SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Hudson]

Just received a MTO suit (https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/vbc---gray-glen-check-865205-1-mto-s) I had made with the higher armhole. @dapperclassic mentioned that the change (1 cm) was unnoticeable. For me, it's noticeable. I guess it depends on your build. I have large overarms from hitting the gym years ago. If you're borderline between sizes like me or if you're an athletic build, you might feel the change in terms of fit. Not to restricting, but I can feel the change. This is not a knock on Spier though, as, as I said earlier, I have large overarms/biceps/shoulders.

Nice to know I'm not the only one who feels this way. I feel like I'm in the minority for wanting for lower armholes because of my upper arms.

 

[Rafsan]

Just received a MTO suit (https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/vbc---gray-glen-check-865205-1-mto-s) I had made with the higher armhole. @dapperclassic mentioned that the change (1 cm) was unnoticeable. For me, it's noticeable. I guess it depends on your build. I have large overarms from hitting the gym years ago. If you're borderline between sizes like me or if you're an athletic build, you might feel the change in terms of fit. Not to restricting, but I can feel the change. This is not a knock on Spier though, as, as I said earlier, I have large overarms/biceps/shoulders.

Please, pictures! I’ve been considering this cloth as well, would love to see IRL pics as a full suit.

 

[DonRaphael]

Yup. I’ve gone down the Drake’s foulard rabbit hole hard. That brown hopsack is a steal. Probably the sleeper garment of the F/W drop. But with this unpredictable drop, who knows! Might be more sleepers on the way. Oh, and that MTO suit you just got, the fabric looks dope! I definitely slept on that pattern. I’m assuming you got it done up in Neo. We need fit pics good sir.

Yes sir, Neo. Love it. It's a tad darker than in the pics, which is perfect. I'll gladly share fit pics next time I wear it.

 

[DonRaphael]

Might be a dumb question, but where can I request a higher armhole for a jacket? It doesn't seem to be on their web form.

I think all Neos starting this season will feature higher armholes. But to be sure, just put it in the notes.

 

[DonRaphael]

Nice to know I'm not the only one who feels this way. I feel like I'm in the minority for wanting for lower armholes because of my upper arms.

I've been one of the members that have advocated higher armholes to get a better overall drape. But the backside of it is restricted flexibility due to higher armholes unfortunately. I was hoping that it wouldn't be noticeable, but it is for me.

I have suits and jackets made up by other brands that feature higher armholes without feeling restrictive, so it's certainly possible. However, this shouldn't be an issue for the majority of Spier's customers.

 

[DonRaphael]

Please, pictures! I’ve been considering this cloth as well, would love to see IRL pics as a full suit.

You'd think that I should've nailed all my measurements with all the MTOs I've commissioned, but sadly I haven't. Well I have, but only with my latest MTO commission, which isn't this suit in questions. This still has approximately 0,25" to long sleeves which I'll need to fix. I'll drop it off at my tailor next week. As soon as I get it back, I'll post fit pics.

 

[Riva]

I've been one of the members that have advocated higher armholes to get a better overall drape. But the backside of it is restricted flexibility due to higher armholes unfortunately. I was hoping that it wouldn't be noticeable, but it is for me.

I have suits and jackets made up by other brands that feature higher armholes without feeling restrictive, so it's certainly possible. However, this shouldn't be an issue for the majority of Spier's customers.

Yea I think it's just due to your gym overarms. Normal guys or especially stick thin ones like me most likely won't notice the difference until we raise our arms. But unless SM has a wool silk linen jacket next summer it won't matter anyway.

 

[CasuallyWorked]

You'd think that I should've nailed all my measurements with all the MTOs I've commissioned, but sadly I haven't. Well I have, but only with my latest MTO commission, which isn't this suit in questions. This still has approximately 0,25" to long sleeves which I'll need to fix. I'll drop it off at my tailor next week. As soon as I get it back, I'll post fit pics.

did you get functioning cuffs or faux cuffs?

 

[DonRaphael]

did you get functioning cuffs or faux cuffs?

For this, I had faux. But I have jackets with functioning cuffs where I've had to shorten the sleeves. But I thing that the buttons are to far away from the cuffs on RTW/standard jackets. So moving the cuff closer to the buttons by shortening the sleeves is fine with me. I think 1-1,5" is fine. I believe Oxxford factory jackets came with 0,75" distance from the edge of button or 1" from center button historically.

 

[schraiber]

That outfit definitely leans more formal than most folks these days, so I understand why you’d get those comments. Despite my S&M heavy wardrobe, I’m still not the type that shows up everywhere with chinos and an OCBD. As much as I’d like to, I still love the comfort of sneakers and jeans. One day I’ll grow up.

Lately I've gotten into 100% cotton heavier weight denim and raw denim thus discovered that jeans are, in fact, not comfortable. Putting on my Spier chinos the day after I've worn jeans is like a glorious release from suffering.

Writing this out makes me question my life decisions...

 

[JayDee90]

For this, I had faux. But I have jackets with functioning cuffs where I've had to shorten the sleeves. But I thing that the buttons are to far away from the cuffs on RTW/standard jackets. So moving the cuff closer to the buttons by shortening the sleeves is fine with me. I think 1-1,5" is fine. I believe Oxxford factory jackets came with 0,75" distance from the edge of button or 1" from center button historically.

I had to shorten the sleeves on my recent MTM commission and agree that if you get close enough/ in the ballpark, minor alterations to sleeve length (when done on both sleeves mind you) aren't that noticeable. At least to me. Not that I really care too much to have functioning sleeves in the first place, but thought why not when going MTM.

With that being said, I have found a jacket's sleeve length to be notoriously hard to get down. I thought that this would be a fairly straightforward measurement, but oddly enough (even with a trial/muslin fitting), I have been surprised with needing an adjustment in the final jacket. I assume this has to do with how different fabrics sit, sometimes making the mistake of measuring against a shirt that doesn't have my ideal measurements, factory tolerance, etc. Makes you wonder how more complex measurements can skew when tweaking fabrics, design details.

 

[mlcgloves]

Looking to expand my shirt collection and was wondering how the S&M shirts compare to Suitsupply relative to their prices since Suitsupply's seem to be 30 - 50 dollars more. Also is ordering shirts MTM worth it if RTW sizing fits pretty well?

 

[DonRaphael]

I had to shorten the sleeves on my recent MTM commission and agree that if you get close enough/ in the ballpark, minor alterations to sleeve length (when done on both sleeves mind you) aren't that noticeable. At least to me. Not that I really care too much to have functioning sleeves in the first place, but thought why not when going MTM.

With that being said, I have found a jacket's sleeve length to be notoriously hard to get down. I thought that this would be a fairly straightforward measurement, but oddly enough (even with a trial/muslin fitting), I have been surprised with needing an adjustment in the final jacket. I assume this has to do with how different fabrics sit, sometimes making the mistake of measuring against a shirt that doesn't have my ideal measurements, factory tolerance, etc. Makes you wonder how more complex measurements can skew when tweaking fabrics, design details.

Actually for me not getting it right with Spier is due to different measuring methods. I think Spier adopts the Scandinavia sleeve measurement which measures based on a curved sleeve while conventional measuring method measures the sleeve in a straight line.

 

[JayDee90]

Actually for me not getting it right with Spier is due to different measuring methods. I think Spier adopts the Scandinavia sleeve measurement which measures based on a curved sleeve while conventional measuring method measures the sleeve in a straight line.

In my case, minor adjustments were required in the final garment even after being measured by the same individual, double-checked at the muslin fitting, done in house (by S&M). Which, for me, isn't big deal but just wanted to note it may surprise some.

 

[DonRaphael]

In my case, minor adjustments were required in the final garment even after being measured by the same individual, double-checked at the muslin fitting, done in house (by S&M). Which, for me, isn't big deal but just wanted to note it may surprise some.

I see. That's a totally different story then, hah. Even if it's not a problem, you'd expect it to work if you're being fitted.