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XxLogo

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Another one of the Marling & Evans cloth coming to MTO. Although this one is a wool/linen so won’t officially show up until next spring, you can request it now if you like. Paired with a Spier turtleneck I picked up last year.

Kirkburton 16750/F6
50% wool 50% linen
Neapolitan cut
Full canvas
Milanese buttonhole
Jetted pockets
3 functional button cuff
1/4 pick stitching

View attachment 1461893
Who says you can't wear wool/linen in the FW season ?
 

James1051

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I understand that overcoats and polos will be added to the MTO menu, shortly?
@spiermackay will you have "L" long size patterns for your outerwear?
I assume that with MTO we will be able to add a couple inches length to the coats?
 

cr2596

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I guess I don't really get what they are going for with their pants, since their contemporary feels to me very much like a slim compared to just about anything else I own. I went up three inches in order to get enough room in the seat and thighs, and I found that to be no problem in the taking in of the waist. Yours look a touch small in the seat (with pockets pulling a bit) even on the size up? That's exactly what happened with me. I suppose I wish they offered 'extra slim', then 'slim', then 'classic'. I'd have thought the classic cut was gaining traction these days!

I don’t get it, either. It has been a big deterrent for me and my purchases. All of my trousers from Spier are too slim, minus the green seersucker suit trousers. But, those were purchased at 3” too large on the waist and HEAVILY altered. And, they’re far from perfect. Everything else was purchased at 1” larger waist, and they’re all tight in the thighs. I hesitate to pull them off the hanger, but it’s all I’ve got for now.

I want more suits, but I typically don’t purchase them for this reason. The chocolate linen suit is screaming my name, but I’m not willing to shell out the cash + heavy alteration $ for a still-off finished product, anymore. Thus, I’m stuck with mostly odd jacket and trousers combinations. I don’t consider other makers because the jacket style and fit and price point of Spier is just too good.

I’m not kidding when I say, I’m slowly learning to make trouser alterations myself. A sewing machine purchase is in my near future. I wish this wasn’t the route I have to go.
 

FlyingHorker

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Cool, I'd definitely get the off-watch cuff slimmer than OTR. Unsure what one-piece or Cooper collars are, but I am guessing they'd be more suited for the dress shirts rather than casual, no?
Too lazy to find pics of the one-piece collar.

Cooper collar is a form of a one-piece collar where even the placket and collar are one piece. If anything, it's best suited for casual due to lack of collar button. One below is from Deo Veritas.

one-piece-collar-detail2.jpg
 

An Acute Style

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I guess I don't really get what they are going for with their pants, since their contemporary feels to me very much like a slim compared to just about anything else I own. I went up three inches in order to get enough room in the seat and thighs, and I found that to be no problem in the taking in of the waist. Yours look a touch small in the seat (with pockets pulling a bit) even on the size up? That's exactly what happened with me. I suppose I wish they offered 'extra slim', then 'slim', then 'classic'. I'd have thought the classic cut was gaining traction these days!

I guess it’s all relative. I would personally consider S&M slim fit as an extra slim fit and S&M contemporary fit as a slim fit. I’m sure others may think the S&M slim fit is baggy. I also under the difficulties in having more than two pant fits as a small company. It is what it is. S&M still has lots of wonderful items that I can fit. Once they get bigger maybe they will introduce another pant fit. Until then, no more pants for me probably.
 

saskatoonjay

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I guess it’s all relative. I would personally consider S&M slim fit as an extra slim fit and S&M contemporary fit as a slim fit. I’m sure others may think the S&M slim fit is baggy. I also under the difficulties in having more than two pant fits as a small company. It is what it is. S&M still has lots of wonderful items that I can fit. Once they get bigger maybe they will introduce another pant fit. Until then, no more pants for me probably.
I like your take, AAS. SM already do some things better than anyone, but do they have to be everything to everybody? The daily product and fit requests here make me wonder: do people know there are other places that sell clothes, too?
 

XxLogo

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Too lazy to find pics of the one-piece collar.

Cooper collar is a form of a one-piece collar where even the placket and collar are one piece. If anything, it's best suited for casual due to lack of collar button. One below is from Deo Veritas.

one-piece-collar-detail2.jpg
Any additional cost for the one piece collar? May try it out if it looks good for a casual style
 

acapaca

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I like your take, AAS. SM already do some things better than anyone, but do they have to be everything to everybody? The daily product and fit requests here make me wonder: do people know there are other places that sell clothes, too?

Yeah, I certainly hear you on that. I guess I just find it perplexing because to me it feels as though the fit of their trousers feels out of sync with most everything else about the brand, which does not come across as particularly fashion forward.
 

FlyingHorker

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Any additional cost for the one piece collar? May try it out if it looks good for a casual style
No idea man, I'd ask CS about that, and if it's even possible yet.
Yeah, I certainly hear you on that. I guess I just find it perplexing because to me it feels as though the fit of their trousers feels out of sync with most everything else about the brand, which does not come across as particularly fashion forward.
IIRC, Rick said that people outside of SF said they found a lot of their trousers to be too baggy (!), and that's why extra slim fit is now a thing.

It must be tough trying to strike the right balance, but I think he also mentioned possibly introducing an athletic fit in the future as well.
 

XxLogo

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IIRC, Rick said that people outside of SF said they found a lot of their trousers to be too baggy (!), and that's why extra slim fit is now a thing.

It must be tough trying to strike the right balance, but I think he also mentioned possibly introducing an athletic fit in the future as well.
I wear the extra slim chinos and find them great quality. However, they definitely have more room in the calf and knee than most other "slim" chinos, and I don't take myself as having thin legs running and playing basketball most of my life. It is growing on me, however; Kind of averages the proportions. I don't like skin tight trousers either, the chinos have about 1-1.5" of fabric when pinched in the thigh, which is perfect.
 

OldTown

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No idea man, I'd ask CS about that, and if it's even possible yet.

IIRC, Rick said that people outside of SF said they found a lot of their trousers to be too baggy (!), and that's why extra slim fit is now a thing.

It must be tough trying to strike the right balance, but I think he also mentioned possibly introducing an athletic fit in the future as well.
If you look at many pictures of people on SF you'll notice the majority wear their pants much baggier than the average person these days. This forum leans heavily "vintage".
 

FlyingHorker

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If you look at many pictures of people on SF you'll notice the majority wear their pants much baggier than the average person these days. This forum leans heavily "vintage".
Yeah, it puts it into perspective. Us chunky thigh people are a definite minority, even on here.
 

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