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Rhodia

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always cuff your trousers
Cuffs add weight that help the trousers drape correctly, especially with a fabric such as linen. Plus the suit is DB, which adds a certain formality.

Chris Pine's suit is sans cuff, but his trousers are also flat-front. This isn't a bad "vibe" but pleats and cuffs are functional, not simply a style choice.
 

gonnagetmine

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I think it would look good.

Turn up/cuffs to me look good on casual stuff. I don't like em when I see them on dark formal looking wool suits but for casual colors/tweeds/linens etc I think it's cool. The tobacco color and linen both add to the casual vibe so I think styling them with cuffs is completely in line.
I have 2" on my Natalino tobacco linen suit
 

tmckay2

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Thanks for the feedback. That plan makes sense if I was keeping this jacket. But sense I plan to order a custom, I am wondering if it is worth changing anything / possible to fix some of these small things like the dimple across the shoulder blades.
Ah I see. There are always a little bit of variation as other mentioned. I have a few 38r slim sportcoats and none of them fit EXACTLY the same. It's close enough I wouldn't quibble over details. Once you get the one you for sure want you can decide if you want to make slight changes besides sleeves but keep in mind 5 lbs gained or lost here or there might make minor alterations completely pointless. As that one fits I don't think anybody would say anything. Particularly when you walk, sit, move, etc you won't even be able to notice those minor issues.
 

gonnagetmine

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Recently picked up this 40s contemporary as a base to order a custom M2M off off. All in all I am very happy with the fit, but open to feedback. Couple of questions:

1) Any ideas on what I should adjust to get the pucker out from between the shoulder blades?

2) I notice that these Neapolitan jackets tend to poof off my shoulders rather than fall like a waterfall. Is that a size adjustment or just how the jacket is made? If I grab the sleeve opening and pull down slightly it falls like I want.
View attachment 2315747 View attachment 2315749 View attachment 2315751 View attachment 2315753 View attachment 2315755 View attachment 2315757 View attachment 2315759
I'd stick with that one rather than gamble on MTO. What measurements were you planning to alter?
 

kylebwells

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I'd stick with that one rather than gamble on MTO. What measurements were you planning to alter?
To be super clear: I am not even going with this fabric. I am in the market for a navy Hosack blazer. They’re all sold out in my size. So I ordered some jackets to figure out what size to use for the custom order. I was considering adjusting the shoulder slope and width a hair. But I’m wondering if that will help the dimple across the shoulder blades or if I need to expand the chest to chest slightly. I have a disproportionately large chest and shoulder blade circumference.
 

JohnE

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@SpierTeam I've got some questions on ordering. I need a 32.5" inseam. When I select plain hem, this is what I see:

1737128711832.png

When I select 2" cuff, it won't even go that high. Are they asking me to do math and subtract the hem from the inseam, bringing it to 30.5?

1737128762298.png
 

CLH03

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@SpierTeam I've got some questions on ordering. I need a 32.5" inseam. When I select plain hem, this is what I see:

View attachment 2315965
When I select 2" cuff, it won't even go that high. Are they asking me to do math and subtract the hem from the inseam, bringing it to 30.5?

View attachment 2315967
I think someone said many pages back that they tried to put 2” cuffs on some pants they have and the inseam wasn’t long enough to do so.

Im guessing that’s what’s happening here.
 

KlarkKent

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Does anyone have experience with this S&M tuxedo? I just found out I’ll need a tux in a month or so and I’m considering my options. https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/midnight-navy-barathea-8950-hr01t
No experience but the styling and value look great to me.

VBC Wool/Mohair 👍🏼
Padded shoulders/peak lapel 👍🏼
Barathea Weave 👍🏼
1 button 👍🏼
Side Adjusters 👍🏼

Given your short timing, if I were you and set on midnight navy I'd order a couple sizes in both slim and contemporary and keep the one that fit me best. Make sure to take the trousers unhemmed so you can return them and have your local tailor hem it.
 

Mr October

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Thank you for the advice, I think I will do exactly what you say--though I have S&M suits before and the 40 contemporary fits me pretty well, except in the sleeves which need to be shortened.
 

NORE

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NORE

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St1X

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Recently picked up this 40s contemporary as a base to order a custom M2M off off. All in all I am very happy with the fit, but open to feedback. Couple of questions:

1) Any ideas on what I should adjust to get the pucker out from between the shoulder blades?

2) I notice that these Neapolitan jackets tend to poof off my shoulders rather than fall like a waterfall. Is that a size adjustment or just how the jacket is made? If I grab the sleeve opening and pull down slightly it falls like I want.
View attachment 2315747 View attachment 2315749 View attachment 2315751 View attachment 2315753 View attachment 2315755 View attachment 2315757 View attachment 2315759
That looks like a shirred shoulder. They always look like this. The excess fabric has to go somewhere and it creates this effect of ropes shoulders. I really like it
 

kylebwells

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That looks like a shirred shoulder. They always look like this. The excess fabric has to go somewhere and it creates this effect of ropes shoulders. I really like it
True. I’ve just see the shirred shoulder fall something and create a roping poof sometimes. I’m wondering what accounts for the difference.
 

Gil_Pender

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@SpierTeam I've got some questions on ordering. I need a 32.5" inseam. When I select plain hem, this is what I see:

View attachment 2315965
When I select 2" cuff, it won't even go that high. Are they asking me to do math and subtract the hem from the inseam, bringing it to 30.5?

View attachment 2315967
I think the majority of S&M trousers are 37" unfinished. To get 2" cuffs with a 32.5" inseam would be at the limit and likely not something they'd offer due to tolerances.
 
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