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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spiermackay, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Maybe.
     


  2. CMAc7

    CMAc7 Senior Member

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    :nodding:
     


  3. nqtri

    nqtri Senior Member

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    Thanks it's the microcheck. The fabric is amazing.

    Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders. Some suggested to try a size up and I did before, the 38 is big width-wise for me and I think the 36 contemporary has the same shoulder width. My tailor told me to bring the suit in on Monday so she could see the issues but I figured I might just return this and wait for the S/S sportcoats if the problems are not tolerable or fixable. Spalla camicia shoulders have been working well for me anyway.

    IMG_5176.JPG
    IMG_3469.JPG
    IMG_0708.JPG
     


  4. JamesTu

    JamesTu Member

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    Me too dude!! the slim 15 can't fit my ticccc neck and my body. I want to say thank you rick for releasing the ESF shirt. Love you and the company!!
     


  5. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Distinguished Member

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    i am sorry to tell you that jacket just doe not fit you well. The back, the shoulders, the arm angle. Its just not a good fit to start. sure a good tailor could clean most of that up for you, but you really should be looking for a better fit to start with OTR.
     


  6. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    Try a size up. Will give enough room for your alterations tailor to work with.
     


  7. James1051

    James1051 Senior Member

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    My non-professional $0.02 (and not even worth that):
    shoulders are dimpled, but maybe that can be fixed with pressing
    straight on shot, looks too short
    side shot, looks too tailored around the middle. jackets that are really pulled in in the middle like that tend to make a normal size butt look big, and give a sway back look.

    Handsome jacket though. Love the lapels.
     


  8. razl

    razl Stylish Dinosaur

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    From the pics, I still say the shoulders just don't fit you well. State-of-the-art wisdom says that is either something that your tailor can't fix or will be expensive and a roll of the dice. However, I'd say run it by him anyway just in case it's the photos/pose that is the problem, maybe in real life it's different and he should know.

    One other idea, measure your jacket and confirm that it matches the site's. It's always possible you got a fluke and/or it's off in a weird way, it's at least worth double checking. Remember, these things aren't cloned, at some point there's real world people working on this and even with excellent processes there will still be tolerances and ranges of accuracy.

    Hope that helps, you're on the right track insofar as asking questions and soliciting feedback - good luck!
     


  9. razl

    razl Stylish Dinosaur

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    One other thought, and this is from an untrained but informed eye, I wonder if you have a slightly narrow shoulders-to-torso/hip ratio. It would help to explain why the shoulders seem slightly big but the general chest and quarters seem to land ok (I'm ignoring the whole too-short aspect since length is a generally easier fix).

    Ask your tailor who, again, in person should have a better assessment. If you do, you're probably going to really have to search further in the RTW market for a maker/model that works with your frame.
     


  10. Patrick R

    Patrick R Distinguished Member

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    In addition to the other comments above, a jacket with enormous lapels (which that jacket has) needs to fit more generously. One of the reasons we’ve seen so many tiny lapels recently is because jackets have been shorter and tighter; a narrower lapel fits that aesthetic. IMO, if you’re going to wear giant lapels, there shouldn’t be pulling your button and the front quarters should not be splayed because of tightness.
     


  11. razl

    razl Stylish Dinosaur

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    +1, well said and FWIW I concur.
     


  12. nqtri

    nqtri Senior Member

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    Thank you all, into the return box it is. When you said try sizing up, does that mean going from slim to contemporary or going from 36 slim (currently) to 38 slim? It's a shame as I really like the lapel and I'm in need of a full suit but I guess for the time being I'll just stick to the slim sportcoat cut (with spalla camicia shoulders, not sure if that'd make a difference) as the 36 slim has been working in my favor. However, as long as I try deviating from that, like this peak lapel suit with the traditional shoulder or the Neapolitan fit SC I tried before, it doesn't fit well.

    Tough to measure the garments to compare between fit as the size chart, I believe is more of body measurements with only some elements of exact measurements of the piece (i.e sleeve, length, shoulder).

    I'm not sure how much of that ratio is considered narrow but I know that I have a slightly wide shoulder and hip. That's why I had to size up my trousers size when ordering this suit.
     


  13. nqtri

    nqtri Senior Member

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    I got some of that thoughts as well when I was trying on. At some angles, I felt that the big lapel makes me look wider around the chest, narrow in waist and have a shorter upper body and that gave me second thoughts. I think this guy has the peak lapel suit with better proportions.

    12231033_491370321045279_211156711_n.jpg
     


  14. Patrick R

    Patrick R Distinguished Member

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    Yes, those models look better in their suits than you and I look in ours. lol

    Joking aside, I think you are right that the proportions are much better in those shots.

    However, we also need to be careful about judging too much from a single photo. Yesterday I took a picture of myself in one of my suits (spoilered because it's not S&M). I used my iPhone to take the photo and the angle isn't ideal (the phone was about hip high). Looking only at the first picture below, I think the suit is less flattering than it could be.

    20180112Full.jpg

    However, I previously took a photo of the same suit with my DSLR, at a better angle (about chest high), and under better lighting conditions. By comparison, I think the suit looks pretty great.

    20171216EpauletSouthwickDanubeBlue.jpg

    My point is that single static photos can only tell us so much. I saw that first photo above from yesterday and thought, "I better confirm that this suit isn't actually making me look smaller at the shoulders and larger at the waist and it's just the iPhone/angle causing it to look that way." I looked at myself in the mirror, saw something that matched the second photo, and went on my way.

    Use our feedback and what you see in the photo to test for what might be wrong in the suit. But make the final decision based on what you see in real life.
     


  15. Patrick R

    Patrick R Distinguished Member

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    And while I'm posting photos, here's a shot of my S&M (VBC) houndstooth suit from Thursday:

    20180111Piece.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018 at 1:25 PM


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