SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Shandoeluna]

If you truly want only ONE suit and you're not prepared to stand out from the crowd, then forget about anything that's not listed as "navy" or "charcoal". All those medium blues and grays are great, but they stand out* (especially in fall/winter, regardless of the fact you live in the south).

Most versatile as both suit and separates would probably be a navy hopsack suit with patch pockets, as recommended by Brian Sacawa. Unfortunately, the only such thing in stock at the moment is the Guabello navy hopsack sportcoat + high-rise trousers. It's out of your price range and it's also a Neapolitan 3-roll-2 cut so it might stick out like a sore thumb in downtown Houston... However, if you think you can rock it with confidence I'd say: splurge! It's your only suit after all.


* And I say this as a ginger with a collection that's 90% not navy/charcoal.

Actually, I am open to standing out. My favourite colour is green, but I am not sure if my default suit is to wear a green suit to a funeral. Though technically for the most part my Jos A. Bank suit still fits ok and its charcoal grey is fine since I used it a few times on and off the past 4-5 years I had it. I don't plan on going to many funerals, but I am reaching the age where they start to happen for grandparents and elderly parent friends.

Just looked up what 3 roll 2 cut is. So basically it has 3 buttons, but only use the middle one vs the two button and use the top one?

 

[Shandoeluna]

Sharkskin has some shine, and "two-tone" here just means subtle crosshatching from two different colours of thread. It's a smooth twill. Denim is a twill, too; that's why your jeans have white threads showing under the blue.



My prediction? You'll get a basic, super-wearable navy suit, realize you love wearing a suit, and then you'll get a green fun one. And then you'll want more.

I recently gotten some Strand Walnut dress shoes from AE and I love pairing them with my N&F Green Core jeans so far. I been thinking of getting the Green Forest Kudu Cap Toe Grant Stone Boots just to wear with it too.

Sharkskin sheen sounds very appealing, maybe the local Suit Supply store has some example of it I can see what it looks in person. Brooks Brothers is closed still here each time I call them.

 

[Riva]

That's not really the same thing. She's handling the jacket. At a glance a neapolitan suit just looks like a suit to the majority of people.

This is why 3r2 is annoying. You never use the top button but people keep messing up when pressing it while the top button hole ruins the lapel roll when unbuttoned. Overall a style failure element that I believe will go away in the future. Thus my preference to get classical 2 buttons or whenever possible when MTO 1 button. Same as fake buttons, just keep them max 2 for casual jackets and 3 for formal suits.

 

[Riva]

Actually, I am open to standing out. My favourite colour is green, but I am not sure if my default suit is to wear a green suit to a funeral. Though technically for the most part my Jos A. Bank suit still fits ok and its charcoal grey is fine since I used it a few times on and off the past 4-5 years I had it. I don't plan on going to many funerals, but I am reaching the age where they start to happen for grandparents and elderly parent friends.

Just looked up what 3 roll 2 cut is. So basically it has 3 buttons, but only use the middle one vs the two button and use the top one?

I have more green jackets than any other colors. If it's dark enough it's ok for a funeral. How often do you go to a funeral anyway?

Yea 3r2 is the stupidest thing ever introduced to a jacket. Either make it a real 3 button or 2. If you want added sprezz do it through other ways.

 

[Eli Curt]

This is why 3r2 is annoying. You never use the top button but people keep messing up when pressing it while the top button hole ruins the lapel roll when unbuttoned. Overall a style failure element that I believe will go away in the future. Thus my preference to get classical 2 buttons or whenever possible when MTO 1 button. Same as fake buttons, just keep them max 2 for casual jackets and 3 for formal suits.

I disagree, sir.

 

[ezev]

This is why 3r2 is annoying. You never use the top button but people keep messing up when pressing it while the top button hole ruins the lapel roll when unbuttoned. Overall a style failure element that I believe will go away in the future. Thus my preference to get classical 2 buttons or whenever possible when MTO 1 button. Same as fake buttons, just keep them max 2 for casual jackets and 3 for formal suits.

So let it be written, so let it be done.

 

[XxLogo]

This is why 3r2 is annoying. You never use the top button but people keep messing up when pressing it while the top button hole ruins the lapel roll when unbuttoned. Overall a style failure element that I believe will go away in the future. Thus my preference to get classical 2 buttons or whenever possible when MTO 1 button. Same as fake buttons, just keep them max 2 for casual jackets and 3 for formal suits.

I don’t know why, may just be me, but it seems like you always have something negative/down to say about Spier’s selling wears. 3 Roll 2 is the stupidest thing invented, skip over Dino Filarte all together, etc. Everyone has their opinion, but everyone also has a choice. Buy the 3 roll 2 for what you like now, deal with it in the future if it’s out of style, no one can predict what comes and goes out of style, these Neapolitan Style jackets definitely aren’t a Fast Fashion piece. I don’t think Rick would be selling these if no one bought them or they’d be going out of style in a couple years lol
For the people that wear them and post them here, they look great. I would definitely buy one, it is just the bigger lapel and wider shoulder putting me off on trying.

 

[SJR3]

I don’t know why, may just be me, but it seems like you always have something negative/down to say about Spier’s selling wears. 3 Roll 2 is the stupidest thing invented, skip over Dino Filarte all together, etc. Everyone has their opinion, but everyone also has a choice. Buy the 3 roll 2 for what you like now, deal with it in the future if it’s out of style, no one can predict what comes and goes out of style, these Neapolitan Style jackets definitely aren’t a Fast Fashion piece. I don’t think Rick would be selling these if no one bought them or they’d be going out of style in a couple years lol
For the people that wear them and post them here, they look great. I would definitely buy one, it is just the bigger lapel and wider shoulder putting me off on trying.

My god...............

 

[boot_owl]

Actually, I am open to standing out. My favourite colour is green, but I am not sure if my default suit is to wear a green suit to a funeral. Though technically for the most part my Jos A. Bank suit still fits ok and its charcoal grey is fine since I used it a few times on and off the past 4-5 years I had it. I don't plan on going to many funerals, but I am reaching the age where they start to happen for grandparents and elderly parent friends.

Just looked up what 3 roll 2 cut is. So basically it has 3 buttons, but only use the middle one vs the two button and use the top one?

i have a bespoke Holland and sherry crispaire suit that looks charcoal indoors and only shows the green in the light

 

[Eli Curt]

I disagree, sir.

@Riva
I'll elaborate a bit.

Let's begin with deconstructing the S&M "Neapolitan" style. This style is not really Neapolitan. It's more Florentine, which is no secret, and specifically draws most of its design influence from Liverano's pattern.

It's longer in the body than traditional Neapolitan suits, and its negative-bellied lapels, while adopted by some Neapolitan houses, aren't indicative of Neapolitan style per se'. The round, very open quarters, are also not quite Neapolitan but more in line with the flowing-lines Antonio cuts his patterns in. With that being said, you are conclusively taking umbrage with Antonio's pattern - which is fine, but it's important for others reading this to know which style bothers you.

So if you're targeting the house style of Liverano & Liverano, let's look at a few examples of their work which you can then deconstruct and better explain why they bother you. Because the S&M Neo cut is, after all, a poor man's Liverano suit. And they're doing a TERRIFIC job at that - arguably a much better value proposition than shelling out for Liverano. Shall we begin? Please address any of the below fits, ranging from fairly casual to fairly formal:

 

[Shandoeluna]

Maybe this isn't the best way, or most original or creative, but I like to find pictures of people I respect (their clothing sensibilities) and try to emulate them. All these options lie in a relatively narrow bandwidth - most of the differences will depend on what you're going for and personal taste. Perhaps start by finding what you want to look like, and go from there.

As for sizing, take advantage of their free return shipping for your first suit/jacket purchase. YMMV, it's unlikely someone will be able to provide detailed information that will lead to the correct size. If they do, it's probably more luck than expertise. Order some sizes, try some stuff on take some fit pics, post them here or the "tailors" thread to get more nuanced insight to sizing.

Unfortunately, your state government has failed the public fantastically so normally I'd say since you live in Houston, go to S*itsupply on Westheimer and try on some jackets to get an idea. There is a lot of history in this thread of matching sizes. Until then, GL in your journey.

Edit: not advocating purchasing from S*itsupply - just to find sizing. I'm S&M all the way, don't get the wrong idea.

Though actually it seems a bit awkward to go there to ask to get fitted and not buy anything.

 

[Riva]

@Riva
I'll elaborate a bit.

Let's begin with deconstructing the S&M "Neapolitan" style. This style is not really Neapolitan. It's more Florentine, which is no secret, and specifically draws most of its design influence from Liverano's pattern.

It's longer in the body than traditional Neapolitan suits, and its negative-bellied lapels, while adopted by some Neapolitan houses, aren't indicative of Neapolitan style per se'. The round, very open quarters, are also not quite Neapolitan but more in line with the flowing-lines Antonio cuts his patterns in. With that being said, you are conclusively taking umbrage with Antonio's pattern - which is fine, but it's important for others reading this to know which style bothers you.

So if you're targeting the house style of Liverano & Liverano, let's look at a few examples of their work which you can then deconstruct and better explain why they bother you. Because the S&M Neo cut is, after all, a poor man's Liverano suit. And they're doing a TERRIFIC job at that - arguably a much better value proposition than shelling out for Liverano. Shall we begin? Please address any of the below fits, ranging from fairly casual to fairly formal:

View attachment 1417355
View attachment 1417356
View attachment 1417358
View attachment 1417359

I went to the Armoury's Liverano trunk show in HK, met Taka and Antonio himself, tried on and had extensive discussion regarding their cut and fit. But this isn't about them and their style which I don't find particularly exceptional (especially if you're paying for a MTM Liverano).

 

[norMD]

i have a bespoke Holland and sherry crispaire suit that looks charcoal indoors and only shows the green in the light

View attachment 1417327

That is a great color. Simon crompton has a similar linen suit.

Maybe a neo in dark Green VBC 4-ply could be a good idea..

 

[Riva]

I don’t know why, may just be me, but it seems like you always have something negative/down to say about Spier’s selling wears. 3 Roll 2 is the stupidest thing invented, skip over Dino Filarte all together, etc. Everyone has their opinion, but everyone also has a choice. Buy the 3 roll 2 for what you like now, deal with it in the future if it’s out of style, no one can predict what comes and goes out of style, these Neapolitan Style jackets definitely aren’t a Fast Fashion piece. I don’t think Rick would be selling these if no one bought them or they’d be going out of style in a couple years lol
For the people that wear them and post them here, they look great. I would definitely buy one, it is just the bigger lapel and wider shoulder putting me off on trying.

You should be thankful that someone (me) has been buying a shitload of SM on a whim that I can actually inform others in an open and honest manner about what to get and avoid, the different levels of quality that can be found vs price differences, etc. Hell I probably bought more SM jackets than some influencers here and on IG. I never forced anyone to buy any particular item so chill out. I agree that SM Neo is probably hot right now due to trend / hype (forgetting proper fit as always) but I disagree regarding them never going out of style as I've been in this hobby long enough flipping garments nonstop to know how fast even within CM things change. And no I never commented but many pics of Neo looks bad on the fit pics posted here. Some people just don't have the body to wear a Neo cut.

 

[Eli Curt]

I went to the Armoury's Liverano trunk show in HK, met Taka and Antonio himself, tried on and had extensive discussion regarding their cut and fit. But this isn't about them and their style which I don't find particularly exceptional (especially if you're paying for a MTM Liverano).

It is. That's what Neo is based off. Which style do you seek to emulate?