SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[spiermackay]

Rick, I am soooo ready for that extra slim fit!! Saw the measurement today and the 15 1/2 is spot on for my body!!

Stock is scheduled to arrive next week.

 

[CMAc7]

Stock is scheduled to arrive next week.

Does this stock include the LONG anticipated lighter wash denim shirts?

 

[spiermackay]

Does this stock include the LONG anticipated lighter wash denim shirts?

Maybe.

 

[CMAc7]

Maybe.

 

[nqtri]

You look like a ******* baller. Hell yeah. Is that the microcheck?

Thanks it's the microcheck. The fabric is amazing.

I've read that the cause of shoulder divots is often the shape of the armhole.

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/divot-terror.151698/#post-2686570

Baller, until you see the shoulders then I think "Oh, he doesn't know how a jacket should fit". Seriously, from that pic we're not talking divots, it flat out looks like the shoulder/sleeve-head combo doesn't fit him.


The key take away from that post (kudos @jefferyd for it) is "The only way to know if a jacket is gong to do this is to try it on. If it dents, try a size up or try a different maker." I'll add "...or a different model/variant."

That's not to say Jefferyd's explanation is the sole reason for divots, there can be others, but for RTW it's the simplest explanation + fix guidance around.

The knuckle test is useless for shorter Asian guys (which I suppose you are?). We have similar build, I need suit jacket to reach almost the end of my thumb for a good fit. If anyone thinks it is short from the front, it means it is significantly short on the back. I would say it is almost an inch short to be right

Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders. Some suggested to try a size up and I did before, the 38 is big width-wise for me and I think the 36 contemporary has the same shoulder width. My tailor told me to bring the suit in on Monday so she could see the issues but I figured I might just return this and wait for the S/S sportcoats if the problems are not tolerable or fixable. Spalla camicia shoulders have been working well for me anyway.

Spoiler

 

[JamesTu]

I've always had to size up to 15 to get a collar that comfortably closes when wearing a tie, but the body/shoulders are a bit too big. The body of a 14.5 fits me better.

Looking at the ESF in 15, it seems like it will be the best of both worlds for me.

Me too dude!! the slim 15 can't fit my ticccc neck and my body. I want to say thank you rick for releasing the ESF shirt. Love you and the company!!

 

[WillingToLearn]

Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders. Some suggested to try a size up and I did before, the 38 is big width-wise for me and I think the 36 contemporary has the same shoulder width. My tailor told me to bring the suit in on Monday so she could see the issues but I figured I might just return this and wait for the S/S sportcoats if the problems are not tolerable or fixable. Spalla camicia shoulders have been working well for me anyway.

i am sorry to tell you that jacket just doe not fit you well. The back, the shoulders, the arm angle. Its just not a good fit to start. sure a good tailor could clean most of that up for you, but you really should be looking for a better fit to start with OTR.

 

[kulata]

Thanks it's the microcheck. The fabric is amazing.







Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders. Some suggested to try a size up and I did before, the 38 is big width-wise for me and I think the 36 contemporary has the same shoulder width. My tailor told me to bring the suit in on Monday so she could see the issues but I figured I might just return this and wait for the S/S sportcoats if the problems are not tolerable or fixable. Spalla camicia shoulders have been working well for me anyway.

View attachment 907198

Spoiler

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Try a size up. Will give enough room for your alterations tailor to work with.

 

[James1051]

Thanks it's the microcheck. The fabric is amazing.







Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders. Some suggested to try a size up and I did before, the 38 is big width-wise for me and I think the 36 contemporary has the same shoulder width. My tailor told me to bring the suit in on Monday so she could see the issues but I figured I might just return this and wait for the S/S sportcoats if the problems are not tolerable or fixable. Spalla camicia shoulders have been working well for me anyway.

View attachment 907198

Spoiler

View attachment 907199
View attachment 907200

My non-professional $0.02 (and not even worth that):
shoulders are dimpled, but maybe that can be fixed with pressing
straight on shot, looks too short
side shot, looks too tailored around the middle. jackets that are really pulled in in the middle like that tend to make a normal size butt look big, and give a sway back look.

Handsome jacket though. Love the lapels.

 

[razl]

Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders.

From the pics, I still say the shoulders just don't fit you well. State-of-the-art wisdom says that is either something that your tailor can't fix or will be expensive and a roll of the dice. However, I'd say run it by him anyway just in case it's the photos/pose that is the problem, maybe in real life it's different and he should know.

One other idea, measure your jacket and confirm that it matches the site's. It's always possible you got a fluke and/or it's off in a weird way, it's at least worth double checking. Remember, these things aren't cloned, at some point there's real world people working on this and even with excellent processes there will still be tolerances and ranges of accuracy.

Hope that helps, you're on the right track insofar as asking questions and soliciting feedback - good luck!

 

[razl]

Thank you all for the input. I've managed to get some more proper standing photos with better angles here. So let's have the final verdict on the length and the shoulders.

One other thought, and this is from an untrained but informed eye, I wonder if you have a slightly narrow shoulders-to-torso/hip ratio. It would help to explain why the shoulders seem slightly big but the general chest and quarters seem to land ok (I'm ignoring the whole too-short aspect since length is a generally easier fix).

Ask your tailor who, again, in person should have a better assessment. If you do, you're probably going to really have to search further in the RTW market for a maker/model that works with your frame.

 

[Patrick R]

In addition to the other comments above, a jacket with enormous lapels (which that jacket has) needs to fit more generously. One of the reasons we’ve seen so many tiny lapels recently is because jackets have been shorter and tighter; a narrower lapel fits that aesthetic. IMO, if you’re going to wear giant lapels, there shouldn’t be pulling your button and the front quarters should not be splayed because of tightness.

 

[razl]

In addition to the other comments above, a jacket with enormous lapels (which that jacket has) needs to fit more generously. One of the reasons we’ve seen so many tiny lapels recently is because jackets have been shorter and tighter; a narrower lapel fits that aesthetic. IMO, if you’re going to wear giant lapels, there shouldn’t be pulling your button and the front quarters should not be splayed because of tightness.

+1, well said and FWIW I concur.

 

[nqtri]

i am sorry to tell you that jacket just doe not fit you well. The back, the shoulders, the arm angle. Its just not a good fit to start. sure a good tailor could clean most of that up for you, but you really should be looking for a better fit to start with OTR.

Try a size up. Will give enough room for your alterations tailor to work with.

My non-professional $0.02 (and not even worth that):
shoulders are dimpled, but maybe that can be fixed with pressing
straight on shot, looks too short
side shot, looks too tailored around the middle. jackets that are really pulled in in the middle like that tend to make a normal size butt look big, and give a sway back look.

Handsome jacket though. Love the lapels.

From the pics, I still say the shoulders just don't fit you well. State-of-the-art wisdom says that is either something that your tailor can't fix or will be expensive and a roll of the dice. However, I'd say run it by him anyway just in case it's the photos/pose that is the problem, maybe in real life it's different and he should know.

One other idea, measure your jacket and confirm that it matches the site's. It's always possible you got a fluke and/or it's off in a weird way, it's at least worth double checking. Remember, these things aren't cloned, at some point there's real world people working on this and even with excellent processes there will still be tolerances and ranges of accuracy.

Hope that helps, you're on the right track insofar as asking questions and soliciting feedback - good luck!

In addition to the other comments above, a jacket with enormous lapels (which that jacket has) needs to fit more generously. One of the reasons we’ve seen so many tiny lapels recently is because jackets have been shorter and tighter; a narrower lapel fits that aesthetic. IMO, if you’re going to wear giant lapels, there shouldn’t be pulling your button and the front quarters should not be splayed because of tightness.

Thank you all, into the return box it is. When you said try sizing up, does that mean going from slim to contemporary or going from 36 slim (currently) to 38 slim? It's a shame as I really like the lapel and I'm in need of a full suit but I guess for the time being I'll just stick to the slim sportcoat cut (with spalla camicia shoulders, not sure if that'd make a difference) as the 36 slim has been working in my favor. However, as long as I try deviating from that, like this peak lapel suit with the traditional shoulder or the Neapolitan fit SC I tried before, it doesn't fit well.

Tough to measure the garments to compare between fit as the size chart, I believe is more of body measurements with only some elements of exact measurements of the piece (i.e sleeve, length, shoulder).

One other thought, and this is from an untrained but informed eye, I wonder if you have a slightly narrow shoulders-to-torso/hip ratio. It would help to explain why the shoulders seem slightly big but the general chest and quarters seem to land ok (I'm ignoring the whole too-short aspect since length is a generally easier fix).

Ask your tailor who, again, in person should have a better assessment. If you do, you're probably going to really have to search further in the RTW market for a maker/model that works with your frame.

I'm not sure how much of that ratio is considered narrow but I know that I have a slightly wide shoulder and hip. That's why I had to size up my trousers size when ordering this suit.

 

[nqtri]

In addition to the other comments above, a jacket with enormous lapels (which that jacket has) needs to fit more generously. One of the reasons we’ve seen so many tiny lapels recently is because jackets have been shorter and tighter; a narrower lapel fits that aesthetic. IMO, if you’re going to wear giant lapels, there shouldn’t be pulling your button and the front quarters should not be splayed because of tightness.

I got some of that thoughts as well when I was trying on. At some angles, I felt that the big lapel makes me look wider around the chest, narrow in waist and have a shorter upper body and that gave me second thoughts. I think this guy has the peak lapel suit with better proportions.