. Have been searching through the MTO options and don’t see anything that strikes me.

 

[DonRaphael]

Has anyone here done a Spier tuxedo via MTO or MTM? Hoping to slate one (maybe a 3-piece, high rise trews, and pleats), a dinner jacket of an alternative color/fabric, and an additional pair of black tuxedo trews.

Also, I’d REALLY like to see a dark or navy blue pinstripe suit in Neo. Have been searching through the MTO options and don’t see anything that strikes me.

Been asking for both for quite some time now.

As for the latter, VBC has some interesting fabrics available on their website that Rick is able to source https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com/collection/fabrics/

I've contemplated it for some time but always end up checking off other things on my list. I think the reason being that it's extremely difficult getting the fabric, stripes and other characteristics correct by pictures.

With that being said, I'd rather have a chalkstripe in a thick and fuzzy flannel fabric than a pinstripe in a smooth worsted fabric. However, I don't see Spier offering any of it RTW.

 

[Riva]

Rick, please add a few solid or textured Drago Solanus summer fabrics for the MTO. I'd be interested in quite a few of those.

EDIT: Actually the new Bluefeel traveller line: waterproof, stretchy, stainresistant, wrinkleresistant, sunstop sounds like the ultimate all around fabric.

 

[dapperclassic]

Interesting. I was hoping that wasn't the case. Especially after my latest acquisition and experience. Here're two Neopolitan suits, both featuring 3r2 setups. Look how much more the navy rolls compared to the glencheck. If I look at the inside/back of the lapel, I could see how the navy wants to roll down over the second button, while the glencheck won't roll past the first button. I have not steamed or ironed any of them. And from what I understand, the curvature of the lapel is set and is thus difficult to change a posteriori.
View attachment 1671474 View attachment 1671475

That's just the way it has been pressed, I had a couple of MTO's that came like your Glen check, but easily fixable with gentle steam and a way to hold the lapel roll in your desired position while you apply the steam.

 

[dapperclassic]

This is clean, my friend. I like the wider standard lapel. This should be an option on MTO. How wide did you go on the lapel?

There is a pattern for the standard cut SC with 10cm lapel and 3r2 but it's not on the website. It's the same pattern that was used on the Guabello denim blue from last fall, I think one of the DiPray's from FW21 is also using the same pattern.

I have an MTO en route that is based off the same pattern, will share pics soon.