SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[lqnoise]

It sounds as though it's too late, but I would be very cautious of fiddling around with jacket shoulders.

Although your tailor is clearly experienced, it's still easy to mess up shoulders and it's also an expensive exercise - at the affordable prices that S&M charge for jackets, you could end up paying 50% or more of the cost of the jacket just to have the shoulders adjusted. Ideally, it's much better to find a brand/cut that fits your shoulders in the first place, rather than having shoulder altered.

It's also worth noting that double-breasted jackets often have wider shoulders, so as to emphasise the shoulders and chest.

I know that suit shoulders is a major surgery but decided to give it a shot, since that DB was bought as a final sale no refund offer anyway.

And I’m currently experimenting with the extreme alterations just to get familiar with what’s possible.

But with sportcoat I’d rather have a good fit of the rack, so question still stands.

 

[SartorialSpyker]

I know that suit shoulders is a major surgery but decided to give it a shot, since that DB was bought as a final sale no refund offer anyway.

And I’m currently experimenting with the extreme alterations just to get familiar with what’s possible.

But with sportcoat I’d rather have a good fit of the rack, so question still stands.

It would be my advice to go with a 34 contemporary. The shoulder measurements are the same across 36 contemporary & slim; and the shoulders are much too wide on you, as well as the armholes too large.

 

[SartorialSpyker]

Was not aware of that. I'll have to take a look. Any idea on when he's planning to make it available?

Photo of the jacket for those that don’t want to trudge through the thread’s history, it has a box pleat on the upper back.

 

[DonRaphael]

Photo of the jacket for those that don’t want to trudge through the thread’s history, it has a box pleat on the upper back.

That looks great. Only wish it had elastic knit finishing around the cuffs and waist. Unfortunately, that's a deal breaker for me.

EDIT: have they provided any price target for it?

 

[lqnoise]

It would be my advice to go with a 34 contemporary. The shoulder measurements are the same across 36 contemporary & slim; and the shoulders are much too wide on you, as well as the armholes too large.

thanks for advice, one problem with size 34 is that they only have it as slim+short. Gonna need to doublecheck those measurements...

If anyone here wears 34/36 from spier and mackay please PM me your bone to bone shoulders and example of how it fits on you, would be eternally grateful

 

[pickergc]

Anyone with experience with the VBC fresco? Is it as coarse and sturdy/wrinkle resistant as the Minnis?

I have VBC pairs from two years ago and last year, and I have minnis that’s a suit.

The Minnis is a lot more substantial. I find the VBC to be a little too lacking but not unwearable. Minnis is more wrinkle resistant and more coarse. Having only had VBC fresco trousers and then getting minnis suit, I was shocked how heavy it was, to the point I wasn’t sold on it being warm weather fabric. But, when you wear it that open weave is really what makes it.

Minnis fresco this year is a light-er weight iteration than previous years.

 

[motorchang]

I have VBC pairs from two years ago and last year, and I have minnis that’s a suit.

The Minnis is a lot more substantial. I find the VBC to be a little too lacking but not unwearable. Minnis is more wrinkle resistant and more coarse. Having only had VBC fresco trousers and then getting minnis suit, I was shocked how heavy it was, to the point I wasn’t sold on it being warm weather fabric. But, when you wear it that open weave is really what makes it.

Minnis fresco this year is a light-er weight iteration than previous years.

Is fresco a type of fabric you would wear in spring or even early fall weather too? I'm looking into them but never had any garment in fresco before so I'm curious about their versatility

 

[breakaway01]

Is fresco a type of fabric you would wear in spring or even early fall weather too? I'm looking into them but never had any garment in fresco before so I'm curious about their versatility

Yes, could in fact wear it year round depending on temperature outside and how much time you’d be spending outside. Linen is a visibly seasonal fabric while fresco doesn’t look like a summer-only fabric. It’s just that the open weave lets wind through very easily, so it is not comfortable to wear outside when it’s cold. But if you don’t have to be outside in the winter (or it doesn’t get cold where you live) you could wear fresco year-round.

 

[pickergc]

Is fresco a type of fabric you would wear in spring or even early fall weather too? I'm looking into them but never had any garment in fresco before so I'm curious about their versatility

Generally, yes. There is at least one brand I can think of that had Minnis fresco tailoring in their most recent AW collection.

Minnis - all year
VBC would be 3 seasons for me - I’m not wearing on coldest days.

 

[anonymouz]

Long time read-only user here, looking for a fit advice

I’m pretty slim guy, but deliberately bought this double roasted SM size 36 suit in contemporary fit to have more classy boxy fit and more high waited trousers with it.

It turned up somewhat wide in the shoulders (pic below). I just took it to local bespoke tailor that also does suit alterstion to re-cut those shoulders a bit, yet to see how it will end up looking (in 2 weeks). But now I want to buy a spring sportcoat and would rather get it with better fit of the rack.

Would 36 slim fit me, or should I go for 34?

suit jacket fit photos are here:

I think you'll have to go MTO since the only 34 they make is 34s Slim which will probably be too slim and too short. The shoulder measurement between the slim and contemporary fits are the same.

 

[James1051]

In for two tonight. Grey (medium) and light brown. One single pleat and one FF. Had to have a look at the spring closet to see what wasn't duplication.
I would love to see something between the light brown and the dark brown (closer to the light brown).
Fresco season and flannel season are my favorites. Just an instant buy.

Agree about flannels and fresco.

I grabbed the light brown high rise. Trying to decide between the dark brown and medium brown. I like the dark brown better but wonder how much wear it will get in summer, with lighter colors

Anyone with experience with the VBC fresco? Is it as coarse and sturdy/wrinkle resistant as the Minnis?

Yes, and no. The VBC feels more like you would expect a summer weight trouser to feel. I wear them a lot in mid summer. The minnis is indeed more hefty.

 

[James1051]

Is fresco a type of fabric you would wear in spring or even early fall weather too? I'm looking into them but never had any garment in fresco before so I'm curious about their versatility

All depends on where you are. For me, Philadelphia area, the VBC fresco is too light and airy except in mid summer.

 

[SpierTeam]

Hello, gentlemen. We are trying to see if there would be any interest in a group buy for Dugdale Cavalry Twill trousers. We are looking at potentially offering 2-3 different colours in our high-rise trouser style, at a price of about $250 USD. If there is enough interest in these, orders would open up sometime in July/August, with delivery taking place between September-October. Please let us know if you would be interested in this potential project.

 

[wilcthree]

Hello, gentlemen. We are trying to see if there would be any interest in a group buy for Dugdale Cavalry Twill trousers. We are looking at potentially offering 2-3 different colours in our high-rise trouser style, at a price of about $250 USD. If there is enough interest in these, orders would open up sometime in July/August, with delivery taking place between September-October. Please let us know if you would be interested in this potential project.

Can you say more about what colors you’re considering? That would be a factor for me. I’m into Calvary twill so I’d be a potential buyer.

 

[losrockets]

What would it take for @SpierTeam to orchestrate a group buy MTO instead? I have been eyeing the light fawn from Dugdale for a while but don't really like your RTW trouser fit.