SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Stylewords]

The team are aware of this - it is not believed to be malicious and they are working to resolve it.

They've been working on it for about four years.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

so if your waist is 2 inches above your belly button, where do you, personally where your pants?

I realize that if we go by that metric by jackets are really close to my natural waist but then my pants sit 3-5” below!

Trousers that I intend to wear with a jacket or waist covering of some kind are worn at my natural waist. This allows me to either forego a belt or use side-adjusters when I choose. Some others, like summer trousers, are worn somewhat below this. Jeans are certainly lower.

Incidentally, the reason many modern, pleated trousers don't look good is that they aren't sitting at the proper height. They should hang like this:



- where the pleated area goes over and around the hips, and is cinched at the waist. The top is covered by the jacket, and the overall effect should be neither voluminous nor slouchy.

The ideally-proportioned man should be able to have his trouser waist, sitting precisely at the natural waist, and the buttoning point on a single-breasted jacket be at the same spot. This is obviously adjustable slightly in length of both jacket and trouser rise in order to achieve the illusion of the same effect, but the proportion should look the same on different bodily frames when compared. If you are after a different sort of look than idealized proportions, that's another story.

 

[Rassul-3D]

I purposely size up for the oxford shirts. I'm going to roll the dice ordering regular size for the denim shirt.

I purchased my regular size and a size up. If the size up works after a wash and dry I'm going to stick to that size for now.

 

[tripreed]

You don't need to shorten a shirt from the shoulder. You can:

1. remove the cuff and sleeve placket,
2. trim to length,
3. expand the **** upward equal length as was trimmed,
4. reattach pieces (in reverse order)

A lazy tailor will just cut the sleeve without removing the packet and reattach the cuff, which looks terrible unless you never remove your jacket. But the process above is only slightly more work.

So basically it would likely cost more than $30? Again, it would be cheaper to go MTO.

 

[wildcat10]

Anyone with experience on Hopsack trousers?

I already owned a Filarte navy hopsack blazer, and I picked up the matching trousers during trouser liquidation (not shipped yet).

I have been reading that hopsack is not an ideal fabric for trousers, but at $49 it seems worth the risk.

SPIER & MACKAY | Menswear Clothing Suits, Sportcoats, Jackets, Blazers, Shirts

We offer you the best value in menswear. You can enjoy beautiful Italian fabrics with high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail, all at reasonable prices. Shop now to check out our latest collection of classic style & sartorial tastes! Located In Mississauga, Ontario Canada We Offer...

www.spierandmackay.com

 

[XxLogo]

Anyone with experience on Hopsack trousers?

I already owned a Filarte navy hopsack blazer, and I picked up the matching trousers during trouser liquidation (not shipped yet).

I have been reading that hopsack is not an ideal fabric for trousers, but at $49 it seems worth the risk.

SPIER & MACKAY | Menswear Clothing Suits, Sportcoats, Jackets, Blazers, Shirts

We offer you the best value in menswear. You can enjoy beautiful Italian fabrics with high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail, all at reasonable prices. Shop now to check out our latest collection of classic style & sartorial tastes! Located In Mississauga, Ontario Canada We Offer...

www.spierandmackay.com

It ultimately comes down to the thickness/weight of the Hopsack for trousers. Too thin and it will just show everything, like thin white linen. Need that thickness right in the middle where it is still lightweight, but doesn’t show everything

 

[Torzano]

Anyone with experience on Hopsack trousers?

I already owned a Filarte navy hopsack blazer, and I picked up the matching trousers during trouser liquidation (not shipped yet).

I have been reading that hopsack is not an ideal fabric for trousers, but at $49 it seems worth the risk.

SPIER & MACKAY | Menswear Clothing Suits, Sportcoats, Jackets, Blazers, Shirts

We offer you the best value in menswear. You can enjoy beautiful Italian fabrics with high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail, all at reasonable prices. Shop now to check out our latest collection of classic style & sartorial tastes! Located In Mississauga, Ontario Canada We Offer...

www.spierandmackay.com

I have the filarte blazer. I think that hopsack is a tightly woven hopsack as opposed to loosely woven. I think that Filarte fabric would work fine as pants. I have other hopsack blazers that the same fabric wouldn’t work as pants.

 

[Eli Curt]

Has anyone here had a particularly tough time breaking in the loafers?

I did .5 miles Friday (broken up into two .25 mile trips).
I did 1.5 miles Saturday (broken up into 3 .5 mile trips).

I thought my left foot was going to fall off. The right one was chaffing somewhat but my left heel was rubbed completely raw and blistered. Much more intense than any other shoe I've worn.

I was limping by the time I made it back home.

 

[XxLogo]

Has anyone here had a particularly tough time breaking in the loafers?

I did .5 miles Friday (broken up into two .25 mile trips).
I did 1.5 miles Saturday (broken up into 3 .5 mile trips).

I thought my left foot was going to fall off. The right one was chaffing somewhat but my left heel was rubbed completely raw and blistered. Much more intense than any other shoe I've worn.

I was limping by the time I made it back home.

Shoes are particularly hard to break in during the colder months. A shoe takes the repetitive motion of your foot moving and the heat to soften and compress the leather, being cold means it will take longer to do so. Since you are only on short trips, with it taking longer to heat up the leather, it won't break in as easily. One tip I can give you is just wear them around the house for a few days, or even just sit down on the couch and massage the leather to loosen the fibers up. The worst thing to do is take a new pair of shoes out and walk a long distance as it sucks for your foot. It usually takes around 24 hours of total wear time to break in any shoe

 

[Eli Curt]

Shoes are particularly hard to break in during the colder months. A shoe takes the repetitive motion of your foot moving and the heat to soften and compress the leather, being cold means it will take longer to do so. Since you are only on short trips, with it taking longer to heat up the leather, it won't break in as easily. One tip I can give you is just wear them around the house for a few days, or even just sit down on the couch and massage the leather to loosen the fibers up. The worst thing to do is take a new pair of shoes out and walk a long distance as it sucks for your foot. It usually takes around 24 hours of total wear time to break in any shoe

My heel is still bandaged up from Saturday. Maybe I'll try to do this a bit in a week or so.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Trousers that I intend to wear with a jacket or waist covering of some kind are worn at my natural waist. This allows me to either forego a belt or use side-adjusters when I choose. Some others, like summer trousers, are worn somewhat below this. Jeans are certainly lower.

Incidentally, the reason many modern, pleated trousers don't look good is that they aren't sitting at the proper height. They should hang like this:

View attachment 1537881

- where the pleated area goes over and around the hips, and is cinched at the waist. The top is covered by the jacket, and the overall effect should be neither voluminous nor slouchy.

The ideally-proportioned man should be able to have his trouser waist, sitting precisely at the natural waist, and the buttoning point on a single-breasted jacket be at the same spot. This is obviously adjustable slightly in length of both jacket and trouser rise in order to achieve the illusion of the same effect, but the proportion should look the same on different bodily frames when compared. If you are after a different sort of look than idealized proportions, that's another story.

I always thought that picture looked ridiculous for showing ideal pleated trousers. He looks like a walking pear.

I like this picture better for showing rise. Once the rise gets this high, it doesn't look so good without a jacket, only with a jacket.

 

[Proleet]

My heel is still bandaged up from Saturday. Maybe I'll try to do this a bit in a week or so.

Is it your entire heal or just part of it? It could be that the shape of the heel is constructive on one side but not the other. Expanding it might then be an option

 

[Diogenes Laertius]

Where did S&M Chunky Cardigans go?

 

[XxLogo]

Where did S&M Chunky Cardigans go?

Their items usually get removed when they sell out of all sizes, so my guess is they are all sold out until next re-stock or next FW season

 

[masernaut]

Where did S&M Chunky Cardigans go?

Soooooold out.