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siddeh

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I love my S&M jackets the way they are. But I also have a couple of jackets with higher armholes that I enjoy as well, one of them being from Orazio actually. While I think that Orazio's armholes are on the higher end of the spectrum, I do believe that S&M would benefit from a tad higher armholes. As I said, I truly enjoy my S&M jackets, but sometimes when lifting my arms to the sides, I can't but feel that the jacket would benefit from a higher armhole.

With that being said, would I pay $200 more for a higher armhole? Probably not. But a higher price wasn't mentioned by S&M. So until that is the case, I'm assuming the price is going to stay the same. And if that's the case, I'll gladly embrace a higher armhole, be it 0,5cm.

I'm in the same boat. If I do a S&M MTO, I assume I can get a sportcoat with high arm holes?
 

DonRaphael

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Fair enough, but that is the question that's neither been asked nor answered. If a lower armhole is designed to fit more customers, thereby keeping the sales volume high, despite lower margins because of the lower price, then a higher armhole will likely mean a higher price, unless S&M is willing to eat the difference - putting itself into competition with other companies that don't depend on higher volumes. As stated by some others here, Cavour and Natalino both have higher armholes and the price is likely appropriately reflected - a few hundred more I believe. Ring Jacket and Orazio, Attolini all come in at least a thousand+ more retail. But we agree that S&M makes a very nice jacket at a better than nice price.
Seems logical. Unless S&M have identified a case of diminishing returns to scale with current armhole size and came to the conclusion that they could decrease the armholes and keep current customers while appealing to new customers.

If the reality of things is as you described it, it might be a case of offering higher armholes strictly through custom orders. But again, until S&M states otherwise, I'm going to assume no/marginal price difference.

Interesting times ahead, nevertheless.
 
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spiermackay

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I think I read somewhere that it wasn't possible, so I never bothered to ask for it. Might be wrong though.

Can't Do it in MTO until the pattern is ready. Any change to the base pattern is not possible in MTO. Cosmetic changes can be accommodated, like a patch pocket in place of a flap.
 

spiermackay

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Fair enough, but that is the question that's neither been asked nor answered. If a lower armhole is designed to fit more customers, thereby keeping the sales volume high, despite lower margins because of the lower price, then a higher armhole will likely mean a higher price, unless S&M is willing to eat the difference - putting itself into competition with other companies that don't depend on higher volumes. As stated by some others here, Cavour and Natalino both have higher armholes and the price is likely appropriately reflected - a few hundred more I believe. Ring Jacket and Orazio, Attolini all come in at least a thousand+ more retail. But we agree that S&M makes a very nice jacket at a better than nice price.

A higher armhole is not more expensive to produce per garment. But it does narrow the market to which you are selling to, which means more niche products, lower volumes, which does increase overall costs.

I'll have to go back to my development notes, but the difference in armhole hight to which we can actually raise it without significantly alter the basic fit and comfort level is pretty small. About 1 cm or so.
 

XxLogo

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@spiermackay I am curious, will there be wool shirts/wool flannels here for FW21? Or even the shirt jacket in a tweed? It is so hard to find a nice wool flannel these days, or even a thicker cotton flannel shirt that doesn't fit like a box. With all of your casual releases lately, I'm sure people would like them. Then again, may just be me
 

spiermackay

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@spiermackay I am curious, will there be wool shirts/wool flannels here for FW21? Or even the shirt jacket in a tweed? It is so hard to find a nice wool flannel these days, or even a thicker cotton flannel shirt that doesn't fit like a box. With all of your casual releases lately, I'm sure people would like them. Then again, may just be me

The idea is to have wool overshirts. So we'll see. As mentioned. Developments are a pain right now.
 

losrockets

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A high rise "casual" chino doesn't make sense to me.

High rise pants look kind of silly with out a jacket, so why would there be a desire for the casual chino to be high waisted?

In a loose tapered silhouette they would be nice to wear with camp collar shirts and other such items. I have a few pairs of pants like this from Japanese makers and even Dockers old pleated Alpha khakis, they play nice with more directional, casual fits. I'm a 32w and have large thighs, there's never a time I enjoy low rise pants, man.
 

XxLogo

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The idea is to have wool overshirts. So we'll see. As mentioned. Developments are a pain right now.
Cool, I’m sure I will pick one up. Sucks how Covid happened as I’m sure you could make a bomb ass wool flannel shirt
 

Potatoe

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In a loose tapered silhouette they would be nice to wear with camp collar shirts and other such items. I have a few pairs of pants like this from Japanese makers and even Dockers old pleated Alpha khakis, they play nice with more directional, casual fits. I'm a 32w and have large thighs, there's never a time I enjoy low rise pants, man.
Can you post some photos of normal looking gents, in high rise casual chinos (no jacket). Would love to see.
 

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