SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[exfalso]

Have you tried to or asked for a lower buttoning point with Spier jackets? That's another thing I've contemplated but never asked for. Not sure if it would disturb the whole balance of the jacket. If Spier is willing to lower the buttoning point, it'd be interesting to know how they'd do it (just lowering it without any other adjustments or actually making proper adjustments in terms of repositioning the other buttons, hip pockets etc).

I'll surely do and report back as soon as I get an answer to my requests.

No, the buttoning point matches my natural waist, and I like it as it is now. That was also why I wanted to go MTM -- higher buttoning point, high armholes (much, much higher than RTW), and the like. It's just that subtle changes like the lapel curve are difficult to do even with the MTM program.

 

[DonRaphael]

No, the buttoning point matches my natural waist, and I like it as it is now. That was also why I wanted to go MTM -- higher buttoning point, high armholes (much, much higher than RTW), and the like. It's just that subtle changes like the lapel curve are difficult to do even with the MTM program.

Interesting. I was hoping that wasn't the case. Especially after my latest acquisition and experience. Here're two Neopolitan suits, both featuring 3r2 setups. Look how much more the navy rolls compared to the glencheck. If I look at the inside/back of the lapel, I could see how the navy wants to roll down over the second button, while the glencheck won't roll past the first button. I have not steamed or ironed any of them. And from what I understand, the curvature of the lapel is set and is thus difficult to change a posteriori.

 

[Rafsan]

Interesting. I was hoping that wasn't the case. Especially after my latest acquisition and experience. Here're two Neopolitan suits, both featuring 3r2 setups. Look how much more the navy rolls compared to the glencheck. If I look at the inside/back of the lapel, I could see how the navy wants to roll down over the second button, while the glencheck won't roll past the first button. I have not steamed or ironed any of them. And from what I understand, the curvature of the lapel is set and is thus difficult to change a posteriori.
View attachment 1671474 View attachment 1671475

Is this glen check this cloth from VBC 865205-1-MTO-S ?

 

[Nemesis_4]

Interesting. I was hoping that wasn't the case. Especially after my latest acquisition and experience. Here're two Neopolitan suits, both featuring 3r2 setups. Look how much more the navy rolls compared to the glencheck. If I look at the inside/back of the lapel, I could see how the navy wants to roll down over the second button, while the glencheck won't roll past the first button. I have not steamed or ironed any of them. And from what I understand, the curvature of the lapel is set and is thus difficult to change a posteriori.
View attachment 1671474 View attachment 1671475

that glencheck is killer w/ neo @DonRaphael

 

[sargeinaz]

I definitely see what you mean about the height of the lapel roll. That glencheck looks like a Florentine cut. Both look very nice IMO, but I can for sure see someone wanting one or the other because they’re clearly different.

 

[JayDee90]

Thanks mate. Appreciate it. That looks moderately padded. Haven't handled any shoulder from Spier except the Neo, so don't know what to expect or how to relate apart from the looks of it in pics.

What's you experience with that shoulder vis-a-vis the Neopolitan? Is the difference marginal or significant in terms of appearance and fit? If you pinch both shoulders, approx. how much thicker is the padded one?

I played around with some things in my recent MTM. A more formal suit so I went with more heavily roped shoulders compared to what is available OTR, light padding, standard lapel shape ( i.e. not concave) albeit slightly wider, 3r2, lower butting point. A bunch of other details but suffice to say I am pretty happy with the jacket. Trousers are still pending alterations. Will try and snap a pic.

 

[DonRaphael]

Is this glen check this cloth from VBC 865205-1-MTO-S ?

Yes, sir.

 

[DonRaphael]

that glencheck is killer w/ neo @DonRaphael

Thanks, mate. I'm really satisfied with the outcome. I considered going with the lower gorge too late. By the time I emailed CS regarding the change, they had already started on the suit. But I'm glad with the way it turned out.

 

[DonRaphael]

I played around with some things in my recent MTM. A more formal suit so I went with more heavily roped shoulders compared to what is available OTR, light padding, standard lapel shape ( i.e. not concave) albeit slightly wider, 3r2, lower butting point. A bunch of other details but suffice to say I am pretty happy with the jacket. Trousers are still pending alterations. Will try and snap a pic.

Sounds interesting. Please do. Looking forward to see it. Interested to see the outcome of the straight lapel shape and lower buttoning stance.

 

[DonRaphael]

I definitely see what you mean about the height of the lapel roll. That glencheck looks like a Florentine cut. Both look very nice IMO, but I can for sure see someone wanting one or the other because they’re clearly different.

Exactly. Definitely more Florentine than Neopolitan. Except they're both Neopolitan cut supposedly. The only difference is that the navy was produced last season and the glencheck this season. Unless they've done some changes to their Neopolitan blueprint in addition to the higher armhole, they should be the same in theory. But they're not in reality. I'll have a word with CS to better understand the obvious difference.

 

[sargeinaz]

Exactly. Definitely more Florentine than Neopolitan. Except they're both Neopolitan cut supposedly. The only difference is that the navy was produced last season and the glencheck this season. Unless they've done some changes to their Neopolitan blueprint in addition to the higher armhole, they should be the same in theory. But they're not in reality. I'll have a word with CS to better understand the obvious difference.

I’m curious too, so if you get an answer, please let us know.

 

[wilcthree]

Interesting. I was hoping that wasn't the case. Especially after my latest acquisition and experience. Here're two Neopolitan suits, both featuring 3r2 setups. Look how much more the navy rolls compared to the glencheck. If I look at the inside/back of the lapel, I could see how the navy wants to roll down over the second button, while the glencheck won't roll past the first button. I have not steamed or ironed any of them. And from what I understand, the curvature of the lapel is set and is thus difficult to change a posteriori.
View attachment 1671474 View attachment 1671475

I noticed this too on three of the Neo suits I ordered this past season. The solaro and grey fresco were rolled more to the second as your navy. The navy fresco I ordered looks more like your grey Glen check in terms of where the lapel rolls to. I’d been wondering about this and thought it was just me.

 

[wilcthree]

@JayDee90 @DonRaphael Please do post pics and provide explanations/insights when you receive your MTOs. The tweaks and requests you two have made on the Neo cut sound interesting and are in line with some things I’d been thinking about. I’ve got a medium gray Neo MTO coming in October or November, with jetted pockets, on which I was contemplating what a very lightly padded shoulder would look like.

 

[JayDee90]

@JayDee90 @DonRaphael Please do post pics and provide explanations/insights when you receive your MTOs. The tweaks and requests you two have made on the Neo cut sound interesting and are in line with some things I’d been thinking about. I’ve got a medium gray Neo MTO coming in October or November, with jetted pockets, on which I was contemplating what a very lightly padded shoulder would look like.

The only caveat was mine was in store MTM and @DonRaphael is using the online MTO. So certain adjustments are available in MTM vs MTO but I know Rick is working in incorporating some of these adjustments in MTO (as @DonRaphael mentioned).

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Big jump in price for this year's corduroy trousers. I think +40?