SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[mbb355]

I think lot of this talk about high-rise vs mid-rise is pointless without talking about body proportions. If you have a relatively short torso you might look fine with a 10 inch rise but comical with rise over 11 inches. On the other hand, if you have a long torso you'll benefit from having higher rise.

This is Michael Phelps who's 6'4" but has only a 30 inch inseam. His extreme proportions that allowed him to be arguably the greatest Olympic athlete of all time also disqualifies him for OTR trousers.

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The closer to the average proportion you are the more likely high-rise and mid-rise becomes a question of taste. For people farther away from the average you don't really have a choice. I personally think the rise of SM and most OTR trousers run a bit short so it's nice to have the high rise option without having to go custom.

I mean sure but I think the point is that in recent years/decades, the trend has been toward lower rises, and fans of Spier and classic menswear rightly lament that trend. Rises should generally be higher because, your point about individual nuances notwithstanding, most people will look better in a higher rise that accentuates and divides the body at the natural waist, which is the natural dividing line between top of the body and bottom. Of course there are exceptions--that doesn't undermine the general rule.

 

[masernaut]

I mean sure but I think the point is that in recent years/decades, the trend has been toward lower rises, and fans of Spier and classic menswear rightly lament that trend. Rises should generally be higher because, your point about individual nuances notwithstanding, most people will look better in a higher rise that accentuates and divides the body at the natural waist, which is the natural dividing line between top of the body and bottom. Of course there are exceptions--that doesn't undermine the general rule.

High-rise = more room in the seat and thighs. As someone who isn't 6 foot 140 lbs, I prefer high-rise trousers.

 

[mbb355]

High-rise = more room in the seat and thighs. As someone who isn't 6 foot 140 lbs, I prefer high-rise trousers.

I roughly am those proportions and still prefer higher rise (and the extra room in the seat), lol

 

[abantigen]

I mean sure but I think the point is that in recent years/decades, the trend has been toward lower rises, and fans of Spier and classic menswear rightly lament that trend. Rises should generally be higher because, your point about individual nuances notwithstanding, most people will look better in a higher rise that accentuates and divides the body at the natural waist, which is the natural dividing line between top of the body and bottom. Of course there are exceptions--that doesn't undermine the general rule.

Yeah I get that completely and I think that's the general consensus here. I guess my comment was aimed at people who say the rise is already high enough without maybe realizing they're built differently.

 

[JayDee90]

The Guabello flannels in the high rise and at 280g sounds like an exceptional option for Mexican weather, right?

I am wondering how these compare to last year's covert twill weave trousers @spiermackay

 

[hschrapel]

I am wondering how these compare to last year's covert twill weave trousers @spiermackay

Would purchase all of them immediately if I was assured they fit significantly looser than last seasons covert

 

[wilcthree]

A lot of you guys are professionals when it comes to posting fit pics. I am not. Here’s my best attempt, though. After many rounds, here’s the best of ‘em. I admire folks who are more skilled than I in this. Tried to get a couple shots of the covert twills in action, which my tailor saved and was able to make wearable.
Sportcoat: SM shepherds check
Shirt: SM fine twill
Tie: Knottery grenadine
Trews: SM covert twills
Shoes: Yanko Belgians; Meermin suede oxfords

 

[Bidouleroux]

A lot of you guys are professionals when it comes to posting fit pics. I am not. Here’s my best attempt, though. After many rounds, here’s the best of ‘em. I admire folks who are more skilled than I in this. Tried to get a couple shots of the covert twills in action, which my tailor saved and was able to make wearable.

Dang, really hope they make these stone coverts again.

 

[wilcthree]

Dang, really hope they make these stone coverts again.

Me too. After getting these altered right, they are some of the most legit odd trousers I own.

 

[Betelgeuse]

What was the issue with the coverts?

 

[XxLogo]

What was the issue with the coverts?

If I have been reading correctly the past bit, it was that they were too tight in the seat and thigh, like a size or two too small, last time they were released.

 

[dapperclassic]

Well done ny friend.

I have this SC as well and love it. Looking forward to hear your thoughts on this year's iteration of thus jacket. I've abstained from acquiring it as I'm afraid it'll look to similar. Also, the mentioning of black in it kind of put me off. Love to hear your thoughts on both those matters once in your hands.

Thank you Sir. I have seen a closeup of the the swatch of the red Moon and i'm confident it's different enough, the pattern scale is also larger than this one I believe. The website pics I feel are a little over exposed.

@dapperclassic, this is probably my personal favorite outfit from you. I usually see you wear full suits, which you do very well, but this smart casual look is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Sorry for the belated response, I'm on the other side of the globe...

Many thanks my friend. I don't actually wear full suits often, I mix and match separates mostly if that's what you meant?

For those of you with side tabs on the trousers, I have a question. I know they function to adjust the waist, but how much adjustment is able to be cinched down? Is it like an half an inch in the waist or maybe an inch?

Around 0.75". S&M trousers come up quite large on the waist I found.

 

[DonRaphael]

Thank you Sir. I have seen a closeup of the the swatch of the red Moon and i'm confident it's different enough, the pattern scale is also larger than this one I believe. The website pics I feel are a little over exposed.

Looking forward to a comparison once you receive it. Maybe I'll acquire it myself if it's different enough.

 

[orange fury]

I am wondering how these compare to last year's covert twill weave trousers @spiermackay

Would purchase all of them immediately if I was assured they fit significantly looser than last seasons covert

What was the issue with the coverts?

yeah, I bought a couple pairs last season and they were waaaay too slim in Contemporary- like, skintight against my calves. They also seemed 1/2-3/4” too small in the waist for my usual size. Thankfully there was quite a bit of excess fabric, so they’re fine now that they’ve been let out.

 

[Betelgeuse]

yeah, I bought a couple pairs last season and they were waaaay too slim in Contemporary- like, skintight against my calves. They also seemed 1/2-3/4” too small in the waist for my usual size. Thankfully there was quite a bit of excess fabric, so they’re fine now that they’ve been let out.

Damn. I hope those Guabello are similar to the Sondrio's denim cotton/linen.