SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[spiermackay]

Pics of the new shoes, Rick?

I'm on my way to the Portuguese factory on Thursday to discuss the program. Don't have the samples in hand.

But preliminary details are Full Grain Calf. Leather sourced in France. Same Tannery as J.M. Weston. GYW. We initially developed a last similar to the C&J 373, which is a chisel toe. Came out excellent. Quality is a notch above Meermin IMO. Target price of $349 CAD/$279 USD.

 

[JustinW]

Will there be wide sizes?

 

[spiermackay]

Will there be wide sizes?

Initially a D width.

 

[Santastinks]

Just picked up the olive moleskin jacket, and holy hell is it nice.

I have never been the biggest fan of patch pockets or pick sticking, but it comes together beautifully.

 

[Burzan]

Just picked up the olive moleskin jacket, and holy hell is it nice.

I have never been the biggest fan of patch pockets or pick sticking, but it comes together beautifully.

Great choice, the moleskin jackets really made up beautifully in both style and fit.

 

[teknique22]

I bought two suits - 36R Slim and 36R Contemporary. The shoulder length appears to be the same for both (17.3"), however they feel very different during wear, and I can't figure out the reason why. Is the bicep cut differently? Is the pitch adjusted in the Contemporary? Please see below, and help advise for why this may be the case:

36R Slim

36R Contemporary

 

[Patrick R]

I'm not going to speculate why based on a single photo, but the contemporary is your fit.

 

[teknique22]

I'm not going to speculate why based on a single photo, but the contemporary is your fit.

Perhaps you could help speculate based on the uploaded images below? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

36R Slim - https://imgur.com/a/cXiO7
36R Contemporary - https://imgur.com/a/MIyBc
Adjustment areas https://imgur.com/a/ou1W1

 

[Burzan]

Perhaps you could help speculate based on the uploaded images below? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

36R Slim - https://imgur.com/a/cXiO7
36R Contemporary - https://imgur.com/a/MIyBc
Adjustment areas https://imgur.com/a/ou1W1

Contemporary looks way better on you without question. That bump on the back of the neck is from a neck back posture. A tailor should be able to remove the collar and take up the extra material I would think.

I believe the chest, waist, bicep, and armhole are all adjusted on the contemporary to have more room. In your case that is certainly helping it drape better.

 

[Patrick R]

I'm not a tailor. I recognize problems just fine, but leave them to my tailors to diagnose and fix. Sorry. You should have better luck in the tailor's thread.

Separately, the pants you are wearing in the photos are not good fits. Don't be afraid to size up and tailor down on both the jackets and pants. I think your preference for a close fit is causing issues.

 

[Murlsquirl]

You might even want to try sizing up.

 

[exfalso]

however they feel very different during wear, and I can't figure out the reason why

This one is easy at least -- contemporary jackets are wider in the chest/waist area, and 36 slim is definitely too small for you. It is difficult to tell from the photos, but I'd say it's mostly because of some pulling in the upper chest area.

 

[teknique22]

Contemporary looks way better on you without question. That bump on the back of the neck is from a neck back posture. A tailor should be able to remove the collar and take up the extra material I would think.

I believe the chest, waist, bicep, and armhole are all adjusted on the contemporary to have more room. In your case that is certainly helping it drape better.

Definitely makes sense. I don't think it's a huge alteration. I agree the Contemporary definitely looks better, but it is with trade-offs, mainly a square cut and definitely not as form-fitting. I just think that going that route is just adding allowance rather than figuring out the actual cause of the issue.

I know for a fact I have forward, sloping shoulders and in addition I strongly believe the sleeve pitch is off on the 36R Slim. Do you think the "divots" in my shoulder appear to be caused from a simple sleeve pitch adjustment? If that's the case, which I think it is, as the dimples do disappear when I hold my arms in front of me, then I believe the only alteration I would need is maybe Chest +0.5" and a rotated sleeve to fix the arm area. Thoughts?

 

[teknique22]

This one is easy at least -- contemporary jackets are wider in the chest/waist area, and 36 slim is definitely too small for you. It is difficult to tell from the photos, but I'd say it's mostly because of some pulling in the upper chest area.

What about the arm drag lines? Upper bicep/shoulder area. I think the way to go is +0.5" (in between Slim and Contemporary) in the chest and adjust the sleeve pitch. Thoughts?

 

[infinidox]

Contemporary looks way better on you without question. That bump on the back of the neck is from a neck back posture. A tailor should be able to remove the collar and take up the extra material I would think.

I believe the chest, waist, bicep, and armhole are all adjusted on the contemporary to have more room. In your case that is certainly helping it drape better.

I've had to get the back of neck/shoulders fixed on my sport coats/suit jacket because of that same wrinkle. Costs me $55. Seems to be because of forward-leaning/hunched shoulders, so fixing that portion of your posture might solve the issue.