SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[lpast]

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Are these OTR or MTO?

 

[FlyingHorker]

I can also confirm the covert twill from last year are a little bit slimmer, especially considering they're "high rise" and pleated.

However, since the cavalry twill trousers you guys seem to be speaking of don't exist I would say those are infinitely slimmer.

what's the difference?

 

[ptfly]

I believe covert is the use of two color yarns (jaspe'/twisted yarn) in a twill. I think it is usually a single angled twill effect.
Cavalry twill is a weave structure. I would have to look in my weaving book but it is usually a steep angle and I usually recognize from a two line steep twill effect.
They are close cousins.

 

[hpreston]

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[mbb355]

In my experience as a noob and layperson, coverts and cav twills are very similar, but coverts have a bit more sheen and appear dressier. Since I prefer matte fabrics, I tend to prefer cav twills. Coverts often do have more complexity/depth of color than cav twills. Ultimately both are great and possible even the best trousers. Flannels are so bound up with fall/winter, but cav twills and coverts can be light enough to wear year-round, with all the elegance, drape, and versatility of flannels.

 

[soto_nw]

Hi

I am new to S&M

Are there big differences between S&M slim and contemporary fit ?
I wear 38R Lazio for suitsupply , which fit shall i go for ?

Thanks

I find that S&M Contemporary fits almost exactly the same as Suit Supply Havana in the same size (in chest and mid-section fits about identical to Havana, S&M has perhaps a tiny more cloth in the back, slightly fuller arms, and slightly longer arms).

 

[Bidouleroux]

what's the difference?

I believe covert is the use of two color yarns (twisted) in a twill and not a weave structure.
Cavalry twill is a weave structure. I would have to look in my weaving book but it is usually a steep angle.

They're both twills, but as ptfly says covert is specifically a twill with two different colors in the yarn. That mottled yarn can be used for both the warp and weft, or for just the warp.

Cavalry twill is a double twill. There's two lines of warp next to each other that make a small boxy pattern along the diagonal of the twill. The pattern might be more or less visible depending on the thickness of the yarn, but on winter weight cavalry twill it's unmistakable.

Spoiler: Best image I could find to show the pattern

 

[masernaut]

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Where is that first one?!

 

[losrockets]

Are shoulder/posture adjustments only available via MTM for jackets and trousers, @spiermackay?

 

[Burzan]

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Both are crazy good but here’s a few more pics of the first

 

[Burzan]

Where is that first one?!

MTO section

 

[masernaut]

MTO section

Oh darn it looks absolutely stunning.

 

[Burzan]

Oh darn it looks absolutely stunning.

There is a brown Abraham Moon houndstooth coming to RTW that should scratch the itch.

 

[masernaut]

There is a brown Abraham Moon houndstooth coming to RTW that should scratch the itch.

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I'm looking forward to it! But now that I've seen the MTO fabric... Haha.

 

[1st Step]

Gentlemen, We're Just Warming Up,...

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Mid Nov...