SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[DonRaphael]

I didn't send any specifics, just asked about outsourcing a brown linen. Oksana from their customer service team said "and we currently do not outsource fabrics." That was back in Novemeber. I would be interested in doing something from Drapers or W Bill, though.

Drapers was possible before, but pricey. W Bill hasn't been an option previously when I asked about them specifically.

 

[ppk]

Really? I emailed them a few months back, and they said they were not able to do this. I'll send a message on instagram now. I hope this is the case.

Edit, when I sent them a DM on instagram, I got a note that "this account can't receive my message because they don't allow new message requests from everyone." How else are people reaching out via instagram?

I got the same response. Hopefully, this has changed.

 

[AnElepahntCage]

It's interesting, as Don said that he reached out last week. I don't think my instagram DM went through, which is too bad. Unsure how else to get in touch with someone.

 

[hdub]

I see they added a new Relaxed fit trouser option in their custom clothing order form. Has anyone tried it? I love my Spier Jackets but the pants have been too tight for me until now. Might put in a full suit order soon.

I placed a MTM trouser order in the relaxed fit a couple of weeks ago. Their pants have also been too tight for me so I based the order on my Luxire trousers that are perfect. We shall see how they are when they arrive.

 

[NORE]

The only linen that will look decent in any tailoring is a very heavy one, it holds a crease on the pants much better. But it is not really suitable for summer.

Not true, I just sold a Navy linen suit in Angelico fabric that wrinkled wonderfully. I guess the weight at about 300g.

 

[ppk]

To reach the custom team, send an email to [email protected]. They (Oksana) are usually very responsive.

 

[2942]

Has anyone purchased this sweater? If yes, your insight on sizing and overall fit would be much appreciated.

 

[jars_mcdad]

Been looking at buying a sportcoat in the Neo cut. Online size tool says I should be a 38S slim. I'm 5'7, 143 lbs, and have a 37" chest and a 31" waist. With these in mind, I went to my local Uniqlo, since they're the only place around that has an online garment measurement guide that also sells blazers. According to Uniqlo, the size XS blazer pictured has 18 inch shoulders, and a 41" chest measurement, very close to the 38S slim Neo cut size guide. How is the fit on this? Obviously it's using a cheaper material, but I wanted to go for getting the best possible guesstimate for the fit of the Neo 38S slim. Is this a good size? Or should I go for a different size/cut? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[WoolyLamb]

Anyone have any experience with the knit polos in either linen/cotton or the high twist cottons?

Im looking for that vintage vibe just not sure on the quality and fit of these.

 

[oucheebooboo]

Great idea to try something on locally!

There are several fabrication flaws that compromise a definitive determination, but in my opinion, it appears size appropriate (shoulders look good), though not the greatest cut for you. (My comments are posted w/ the understanding this is not the coat you’d be choosing.)

1. There’s something going on with the chest. Perhaps it’s your shirt choice, or just an arm scythe issue. (Noticeable when you raise your phone.)
2. Your right shoulder (stage right) seems to be suffering from a poor cut in the design. A picture from the back would also be helpful.
3. Finally, It presents a bit “hippy”…with little in the way of waist suppression. (Did you get a jacket-waist measurement to compare w/ S&M?)

I imagine you’d look better in the more “dynamically cut” Neo. You might get, a better visual “V” impression, owing to the wider lapels and negative belly.

Keep up the good work. You’re getting there!

 

[jars_mcdad]

Great idea to try something on locally!

There are several fabrication flaws that compromise a definitive determination, but in my opinion, it appears size appropriate (shoulders look good), though not the greatest cut for you. (My comments are posted w/ the understanding this is not the coat you’d be choosing.)

1. There’s something going on with the chest. Perhaps it’s your shirt choice, or just an arm scythe issue. (Noticeable when you raise your phone.)
2. Your right shoulder (stage right) seems to be suffering from a poor cut in the design. A picture from the back would also be helpful.
3. Finally, It presents a bit “hippy”…with little in the way of waist suppression. (Did you get a jacket-waist measurement to compare w/ S&M?)

I imagine you’d look better in the more “dynamically cut” Neo. You might get, a better visual “V” impression, owing to the wider lapels and negative belly.

Keep up the good work. You’re getting there!

Just a standard t-shirt tucked into my pants, so probably not the greatest choice for trying on a jacket (collar/chest billowed out a bit), but didn't have a dress shirt on me. Unfortunately, there was no waist measurement I could find. Uniqlo lists their generic XS waist size as a 26-28, but I imagine this jacket is different consider the other compared dimensions (i.e., an XS is usually between a 32-35 inch chest while this fit up to 41 inches). And by the dynamic cut, you're referring to the Neo slim? And based on the shoulder fit, I'm guessing I should definitely grab the 38S in that case. Thanks!

 

[oucheebooboo]

Just a standard t-shirt tucked into my pants, so probably not the greatest choice for trying on a jacket (collar/chest billowed out a bit), but didn't have a dress shirt on me. Unfortunately, there was no waist measurement I could find. Uniqlo lists their generic XS waist size as a 26-28, but I imagine this jacket is different consider the other compared dimensions (i.e., an XS is usually between a 32-35 inch chest while this fit up to 41 inches). And by the dynamic cut, you're referring to the Neo slim? And based on the shoulder fit, I'm guessing I should definitely grab the 38S in that case. Thanks!

“Dynamic” was in reference to Neo styling in general (vs standard cuts). “Slim “ vs “contemporary” preferences are personal choices. You seem to fancy “slim” cuts, but depending on shoulders, contemporary may fit you better. Both are viable options.

Shoulder is the most important determinant. Chest measurements allow some variance, depending upon preferred drape/fit. If my shoulder measurement was truly 17”, and I had to choose just one to order, I’d probably look to the 36 contemporary coat. It’s a tiny bit shorter, and all measurements appear closer fitting for your body.

• Contemporary: 36 reg (40.2” chest—3.2” from your body measurement); 17.3” shoulder; 35.8” waist], or
• Slim: 38 reg (40.9”—3.9” from body measurements; 17.7” shoulder; 36.2” waist).

For your first purchase, as you are unsure, most (including yours truly) would recommend buying both and returning the least favored.

 

[jars_mcdad]

“Dynamic” was in reference to Neo styling in general (vs standard cuts). “Slim “ vs “contemporary” preferences are personal choices. You seem to fancy “slim” cuts, but depending on shoulders, contemporary may fit you better. Both are viable options.

Shoulder is the most important determinant. Chest measurements allow some variance, depending upon preferred drape/fit. If my shoulder measurement was truly 17”, and I had to choose just one to order, I’d probably look to the 36 contemporary coat. It’s a tiny bit shorter, and all measurements appear closer fitting for your body.

• Contemporary: 36 reg (40.2” chest—3.2” from your body measurement); 17.3” shoulder; 35.8” waist], or
• Slim: 38 reg (40.9”—3.9” from body measurements; 17.7” shoulder; 36.2” waist).

For your first purchase, as you are unsure, most (including yours truly) would recommend buying both and returning the least favored.

For comparison sake, I dug up an ancient jacket. Same shoulder measurements (18"), although obviously an extremely structured shoulder. 23" sleeve length, 28.5" back length, 40 inch chest. Still go for the regular, or go for the short length? I'll definitely get one of the contemporary and slim in those sizes

 

[oucheebooboo]

Sorry, I erred. I thought you had said you had 17-ish” shoulders. I now realize that you had stated 18”.

The 18” shoulder & 28.5” length measurements correspond to a 40 short. From the front, the jacket appears too short, w/ too high of a buttoning point (all have suffered from this this far); from the back, it’s better, but for me, also a touch short, (it’d be satisfactory for many). Know that the Neo, open-quarters styling will result in a jacket that appears shorter in front than standard fits.

Similarly, the jacket shoulders look ok from the front. From the back, they look awful: over-sized and ill-fitting; not very helpful in determining an appropriate S&M fit. (Understand that S&M’s otr, Neapolitan shoulders will be close fitting w/ little, if any padding.)

Which of the jackets you’ve tried do you feel fit best?

I’d purchase 2 slims, one 38 reg and one 38 short. (One will be a bit longer than those you have tried on; the other, a bit shorter.)

 

[jars_mcdad]

The black jacket was "tailored" to fit me (I use this term loosely, as it was done when I was back in high school, and I'm now an inch or two taller and 20-25lbs heavier). The shoulder padding is pretty substantial, compared to the gray one which was a completely unpadded shoulder. I'll try and make it back to see if I can get a picture of the gray one from the back to check the shoulder fit with less padding. I do have a Barbour jacket with a back length of 30", so I could check against that length wise. For t-shirts, I usually wear a small, and most of those feature shoulder measurements of under 18".